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Engine Tick Preventive Measures

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Hey, which year is your car? And where do you live? And yes, change the cap, like I did :D (pic below).


Indeed, since both are 5W when cold. That almost proves Ford is using something else than 5/20 as a factory fill. Hmmm. I'm going to use M1 0W30, and see what happens. And no, I didn't find a 0w30 cap, or I'd have bought that instead. Ha ha.

Bullitt 5-30 oil.webp


As a closing thought, I really hope I don't have to use any freaking oil additives, because those are NOT approved anywhere. And at least in the case of Ceratec, it'd be absolutely obvious there's something in the oil, due to its creamy color. Not good.
2019, Ontario Canada.

Although the tick is barely noticeable and intermittent, thinking I will do the 30 weight next change. Like you said... see what happens

I also agree with your statement:
“That almost proves Ford is using something else than 5/20 as a factory fill.”

Bikerman was right, I was looking at the wrong damn page
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IrishStallion

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I have 10k miles on 18 gen3. Car was whisper quiet until 2200-2400 miles and cold tick started on occasion. Did first change 3400 again 5900 miles no difference. Been running 5w-30 since 9600 miles and tick on cold start is very minimal if any. My advice is get over it. Car burns zero oil and rips with nearly all those miles on E85 tune. Next....
 

Elp_jc

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The good news if the tick starts all of a sudden after an oil change, is that it's practically impossible to be something detrimental, since it wouldn't coincide with an oil change. But I'm sure the difference in oils used is causing it to surface. Hence the question many of us are asking: What exactly does Ford use? Many manufacturers add stuff to the oil, and call it a 'break-in oil'. But apparently Ford doesn't do that. At any rate, if it starts all of a sudden, my guess is excessive side-to-side connecting rod clearance, which has been discussed in a thread linked somewhere. Thinner oil apparently makes it easier to surface, but it's a defect that shouldn't be there. It reportedly doesn't cause long-term issues, but it can't be called 'normal'. It might not have a detrimental effect on the engine, but no way I'd like to live with it.

Bottom line is if my car 'develops' it even with M1 0/30, I'd try to get rid of it with M1 0/40 first, and if not successful, then reluctantly try Ceratec with M1 0/30. If still unsuccessful, I'd try a buy-back, and probably move to something else. I had to sell my 2018 F-150 due to 3.5EB cam phaser issues (the 5.0s were having even more issues than 3.5EBs), lost my a$$ on the trade for the Bullitt, since I didn't want to deal with the massive dismantling to fix it. But that's the last chance I'll give Ford. Hope this car doesn't disappoint me, because I really like it, and want to keep it for a while. We'll see :).
 

Mustang5ohMan

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You really should be using the highest octane you can at the pump, the cost savings of using 87 aren't worthwhile especially if you live in a hot climate or it's summer in a northern climate. The car will pull crazy levels of timing as the guy above said. I don't think it will cause damage but it will just make shit for power.

Also, I get why people are concerned about engine noises, but I've noticed that the majority of newer DI engines from all brands are just noisy as hell. My VW 2.0 was clattery and there was nothing wrong with it.

My whole debate with the gas issue is why would Ford recommend 87 in the manual if you couldn’t use it?
 

Rapid Red

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Aluminum blocks do not muffle, absorb the international sounds like iron.

"My whole debate with the gas issue is why would Ford recommend 87 in the manual if you couldn’t use it?"

My question is who would want to use it?
 

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Mustang5ohMan

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Aluminum blocks do not muffle, absorb the international sounds like iron.

"My whole debate with the gas issue is why would Ford recommend 87 in the manual if you couldn’t use it?"

My question is who would want to use it?
for me it’s not about the cost savings. Although I’m sure it does add it my last Cars took 93... however to end all the debate and issue the manual should remove it altogether or suggest that you run it in a pinch if something else is not available the way it reads is that you can use it regularly.
 

Bikeman315

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for me it’s not about the cost savings. Although I’m sure it does add it my last Cars took 93... however to end all the debate and issue the manual should remove it altogether or suggest that you run it in a pinch if something else is not available the way it reads is that you can use it regularly.
Why oh why is this an issue again? And why on an engine tick thread. Both of these have been discussed to death and will never ever be resolved to everyone’s satisfaction.

The tick is there on every engine, every single one of them, from the beginning. Most are inaudible, some are mild, some are noisy. Ford says it’s normal so you’re not going to get anything more from them. If you hear it and are bothered by it there are things you can try to lessen it. It’s been three years on the gen 3 and no one has pinpointed a specific issue yet.

