Are my nuts too tight?

[K4fxd]

Never torque with a gun. You run the risk of overtorque which has all sorts of potential issues from warping of rotors to deformation of the threads to fatigue and failure of the studs.

You have never worked in an actual shop. Look up torque sticks.

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[Johnnydarkgt350]

I’m sure most of you know but hasn’t been brought up . Torquing sequence of step and star torque until the correct lb feet . If anyone reading this thread now or later that may not know this . I start with about 40 to 50 pound feet originally in a star pattern then move it up in about four different sequences. Avoids any warping and the torque stays more even against the hub .

 

[K4fxd]

I start with about 40 to 50 pound feet originally in a star pattern then move it up in about four different sequences.

A touch of OCD??

 

[Angrey]

You have never worked in an actual shop. Look up torque sticks.

The guys in the shop don't have to worry about warped rotors and if they break a lug it's nothing for them to fix and they're more worried about time than doing it correctly. If I worked in a shop and my time was money, I'd probably use an impact as well.

 

[K4fxd]

If I worked in a shop and my time was money, I'd probably use an impact as well.

Have you looked up torque sticks????

I don't care if you have a monster 900 ft/lb impact. If you use the proper torque stick it will be the torque you want.

 

[Johnnydarkgt350]

A touch of OCD??

You torque too much

 

[Angrey]

Have you looked up torque sticks????

I don't care if you have a monster 900 ft/lb impact. If you use the proper torque stick it will be the torque you want.

I have them for my rifles, I just haven't ever really been in that big of a hurry when putting the wheels back on. I use them for rifles and precision gear because it's more compact than a torque ratchet.

Yes, if you have a torque limiter, spinning them would work. I still however am not a fan because of the risk of marring the wheel lug openings.

 

[Performance nut]

I snug them in the air and then roll the car a few feet on the ground after lowering to release most of the preload on the tires from the suspension movement when lowering. Then tighten on the ground to spec.

That seems to give consistent torques that last. No need to check again after driving or anything, they’re always fine.

Fwiw my front studs are coated so I’m also using a bit less torque too.

This is the procedure I have always done. But then again I never torqued a wheel to 150 ft-lbs before I bought an S550... I figured maybe my knowledge was outdated.

I’m sure most of you know but hasn’t been brought up . Torquing sequence of step and star torque until the correct lb feet . If anyone reading this thread now or later that may not know this . I start with about 40 to 50 pound feet originally in a star pattern then move it up in about four different sequences. Avoids any warping and the torque stays more even against the hub .

I agree with the star pattern but not walking it in. If I recall correctly, you walk bolts in on surfaces that are sealed so that there is consistent engagement with the gasket or when you torque to yield because you want to make sure the bolts are close to the same torque when you go to yield. I think the rest of the time it is common to go hand tight all around and then go to specified torque.

 

[DougS550]

You have never worked in an actual shop. Look up torque sticks.

I think most people here are experienced mechanics. I think his concern is, using such a fast ratcheting device could cause an over torque due to the quickness you are hitting the torque stick. I have to agree with him. But, that's just me. Good Luck

 

[Chef jpd]

Is this the new "what is the best oil" thread?

 

[Madtel4]

I use a 1/2 in breaker bar 24 in long as I am about 300 LB, I only use one leg to stand on the bar. I do use the star pattern. I use lard to lube the bolts, dogs lick my wheels instead of pissing on them.
Torque to 150 and check in 100 miles. Don't over think it. It's a lug nut.
Lee

 

[mrgooden]

I’m sure most of you know but hasn’t been brought up . Torquing sequence of step and star torque until the correct lb feet . If anyone reading this thread now or later that may not know this . I start with about 40 to 50 pound feet originally in a star pattern then move it up in about four different sequences. Avoids any warping and the torque stays more even against the hub .

I actually do my torque in 25% or so increments.

Richard

 

[Performance nut]

I think most people here are experienced mechanics. I think his concern is, using such a fast ratcheting device could cause an over torque due to the quickness you are hitting the torque stick. I have to agree with him. But, that's just me. Good Luck

The only thing that concerns me with using pneumatics to install lug nuts is galling.

I use a 1/2 in breaker bar 24 in long as I am about 300 LB, I only use one leg to stand on the bar. I do use the star pattern. I use lard to lube the bolts, dogs lick my wheels instead of pissing on them.
Torque to 150 and check in 100 miles. Don't over think it. It's a lug nut.
Lee

This ain't Kansas son. We use millennial tears for lug lube out here. Seems to be an over supply these days.

 

[TexasMetallic5.0]

I tighten in the air with my 1/2” cordless, drop it down and torque them to like 125 if I use the torque wrench. If just the 18” breaker bar, I go by feel.

 

[shogun32]

Also I use assembly lub on the studs and on the end of the nuts.

yikes, that's not just wet, that's lubed. Unless you have a datasheet that says otherwise, take at least 20% off dry specs.

I use lard to lube the bolts, dogs lick my wheels instead of pissing on them.

I have lots of bacon grease. I use it on my lathe and mill when cutting aluminum. I guess there are worse things wafting thru the air when the brakes get warm than the smell of fresh bacon...

Grease like this also calls for reducing from dry settings.

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