Kado
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2017
- Threads
- 10
- Messages
- 93
- Reaction score
- 41
- Location
- Woolwich, NJ
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 GT350 H4866
Can you give any details on the mount and what you had to do to make it work for you?
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I bought a black plastic cutting board and cut it to fit in the OEM battery tray. I attached the battery mount to the cutting board and used the OEM battery hardware to mount the assembly to the OEM battery tray. Done.Can you give any details on the mount and what you had to do to make it work for you?
Not to mention total cost with battery is over $600. I’ll stick with a “regular” upgrade, thank you.Advertising on someone's personal thread is poor taste, IMHO.
I disagree. If the advertiser has a solution to the problem posted in the thread I think it’s acceptable. IMHO.Advertising on someone's personal thread is poor taste, IMHO.
You dont need to remove ANY of that if you do not wish, some people want it all out for weight savings which is the main point of the battery. Again, removing those items are all personal opinion and not a requirement with our kit. The Battery Box itself is removed but still fully isolated from the engine compartment and the battery cover can still be reinstalled.Don't you want to keep the factory battery box for multiple reasons?? Need the lid to seal against the hood and ensure the cowl has a factory finshed look, and isolating the battery from engine compartment heat/elements? From the MMR photo, it also looks like that barrier piece that runs under the strut/cowl brace is missing (you can see the coil cover through that area); not a fan of removing any of that.
I only use mine for track duty. No issues. To do it right, you have to start with a full OEM batery and replace it with a fully charged Li battery or you have to do a BMS reset with forscan or whatever scanning tool.Hello guys…
Are these batteries still running strong? Are they getting along well with the factory BMS programming?
I only use mine for track duty. No issues. To do it right, you have to start with a full OEM batery and replace it with a fully charged Li battery or you have to do a BMS reset with forscan or whatever scanning tool.
I am yet to do a BMS reset. I just make sure my lead acid battery is fully charged with a battery tender before replacing it with a lithium battery that has been fully charged with a charger.
Sorry to sound redundant, but people press the button on the lithium battery and it shows full, and then they install it and it gives all kinds of problems (because it really isn't full).
As the others said don't trust the LED's on top. You must charge it to full before putting in the car. Although in theory the BMS reset should be done, I've never noticed a difference not doing it, even when I look at the data logging on Forscan. For getting along with GT350 electronics the ATX-20-HD and ATX-30-HD are the most reliable since they don't have the Restart circuitry. The Restart version batteries were hit or miss when I tested them in the GT350, though I do see GT guys running them without issue. I don't see it as a worthwhile feature so I recommend sticking with the ATX-20-HD or ATX-30-HD.Hello guys…
Are these batteries still running strong? Are they getting along well with the factory BMS programming?