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Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

Schwerin

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I'll mention a couple of things for thought.

I noticed the new filter end is stamped with "DOWN." Why?

down filter.JPG


Anyone also notice the new throttle body has part number KR3E-9F991-AB stamped on the side when the kit states M-9926-M50B?

What's this part number.JPG
M-9926-M50B is the Ford Performance Part Number.
KR3E-9F991-AB is the Ford Parts Part Number.

Look at the top of the filter, its notched, so it can only fit into some applications in a specific orientation. Also look at there the metal Pleet join is in the filter, having that piece where air is NOT coming is makes the filter more efficient since it doesn't have a bar blocking/disturbing air flow.
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Meatball

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I'll mention a couple of things for thought.

I noticed the new filter end is stamped with "DOWN." Why?

down filter.JPG


Anyone also notice the new throttle body has part number KR3E-9F991-AB stamped on the side when the kit states M-9926-M50B?

What's this part number.JPG


MY BULLSHIT OPINIONS BELOW

I've had many cars with 400+hp, but all had throttle cables. Those cars always gave the maximum of what they could at any time. This Mustang feels less lively but would slaughter my old cars, just looking at any timeslip.

Post-install it feels much more responsive. This cannot be because of a minor +5% hp bump. Ford must have made sure the base tune did not give as much torque as was possible at low RPM, and now it gives more.

With the tune it feels more like a throttle-cable operated car. This, of course, should not have cost $1,000. I do like the ProCal as a datalogger and code puller/clearer. It lives in the glove box.
I don’t have it on anymore, but when I had PP3 on my 17, I couldn’t nail the throttle in low gear - low rpm without spinning the tires or TC flashing and the throttle cutting. Stock it just hooked and launched on my base model 235 all-seasons, and my kids in the back would love it. PP3 for the 15-17 was advertised as 405 ft-lbs (crank) vs 400 stock, so that wasn’t it. They just allow the engine (throttle, likely) to make its torque at low rpm in low gear vs stock, = the claim of a big hp increase down there. I’m guessing the 18+ FP tune is the same in that way, makes the car feel stronger just because it was held back before.
 

Schwerin

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I don’t have it on anymore, but when I had PP3 on my 17, I couldn’t nail the throttle in low gear - low rpm without spinning the tires or TC flashing and the throttle cutting. Stock it just hooked and launched on my base model 235 all-seasons, and my kids in the back would love it. PP3 for the 15-17 was advertised as 405 ft-lbs (crank) vs 400 stock, so that wasn’t it. They just allow the engine (throttle, likely) to make its torque at low rpm in low gear vs stock, = the claim of a big hp increase down there. I’m guessing the 18+ FP tune is the same in that way, makes the car feel stronger just because it was held back before.
What does Peak numbers have to do with low RPM? You do know that you can gain like 30FTlbs at low RPM but only gain like 5-10 peak right? It's called a POWER BAND. There is a LOT more to it than just "tweaking how open the throttle is" there is multiple timing maps, air/fuel ratios, dialing back knock and how sensitive the limited slip is.
 

spaz mk will

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It’s really obvious why there is more low end torque: it’s a 91+ tune. Therefore FRPP can always use more aggressive timing at low rpm, which gives you more torque. It says +40 lb-ft at 2,000 RPM right in the marketing material. It’s less that they held back the car from the factory, and more that they have to account for any and all flavors of octane, summer/winter blend, etc across the country (and yes international gets a different tune I would imagine) and still make their advertised power and fuel economy numbers (roughly). Those constraints are why the factory tune is what it is: less aggressive timing to avoid knock.
 

Meatball

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It’s really obvious why there is more low end torque: it’s a 91+ tune. Therefore FRPP can always use more aggressive timing at low rpm, which gives you more torque. It says +40 lb-ft at 2,000 RPM right in the marketing material. It’s less that they held back the car from the factory, and more that they have to account for any and all flavors of octane, summer/winter blend, etc across the country (and yes international gets a different tune I would imagine) and still make their advertised power and fuel economy numbers (roughly). Those constraints are why the factory tune is what it is: less aggressive timing to avoid knock.
I would guess that you’re right, but I’d also guess it’s more than Knock avoidance with all the crappy gas the first global Mustang is likely to see. I think their TC “on” strategy on the stock tune holds back quite a bit to avoid excessive wheelspin at low rpm, maybe especially for base model owners who have the 235 m+s tires. It was that way with my car. I suspect FP lets the car cut loose a little more at low rpm. It was also that way in my otherwise identical car with PP3, the tires would light up more easily.

my point about the torque is the torque curve is similar between the 15-17 stock tune and with PP3 installed, until high rpm. But I personally noticed different behavior at low rpm, and Im guessing it’s more than just knock avoidance on crappy gas. I don’t have a log on my stock tune to see if that’s true (probably mostly by artificially cutting throttle a bit, sorry, and everything else like timing following suit). I’ll bet the 18+ tune sees a similar strategy compared to stock which is why it feels stronger at low rpm. But I’m only speculating, I could be totally wrong.
 

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bigmixx

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I've had a few weeks with this kit now and I love it. The car is much more fun to drive. The low end torque bump and throttle response increase was worth the cost. I think people make a big deal of increased IAT's but I don't notice any difference in performance when my IAT's are up or normal. I'm in Georgia and on the warmest days the car still hauls....
 

