Mach 1 vs Mach 1 HP

[Mikepol2]

Can anyone tell me if there's a ride height difference? I know my CFTP GT500 sat 3/4" of an inch lower than a base one. I'm wondering if the HP sits lower than a regular Mach 1 and how it either compares to a base GT500. I've got a horrible driveway. I could only get my CFTP in backing up at an angle.

@Capt Jim The difference is minimal, 2-3 mm lower in the front, none in the back, refer to this recent post.

It's the HP splitter that's the problem, not the springs. My strategy for driving has become if you think you won't scrape, you probably will. You have to KNOW you won't scrape.

Sponsored

 

[Capt Jim]

First thing I did on the CFTP was remove the side splitters. If I was careful, I could back up on an angle and not scrape. I've got to figure these sit a little higher than that.

 

[Zelek]

I gained a little ride height with the tire swap to the PS4S tires. I think I measured 5 inches of clearance from ground to splitter. My driveway is awful but I have Curb-Its and I never scratch anything at all. I likely won't lower my car the 0.75" that I would like to do because I feel that might be just enough to start scraping things.

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

I was looking for Mach 1 and dealing with dealerships and found a Mach 1 for few grand over. Do you think it’s worth buying Mach 1 HP for a daily driver?

what additional maintenance costs will I be paying if I buy a Mach 1 HP instead of a regular Mach 1.

Any help is appreciated.

Why not? It's not a Ferrari.

 

[mallaki]

So outside the "Front Aero Splitter", "HP Wheels", "Front Wheel Lip Moldings", "Rear Tire Spats" and "Rear Gurney Flap" is there anything else different between Mach 1 Non-HP and HP?

Anything to do with caster, tow, shocks, speedometer calibration, spacers, etc?

I have a Non-HP Mach 1 with already installed rear spats... I don't care for rear Gurney Flaps. All I want is wider wheels/tires. Replace my OEM 5 spoke 255 fronts and 275 rears with HP size - 305 fronts and 315 rears and add front wheel lips... Of course, I will skip the Cup 2s and go with 305/30/19 and 315/30/19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires.

Is there anything else different between the two (non-HP and HP) that I don't know about?
Can I just replace my OEM wheels with wider ones, add front Lips and be done with it? And if so, will I be any different than OEM HP not counting the Front Aero Splitter and the rear spoiler gurney flap?

Thanks again!
---Peter

 

[IPOGT]

So outside the "Front Aero Splitter", "HP Wheels", "Front Wheel Lip Moldings", "Rear Tire Spats" and "Rear Gurney Flap" is there anything else different between Mach 1 Non-HP and HP?

Anything to do with caster, tow, shocks, speedometer calibration, spacers, etc?

I have a Non-HP Mach 1 with already installed rear spats... I don't care for rear Gurney Flaps. All I want is wider wheels/tires. Replace my OEM 5 spoke 255 fronts and 275 rears with HP size - 305 fronts and 315 rears and add front wheel lips... Of course, I will skip the Cup 2s and go with 305/30/19 and 315/30/19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires.

Is there anything else different between the two (non-HP and HP) that I don't know about?
Can I just replace my OEM wheels with wider ones, add front Lips and be done with it? And if so, will I be any different than OEM HP not counting the Front Aero Splitter and the rear spoiler gurney flap?

Thanks again!
---Peter

That’s it. The cars are the same. A Mach 1 is a Mach 1. With or without the bolt on HP goodies. If you like the add-ons for more track focus that the HP option gives, go for it. If you decide you don’t track it and the tram lining from the bigger tires is a pain and being paranoid about the secondary splitter, gets old, you can also change back with no mods whatsoever. That’s pretty awesome. Theoretically, you could take the hp stuff to the track and leave as a non hp in comfort. That’s what I’m doing. I’m working on duplicating the track attack stickers in magnetic so I put them on when I want also.

 

[Charlemagne]

Refer to this comparison:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ch-1-non-hp-and-mach-1-hp.195973/post-3924578

On top of what you mentioned, HP has solid rear stabilizer bar instead of hollow. And bit stiffer springs.

 

[Mikepol2]

So outside the "Front Aero Splitter", "HP Wheels", "Front Wheel Lip Moldings", "Rear Tire Spats" and "Rear Gurney Flap" is there anything else different between Mach 1 Non-HP and HP?

