Are my nuts too tight?

[Performance nut]

I've anyways torqued my lug nuts on the ground. Was told since my studs and stud nuts are coated, they need to be torqued in the air. I realize they use a lower torque than uncoated but torquing them with no load seems counterintuitive.

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[2018OFPP1?2]

I always snug my nuts in the air, then finish the job on the ground

 

[mrgooden]

If you torque 150 FT pounds in the air, it is 150 FT lbs on the ground...

Richard

 

[Epiphany]

We are lost.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I snug them in the air and then roll the car a few feet on the ground after lowering to release most of the preload on the tires from the suspension movement when lowering. Then tighten on the ground to spec.

That seems to give consistent torques that last. No need to check again after driving or anything, they’re always fine.

Fwiw my front studs are coated so I’m also using a bit less torque too.

 

[Ewheels]

Was told since my studs and stud nuts are coated, they need to be torqued in the air.

This sounds like it would have come from the type of person who looks at an engine bay, points at the alternator, and says "nice turbo."

 

[Bikeman315]

Fwiw my front studs are coated so I’m also using a bit less torque too.

The coating is for reduced corrosion. Unless specifically told not to you should still torque to the manufacturers specification.

 

[K4fxd]

I'll usually hit them with the impact using a 150 ft/lb torque stick while in the air.

Tools like this only mine are snap-on

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Color-Co...?keywords=torque+sticks&qid=1654621229&sr=8-7

 

[NightmareMoon]

The coating is for reduced corrosion. Unless specifically told not to you should still torque to the manufacturers specification.

In my case, yes, I’m using the correct torque for my application.

 

[DrZed]

If you torque 150 FT pounds in the air, it is 150 FT lbs on the ground...

Richard

... oh yah? What is heaver a ton of feathers or a ton of bricks?

;)

 

[Angrey]

Never torque with a gun. You run the risk of overtorque which has all sorts of potential issues from warping of rotors to deformation of the threads to fatigue and failure of the studs. Always use an actual manual torque wrench. Doing that in the air is dangerous, even with rock solid jack stands, it's not worth the risk of the vehicle falling.

Snug them in the air and torque to spec while safely on the ground. ESPECIALLY if your vehicle is up on a jack of any kind.

The bigger issue is one of dry vs lubricated torquing and the manufacturer's recommendations are based off dry, free of debris and contamination conditions.

Other aftermarket manufacturers (like ARP) may have procedures and specs that call for wet torque.

 

[gfcobra04]

Tighten in air with Milwaukee then lower car partially to get enough friction so I can torque the lug nuts. Also I use assembly lub on the studs and on the end of the nuts.

 

[Angrey]

Tighten in air with Milwaukee then lower car partially to get enough friction so I can torque the lug nuts. Also I use assembly lub on the studs and on the end of the nuts.

I would only torque with lube if the manufacturer calls for it. Otherwise you may be over doing it.

 

[Genxer]

If your nuts are too tight, wear looser jeans.
For real, I simply lower the car enough to catch the tire enough where it won't rotate, and then torque everything before going all the way down.

 

[DougS550]

Tighten in air with Milwaukee then lower car partially to get enough friction so I can torque the lug nuts. Also I use assembly lub on the studs and on the end of the nuts.

Did you say you put Assembly Lube on your Lug Studs prior to torquing?

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