D Bergstrom

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Installed my kit today. Install was pretty simple, don't really have anything to add to cmxPPL219's write up, he pretty much covered it and then some. The only thing I will add is the instructions say to torque the throttle body bolts to 62 in/lbs, then go 60 degrees. I only went about 45, just felt that anymore I was going to risk snapping a bolt. I also had the Ford Performance oil separator installed and I removed it before installing. Ordered the JLT remote separator, should be here later this week and will get it installed next weekend. I had 2,418 miles on the car when I removed the separator, I installed it when I had 150 miles or so, it already had a 1/4" of oil in the bottom. Other then that, everything went exactly has cmxPPL219 said. Total time for the install, test drive, and cleanup was just over two hours. I already had the sound tube removed, so I am sure that saved me 30 minutes or so messing with that thing.

Only took it for about a 15 minute drive, but definitely noticed an improvement. I take a right on the main street after I leave my neighborhood and after the 1st to 2nd shift, I usually stomp it to the floor. This time I did it and the rear end broke loose a little, never done that before! As others have said, it is just smoother and throttle response is greatly improved.

I know some have mentioned "rev hang" on upshifts with the stock tune. I have always noticed that my 1st to 2nd shift and especially the 2nd to 3rd shifts are rough. I just figured I forgot how to shift! First thing I noticed after the install was upshifts were now as smooth as can be. Guess I didn't forget how to shift.

So far, very happy with the kit, looking forward to putting some miles on it!

Doug

1.jpg
 
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Dave2013M3

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Installed my kit today. Install was pretty simple, don't really have anything to add to cmxPPL219's write up, he pretty much covered it and then some. The only thing I will add is the instructions say to torque the throttle body bolts to 62 in/lbs, then go 60 degrees. I only went about 45, just felt that anymore I was going to risk snapping a bolt. I also had the Ford Performance oil separator installed and I removed it before installing. Ordered the JLT remote separator, should be here later this week and will get it installed next weekend. I had 2,418 miles on the car when I removed the separator, I installed it when I had 150 miles or so, it already had a 1/4" of oil in the bottom. Other then that, everything went exactly has cmxPPL219 said. Total time for the install, test drive, and cleanup was just over two hours. I already had the sound tube removed, so I am sure that saved me 30 minutes or so messing with that thing.

Only took it for about a 15 minute drive, but definitely noticed an improvement. I take a right on the main street after I leave my neighborhood and after the 1st to 2nd shift, I usually stomp it to the floor. This time I did it and the rear end broke loose a little, never done that before! As others have said, it is just smoother and throttle response is greatly improved.

I know some have mentioned "rev hang" on upshifts with the stock tune. I have always noticed that my 1st to 2nd shift and especially the 2nd to 3rd shifts are rough. I just figured I forgot how to shift! First thing I noticed after the install was upshifts were now as smooth as can be. Guess I didn't forget how to shift.

So far, very happy with the kit, looking forward to putting some miles on it!

Doug

1.jpg
Congrats, very happy with this kit for over a year now
 

smoke_wagon_6g

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Presses where the hood vent is not, just in front of it.
I chalked the air box rubber, closed the hood and here's the location.

They missed the vent. Decent seal anyway. The air comes in behind the grille just fine, don't really need the vent. Only gap seems to be at that push pin.

The red circle is where the relocated vacuum elbow presses and puts stress on it. I had to cut that liner out right there with a razor blade.

E5AF1DB7-B441-4100-B834-0AC1F06AE378.jpeg
 

bigmixx

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I chalked the air box rubber, closed the hood and here's the location.

They missed the vent. Decent seal anyway. The air comes in behind the grille just fine, don't really need the vent. Only gap seems to be at that push pin.

The red circle is where the relocated vacuum elbow presses and puts stress on it. I had to cut that liner out right there with a razor blade.

E5AF1DB7-B441-4100-B834-0AC1F06AE378.jpeg
I assume missing the vent is good thing right?
 

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kiksbutt

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Sorry if this was asked and I'm sure it was but did anyone confirm if this voids the powertrain warranty after the 3/36 is over?
 

Dave2013M3

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I assume missing the vent is good thing right?

That hood vent is a form of heat extraction and pressure release when the car is at speed. It was never meant to be a duct for the intake. So yes a good thing.
 

Dave2013M3

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I chalked the air box rubber, closed the hood and here's the location.

They missed the vent. Decent seal anyway. The air comes in behind the grille just fine, don't really need the vent. Only gap seems to be at that push pin.

The red circle is where the relocated vacuum elbow presses and puts stress on it. I had to cut that liner out right there with a razor blade.

E5AF1DB7-B441-4100-B834-0AC1F06AE378.jpeg

Exactly, I don't feel there is any hot air getting into the intake from the seal on the hood. Its coming from the much thinner plastic of the CAI than the factory piece. I didn't cut the hood liner there, I don't think its causing any issues with the vacuum line. I will say, seeing the new Mach 1 I wonder if that tube can be used for us with our kit.
 

Dave2013M3

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Hey everyone, I just wanted to give everyone an update. I just finished my install of the 4"-8" screen conversion along with the working drive modes. I originally had a 300a car with the 4" screen and no drive modes. The PowerKit made the throttle response better even without the drive modes due to the fact of the lower low end torque that is available and maybe a slight throttle remap with the kit.

Now that the 8" screen conversion is in the drive mode works (thanks to Tom Hextall for all his help) the drive modes are icing on the cake. My car doesn't have active exhaust, but it does have the Borla Switchfire and the Ford Racing by Borla mufflers. When the car is in Track Mode now it has a wonderful burble upon downshifting or upshifting when under load. Now the throttle response almost feels telepathic with the Power Kit. I am so happy with this kit.
 

bigmixx

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Sorry if this was asked and I'm sure it was but did anyone confirm if this voids the powertrain warranty after the 3/36 is over?
I've seen some say it does and some says it does not. The way I interpret it is after the 3/36 is over that's it. No more warranty period.
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