BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

[spogshd]

Okay quick update after putting the shells back in and fastening everything back up. Filled up with oil, no plugs in and took the fuse out so it could be turned over to pump the oil through, put the fuse and plugs back, started it up and i kid you not no tick not even after 30 mins running. Work that one out.
Maybe you need to pump the oil round after an oil change without starting it. Would be good if someone else who has the tick do the same.
So I don't know if we can rule out the bottom end or not now
Its almost like it needs bleeding or priming.

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[Semnole]

Awesome!

 

[GT Pony]

Okay quick update after putting the shells back in and fastening everything back up. Filled up with oil, no plugs in and took the fuse out so it could be turned over to pump the oil through, put the fuse and plugs back, started it up and i kid you not no tick not even after 30 mins running. Work that one out.
Maybe you need to pump the oil round after an oil change without starting it. Would be good if someone else who has the tick do the same.
So I don't know if we can rule out the bottom end or not now

That definitely is strange behavior. I don't think cranking the engine to prime the engine with oil made the difference. When an oil change is done, there is still a good film of oil everywhere including inside the journal bearings, and the positive displacement oil pump will get oil to the engine in a second or two max.

I wonder if disassembly and reassembly changed the clearance on something ... doesn't seem possible based on how the rod caps are a fracture broken design. I sure hope all the rod caps where put back in the exact same location they came off, as that's very important with fracture broken rod caps.

What oil brand and viscosity was put back in the engine?

 

[spogshd]

This was before the shells came out.

 

[spogshd]

They all went back as they came out for sure. The crank was pushed back and forth to measure the end play and everything cleaned and put back together. The same oil went back in that came out 5w 30.
Ill get a vid on monday of how it sounds now as want to run it on the road to make sure its still okay but first start up was encouraging.

 

[GT Pony]

This was before the shells came out.

Yes, strange indeed. Maybe some of the rod caps weren't torqued down right, and the disassemble and reassembly cured something. It has to be something associated with the rods since that's the only thing they tore apart, right?

 

[Cobra Jet]

Yes, strange indeed. Maybe some of the rod caps weren't torqued down right, and the disassemble and reassembly cured something. It has to be something associated with the rods since that's the only thing they tore apart, right?

I was thinking the same thing, which brings to question:

What IS the proper torque specs to those specific parts? It’s quite possible that however the Coyote is assembled, that either manual (human) or mechanical (robotics) torquing of the parts is out of spec...

I’d be curious to know the torque specs of those parts before disassembly.

———

Off topic, but sort of on regarding internal engine torque specs... years ago, the E36 BMW M3 had issues with the internal oil pump nut becoming loose and letting go, which would in some instances cause catastrophic engine failures. Even though the nut was torqued to specs by initial assembly, the natural vibrations and harmonics of the engine made the nut loose over time. The fix was to wire tie the nut.

So, I can really see that IF there are improper internal torque specs OR harmonics causing hardware to become loose where it could lead to catastrophic engine failures (with no real way of knowing it was hardware torque related after parts are blown through everything).

Just something to think about....

 

[GT Pony]

What IS the proper torque specs to those specific parts? It’s quite possible that however the Coyote is assembled, that either manual (human) or mechanical (robotics) torquing of the parts is out of spec...

The manual says:
Stage 1: 177 lb.in (20 Nm)
Stage 2: 28 lb.ft (38 Nm)
Stage 3: 105°

I'm assuming the 105° means to turn them another 105° (3/10 of a turn) after torquing them to 28 ft-lbs in Stage 2. It also says to use new rod cap bolts, so apparently they are a one time stretch use kind of bolt.

 

[spogshd]

Stage 1: 177 lb.in (20 Nm)

Would that be 17 lb
I will report back tomorrow after the car has been driven. I was thinking of dumping in the cere tec with the owners permission.

 

[GT Pony]

Would that be 17 lb
I will report back tomorrow after the car has been driven. I was thinking of dumping in the cere tec with the owners permission.

177 lb.in = 14.75 lb.ft

If it was my car I think I'd just let it go without the Cera Tec to see if thr tick comes back. Save the Cera Tec for later if needed.

Please let us know what the engine inspector's report concluded on all the bottom end measurements that were done.

 

[accel]

So I don't know if we can rule out the bottom end or not now
Its almost like it needs bleeding or priming.

Sounds more like proper assembly fixes it.

How difficult would it be to get to the bottom and re-torque?

I mean, if one cannot convince dealership/ford to do the job, maybe it makes sense to visit some independent shop to get there, re-measure and re-torque?

 

[scotty]

An update - Added half a bottle of Ceratec after an oil change a week and half ago, still quiet..no tick. I've also been to the drag strip twice since then, about 8 to 10 runs each time... Still no tick and I swear the engine feels like it is running a lot quieter and smoother, but that could just be in my head because I'm not listening for the tick anymore.

 

[spogshd]

After running the car for a while the tick did return so back to square one where we started.
What we did notice was that the tick was intermittent every 4 or 5 seconds but when the air con was switched on it became constant.
Could this be anything to do with the balancer, we have a spare one so will change it tomorrow.
when you get a new short block does it come with a balancer or do you transfer the original one.

 

[Toro73]

Well that sucks ….

 

[Gearhead82]

After running the car for a while the tick did return so back to square one where we started.
What we did notice was that the tick was intermittent every 4 or 5 seconds but when the air con was switched on it became constant.
Could this be anything to do with the balancer, we have a spare one so will change it tomorrow.
when you get a new short block does it come with a balancer or do you transfer the original one.

It also could just be that the ac puts a small load on the engine which effects the ticking. Are you auto or manual? If manual you could try keeping the ebrake on in first gear and just barely let the clutch out at idle until there’s a slight drag and see if it effects the ticking in the same manner as the ac being on.

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