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UPDATE: Sadly,I have learned the answer to this question for myself. Back in November I crashed the Shelby at VIR. I had an annual policy with Open Track insurance. They treated me very fairly and paid the claim without any real drama. Highly recommend Open Track.

So, let me get this straight… The conclusion of the FF thread was that the super-fragile 3 wire harness can be just… unplugged?! If true that would be equal parts ironic and joyous for those of us who have struggled with this gremlin. @RobeRob, if you can confirm this please share it back...

Quickjacks seem to be helpful in this method.

It may not be the pan. At least that’s not the only factor. I believe it also has to do with the harmonics of the flat plane crank Voodoo and the use case (track days). Add it all up and it’s not worth the convenience. Not everyone will be convinced. Those of us who are will stick with the OE...

All Ronin? Or Femco as well?

@pilotgore Of the 5 failures you’ve observed, how many were Voodoo vs Coyote?

That’s surprising. Have you tried more heat tolerant pads? Air deflectors for brake cooling? High temp brake fluid? EDIT: To get ba k on topic…. Slip on spacers with quality studs where all the interfaces are hubcentric. Not a problem on track.

I wonder if we’ll still be going back and forth on this when OP does his next event, which won’t be until spring. In any case, I’m headed to VIR for the weekend where I’ll be on a square setup with the goal of running the best laps I can. I’ll judge that mostly by lap times, but of course...

Stop sandbagging, @o-man! Break out the fast tires and lay down that magic lap. 😎 See you soon.

Buy once, cry once. This is the right play.

“Education” today!?

With the car in the air and wheels off, the process will be straightforward. It does require some focus so be wary of distractions or interruptions. The right helper can be a good move too. The reward is a firm pedal. And what’s better than that? Nothing. 😎

Ok, fellas. Let’s get outta here. OP started this mess and checked out completely. Leaving the fine folks of M6G to sort it out with little more than assumptions and guesses. Waste of time.

Service notes: If you have 4 or 6 piston front calipers, they have 2 bleed screws on each caliper, bleed the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder. On the rear calipers, apply and release the parking brake 5 times, bleed, repeat, until no air. The ABS unit (HCU) must be bled if a new...

Agreed. I’m invested in the same path. It’s gonna be a bit of an extended effort given the approaching end of season, but I hope OP sees it through.

I’m super interested to see how the conventional wisdom fares against professional testing and setup strategies and techniques.

A couple quick questions if you don’t mind: 1. Can you share more info on the shocks, springs and sway bars? 2. When you reference rake, do you mean that the rear is raised or lowered relative to the front?

How long are your sessions typically?

OP: When someone’s gonna try something unconventional, there will be naysayers. I’m sure that doesn’t surprise you. I can certainly understand your willingness to draw on the resources and expertise of the race shop and pro drivers you’ll be working with. I also understand your reluctance...

I’ll admit this setup seems odd. But I admire you for being willing to try it. If you just do what everybody does, you’ll just get what everybody gets. So try it. And you’ll have AIM data to support your findings. I’m very curious.