Anything to do with caster, tow, shocks, speedometer calibration, spacers, etc?

I have a Non-HP Mach 1 with already installed rear spats... I don't care for rear Gurney Flaps. All I want is wider wheels/tires. Replace my OEM 5 spoke 255 fronts and 275 rears with HP size - 305 fronts and 315 rears and add front wheel lips... Of course, I will skip the Cup 2s and go with 305/30/19 and 315/30/19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires.

Is there anything else different between the two (non-HP and HP) that I don't know about?
Can I just replace my OEM wheels with wider ones, add front Lips and be done with it? And if so, will I be any different than OEM HP not counting the Front Aero Splitter and the rear spoiler gurney flap?

Thanks again!
---Peter

That’s it. The cars are the same. A Mach 1 is a Mach 1. With or without the bolt on HP goodies. If you like the add-ons for more track focus that the HP option gives, go for it. If you decide you don’t track it and the tram lining from the bigger tires is a pain and being paranoid about the secondary splitter,
gets old, you can also change back with no mods whatsoever. That’s pretty awesome. Theoretically, you could take the hp stuff to the track and leave as a non hp in comfort.

The HP cars have stiffer springs and rear sway bars as well.

	Mach 1	Mach 1 HP
Front springs	194 lb	211 lb
Rear springs	657 lb	742 lb
Front sway	33.3 x 5.0mm wall (JR3C 5482 DA)	33.3 x 5.0mm wall (JR3C 5482 DA)
Rear sway	24 x 3.6mm wall	24mm solid (JR3C 5A772 DA)

 

[IPOGT]

The HP cars have stiffer springs and rear sway bars as well.

	Mach 1	Mach 1 HP
Front springs	194 lb	211 lb
Rear springs	657 lb	742 lb
Front sway	33.3 x 5.0mm wall (JR3C 5482 DA)	33.3 x 5.0mm wall (JR3C 5482 DA)
Rear sway	24 x 3.6mm wall	24mm solid (JR3C 5A772 DA)

Required because of the extra weight, mass and pressures from the bigger wheels and tires. That makes sense.

 

[skinnyb]

The HP cars have stiffer springs and rear sway bars as well.

	Mach 1	Mach 1 HP
Front springs	194 lb	211 lb
Rear springs	657 lb	742 lb
Front sway	33.3 x 5.0mm wall (JR3C 5482 DA)	33.3 x 5.0mm wall (JR3C 5482 DA)
Rear sway	24 x 3.6mm wall	24mm solid (JR3C 5A772 DA)

And the adjustable strut tops . Mine was converted from Non to HP "Clone" and it works for me... I love it anyway, does the job just fine. Might upgrade the rear sway at some point. Probably go Steeda though..

 

[Lucky13Cat]

SVE MHP1 wheels are incredible for only $1200 I think. I weighed the rear wheel and 325/30 PS4 tire today. 56 lbs. I weighed my factory wheel and 285/35 Pilot AS4 also. 64 lbs
i did 305/30 on front but you could do 295/30 also. All these pics are since lowered on ford performance handling springs.

 

[IPOGT]

While on the subject…..people may not know, that although the Mach 1 tires are the same size as PP1 GT’s, the Mach 1 standard wheel set, it is actually a half inch wider in the rear.

 

[MLO 351]

I'm sure I read that the steering shaft on the HP cars was different to non-HP MACH 1's.

 

[Charlemagne]

I'm sure I read that the steering shaft on the HP cars was different to non-HP MACH 1's.

That applies to all Mach 1's.

According to press release:

To improve ride and handling, Mach 1 features the latest MagneRide calibration, a stiffer steering I-shaft, new EPAS calibration, stiffer sway bars and front springs, a brake booster from the Mustang GT Performance Pack Level 2, 9.5-inch/10-inch split fitment wheels with Michelin PS4 tires, a rear subframe with stiffer bushings and a rear toe-link from Shelby GT500.

HP is just a few extra bolt-ons for looks mostly. And the gorgeous wide wheels.

 

[IPOGT]

I'm sure I read that the steering shaft on the HP cars was different to non-HP MACH 1's.

It isn’t.

Sponsored