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Broken crankshaft

SolarFlare

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Stuffs pricey. Some shops and Erik from Procharger itself like the IW. Some of the guys here and a good buddy of mine that’s a Ford asset instructor like the ATI design. If I’m not mistaken what has bit some people is that fit of the ATI onto the crank, clearances are iffy and if not checked/remedied it leads to people thinking the balancer is fully seated when it’s not. Maybe this is why people tend to suggest IW. I only got the IW because that’s what came on the support kit I picked up used, if I was buying new I likely would have gone ATI.
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TRP45ACP

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Thank you Solar Flare. I watched a video on Youtube last night by a guy with the same name (Solar Flare 5.0) that I am assuming is you. Good video and appreciate your willingness to talk through your logic. I wish I had a good used hookup as you did. Regardless, willing to spend the money for piece of mind. If buying new, why would you choose ATI if the clearances can be iffy if you don't mind me asking? Maybe its just a matter of installing is competently as the directions suggest :). Then it shouldn't be an issue. I am missing anything parts wise? thx
 

SolarFlare

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Thank you Solar Flare. I watched a video on Youtube last night by a guy with the same name (Solar Flare 5.0) that I am assuming is you. Good video and appreciate your willingness to talk through your logic. I wish I had a good used hookup as you did. Regardless, willing to spend the money for piece of mind. If buying new, why would you choose ATI if the clearances can be iffy if you don't mind me asking? Maybe its just a matter of installing is competently as the directions suggest :). Then it shouldn't be an issue. I am missing anything parts wise? thx
correct it is me. Just a matter of patience when it comes to the coyote game, might not be the same as other platforms, but the aftermarket is so large when it comes to coyotes that if you just sit tight most parts will come up for sale. And being real, a nobody like me with a day job will never be the first to achieve anything and even if I did someone else will come a week later with more money and do it better, so I settle for doing it cheaper and at my pace.

Seems like the ATI, again, based on design seems to perform its primary job better based on some knowledgeable opinions, and that’s balancing. and to compound that it also seems to be lighter than it’s competitor. So only thing left to consider is price, and at less than $100 bucks it seems like the way to go to get a potentially better AND lighter part.

as far as clearances, a knowledgeable installer will double check those and assure a proper install.
 
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TGGT

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I’ve been trying to decide on the ati vs the Iw as well, but I think I will be going with the ati. I’m sure both do a great job and both will work with the crank support which for me is the most important piece of the puzzle at this point.
 

TRP45ACP

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That very well may be the case. In any event, adding an additional bearing on the end of the crank in addition to the kinetic crank stud certainly helps.
I just pulled the trigger on the ATI setup from Brutespeed as Procharger suggested. Bob was great to work with and provided free shipping and discounted pricing compared to the typical parts shops that are popular on this forum.
 

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TGGT

TGGT

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That very well may be the case. In any event, adding an additional bearing on the end of the crank in addition to the kinetic crank stud certainly helps.
I just pulled the trigger on the ATI setup from Brutespeed as Procharger suggested. Bob was great to work with and provided free shipping and discounted pricing compared to the typical parts shops that are popular on this forum.
Good to know. I may reach out to him as well. Trying to save as much as I can
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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OP, was that MMR TG?
Stock tg. Boundry opg. I’m not going to re use the Opg’s. I’ll probably be going with the black gears and I’ve had a a billet cs sitting on my tool box that I’ll be using
 
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K4fxd

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I wonder if the predator crank has a stronger snout?

The other thing I wonder about is if you used a cogged belt would that help from less loading?
 

80FoxCoupe

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I wonder if the predator crank has a stronger snout?

The other thing I wonder about is if you used a cogged belt would that help from less loading?
Predator crank is made of a stronger steel vs gt/boss crank.
 

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TGGT

TGGT

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Predator crank is made of a stronger steel vs gt/boss crank.
Does it work with the 5.0 block? Or would it need to be used with a predator block?
 

80FoxCoupe

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Does it work with the 5.0 block? Or would it need to be used with a predator block?
Predator crank can be used in any 5.2 or 5.0 block. A 5.2 specific rod (.8281 pin bore, smaller than coyote) and 5.2 specific piston (1.155 comp height, shorter than coyote) will need to be used. Be sure to run thick wall wrist pins on boosted setups when going this route.
 

Jackson1320

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You pay $1900 and get $1900 worth of product. Doesn't make it dirt cheap, lol.
Call up a engine builder and tell them that you want a brand new coyote shortblock for $1900 and see if you find anything. Good luck
$1900 is dirt cheap. A gen2 shortblock was over $1000 more. You are getting a lot more than $1900 worth of product
 
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turnswrench

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Call up a engine builder and tell them that you want a brand new coyote shortblock for $1900 and see if you find anything. Good luck
$1900 is dirt cheap. A gen2 shortblock was over $1000 more. You are getting a lot more than $1900 worth of product
Face palm. There's a massive difference in a stock short block and a built short block, same for the capability. You get what you pay for.
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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Ordered a bunch of stuff from Ford this morning. Stock gen3 short block, head,exhaust,oil pan,valve cover, and timing cover gaskets. New timing chains and tensioners and a couple of other random things. So far at $2’300 ish. Still have to order the crank support, balancer, stage2 pulley, crank stud, and head studs. And I still have to pay to get the heads fixed, so I figure I’ll be at least another $2’500. Not a cheap fix by any means, but it is what it is.
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