First disaster - snapped hood bolt

[michail71]

The dealer didn't even want to give me a quote on fixing this. They just said they don't want to do it.

They also scratched the interior some doing interior fixes. It's going back again tomorrow to get the scratches and and broken parts fixed.

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[Silver Bullitt]

The dealer didn't even want to give me a quote on fixing this. They just said they don't want to do it.

They also scratched the interior some doing interior fixes. It's going back again tomorrow to get the scratches and and broken parts fixed.

I think I'd try a different dealer or a well respected body shop. Hopefully it doesn't take a new hood.

 

[GT Pony]

Just installed my Steeda hood strut kit. You may have been relying on youtube videos which all say 17 ft-lbs., but the instructions (see below) actually show 10-12 ft-lbs. for 2018 models.

CAUTION: For anyone installing a hood strut kit on a 2018 model, most youtube videos say to tighten the hood bracket nut to 17 ft-lbs. The correct torque is 10-12 ft-lbs.

Ford must have decreased the diameter of the hood studs on the 2018s, or did the stud diameter remain the same as the 2015~2017s and Ford decreased the torque value? The stud on the 2015~2017 Mustangs look pretty small already.

When I installed a Ford strut tower brace on my 2015, I didn't use the full torque called out in the service manual because some guys were snapping those studs off too using the torque specified by Ford. I used 30 ft-lbs when the service manual calls out 41 ft-lbs.

 

[michail71]

Ford must have decreased the diameter of the hood studs on the 2018s, or did the stud diameter remain the same as the 2015~2107s and Ford decreased the torque value? The stud on the 2015~2017 Mustangs look pretty small already.

When I installed a Ford strut tower brace on my 2015, I didn't use the full torque called out in the service manual because some guys were snapping those studs off too using the torque specified by Ford. I used 30 ft-lbs when the service manual calls out 41 ft-lbs.

I did the strut tower too. The Steeda instructions called for 35 ft lbs on all 8 bolts.

I forget if was the painted or unpainted studs but they were very tight from the factory. I think it was the unpainted ones that were extra tight.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Ford must have decreased the diameter of the hood studs on the 2018s, or did the stud diameter remain the same as the 2015~2107s and Ford decreased the torque value? The stud on the 2015~2017 Mustangs look pretty small already.

When I installed a Ford strut tower brace on my 2015, I didn't use the full torque called out in the service manual because some guys were snapping those studs off too using the torque specified by Ford. I used 30 ft-lbs when the service manual calls out 41 ft-lbs.

I haven't seen an earlier model year, but it's ridiculous how small they are on the 2018's.

 

[Sig556]

notch the remaining bolt with a dremel. The just use a flat head screw driver. Dont over think it.

That would be great idea, if it was a bolt and not a hood stud.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Keep an eye out on eBay or salvage yard and just buy a matching hood.

 

[Nanashii]

The dealer didn't even want to give me a quote on fixing this. They just said they don't want to do it.

They also scratched the interior some doing interior fixes. It's going back again tomorrow to get the scratches and and broken parts fixed.

I would have been surprised if they did try to fix something like this.

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

If it is indeed a stud...don't know, never looked at mine I think I know what I would do considering all the posts here. Take the hood off, lay it upside down on saw horses and a soft blanket. If the area where the stud is is hollow and has no surrounding depth in metal drill it out completely, fill the hole with JB Weld and drop a new stud in there or cut the head off a bolt and make your own stud. Make sure the JB Weld is leveled up to the edge of the hood and leave it set up for 24 hours.

It may take a couple of JB Weld applications as it likes to drift some. Wrap the threaded area of the stud that will stick out of the hood with masking tape to keep the JB Weld from getting on the threads. Also, be careful not to drill too far or let the bit break through and damage the opposite side of the hood.

 

[michail71]

I would have been surprised if they did try to fix something like this.

Yeah, I visited 3 body shops today and all 3 were very helpful but didn't want to risk doing the job. They all seemed shocked by the hood design. I was quoted $1400 by one shop to replace the whole hood.

What I don't understand is why something like a toggle bolt or the Steeda lower bracket bolts wouldn't work as a repair.

At this point just leaving it be and returning the strut kit seems like the best option.

 

[Braski]

Why would you use a torque wrench? It's not a head bolt. A little thread-lock and tighten just enough.

Exactly!

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

I just posted a solution for you about an hour ago :headbonk:

 

[control4userguy]

^That stud job will get torqued right out of the JB Weld for sure.

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

I've been a tech for 35 years and have used JB Weld in a pinch many times. You are wrong ^ and I know it. I could see if it were a nut that gets torqued to 60+ ft lbs then I would agree but a hood bolt or nut is pushed just beyond snug and that's all. You'd be surprised at some of the fixes that have been done with that stuff.

 

[control4userguy]

^Easy. I was being facetious. I highly doubt OP wants to go to that trouble considering the damage done in the first place.

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