And another quick note on gas. Ford, the company that makes the car and warranties the engine for 50,000 miles does not recommend 87. They say that it’s the lowest octane gas that can be used without damage to the car. They recommend 91 for max performance. Considering the engine produces 460 HP that should tell you everything you need to know. You can use whatever you’re comfortable with.
 
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Rapid Red

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for me it’s not about the cost savings. Although I’m sure it does add it my last Cars took 93... however to end all the debate and issue the manual should remove it altogether or suggest that you run it in a pinch if something else is not available the way it reads is that you can use it regularly.
Trying to imagine that scenario.
 

Mustang5ohMan

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Why oh why is this an issue again? And why on an engine tick thread. Both of these have been discussed to death and will never ever be resolved to everyone’s satisfaction.

The tick is there on every engine, every single one of them, from the beginning. Most are inaudible, some are mild, some are noisy. Ford says it’s normal so you’re not going to get anything more from them. If you hear it and are bothered by it there are things you can try to lessen it. It’s been three years on the gen 3 and no one has pinpointed a specific issue yet.

And another quick note on gas. Ford, the company that makes the car and warranties the engine for 50,000 miles does not recommend 87. They say that it’s the lowest octane gas that can be used without damage to the car. They recommend 91 for max performance. Considering the engine produces 460 HP that should tell you everything you need to know. You can use whatever you’re comfortable with.



The gas discussion came about with the engine tick if you read back and not just the first post.
Did you read through the whole thread before you replied?
Horsepower has nothing to do with what type of fuel to use as a general statement. Either way I’m not here to argue about gas and what I use or what you use... we all who drive these cars will use whatever we want to use...

Trying to imagine that scenario.
it’s not that hard to imagine, read it in other owners Manuals before.
 

Bikeman315

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The gas discussion came about with the engine tick if you read back and not just the first post.
Did you read through the whole thread before you replied?
Did you see the second post? I've been on here since the beginning. I wasn't referring just to your response but also to the ones that started it. This was a tick thread, not a gas thread. We already have a ton of those.

Horsepower has nothing to do with what type of fuel to use as a general statement.
You missed the point. We have a high performance, high compression engine. Ford is recommending premium for max performance 1 + 1 = 2.
 

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RalphK

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Of the three 5.0’s I own ranging in age from 2016 to 2020, All make varying degree of noise especially when cold.
My 80,000 mile 5.0 doesn’t burn a 1/2 quart of oil in 8000 miles. It’s always had the 2K rattle when cold if you modulate the pedal.
I think a lot of people are getting worked up over nothing more than normal noises these engines make.
 

Rapid Red

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it’s not that hard to imagine, read it in other owners Manuals before.
I was talking about not being able to fine high test.

But I'll say thanks for telling me something I already knew & was not posting about.
LMAO
 
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Elp_jc

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I can't find 93 anywhere close to where I live. The closest place I remember is Fredericksburg TX, which is exactly 500 miles away from my house. My question is how much less power does the Coyote make with 91 over 93? Just curious. And yes, I'm aware I'm losing about 3% for every 1K of my 4K' of altitude, which is probably the reason no 93 is available here.
 

IronG

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Change the oil at 200 miles, then again at 600 miles and then at 2k. Use the MC blend oil and MC filter. Check the catch pan on the first change and look at the metal particles in the bottom. You will be amazed that this crud is flowing throughout the motor.The little factory installed filter is one inch shorter that the FL500 replacement. Don't know why. Finally break in the engine correctly and let it cold start idle for a few minutes until the engine note changes indicating that the oil pressure has reached the top of the motor. You can hear it change to a more quiet note.
You really should not be saying you will see large pieces of metal fragments, especially in the catch can. If you are seeing that you probably broke something. Maybe you are just overexaggerating or meant to say there was oil in the catch can?

I changed mine at ~1000 miles to 5w-30 only because I track it and I do not drive it in the winter. There is nothing in the oil that I could see. Used a magnet and it probably picked up something, but nothing big enough that would be visible to the naked eye. The filter had some tiny specks (guess metal but nothing stuck to a magnet), that is about it. If I were not going to track it, I would have waited until 5k to change or a year (in my case it would have been about 3k.
 

ice445

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I can't find 93 anywhere close to where I live. The closest place I remember is Fredericksburg TX, which is exactly 500 miles away from my house. My question is how much less power does the Coyote make with 91 over 93? Just curious. And yes, I'm aware I'm losing about 3% for every 1K of my 4K' of altitude, which is probably the reason no 93 is available here.
The difference is pretty negligible at sea level unless it's extremely hot outside and you're pushing the car hard for long periods. Most people don't realize this but altitude in itself is an octane booster. Less oxygen molecules to combust effectively raises the octane of a fuel slightly. That's why most rocky mountain states have 91 only.
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