Glitter in oil

[GregO]

Sourcing the OEM bearings requires decoding the block and crank nomenclature to arrive at the correct matched sets.
You will not find STD. on the OEM bearing. Ford uses a unique identification system.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/5-2-build-main-bearing-size-code-identification.177932/

The #5 bearing thrust surfaces looks fine for its use. Again, in my opinion.

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[furdfan2018]

Sourcing the OEM bearings requires decoding the block and crank nomenclature to arrive at the correct matched sets.
You will not find STD. on the OEM bearing. Ford uses a unique identification system.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/5-2-build-main-bearing-size-code-identification.177932/

The #5 bearing thrust surfaces looks fine for its use. Again, in my opinion.

Meh. You can measure them and find out if they are STD which im certain they are.

Once confirmed he can run a set of Clevite or King sized in STD and it won't be an issue.

 

[GregO]

Meh. You can measure them and find out if they are STD which im certain they are.

Once confirmed he can run a set of Clevite or King sized in STD and it won't be an issue.

So you’re suggesting the OP pulls the motor and removes the crank ?

 

[furdfan2018]

So you’re suggesting the OP pulls the motor and removes the crank ?

Where did I say that?

I'll post it again so it's easy.

One can MEASURE THE BEARINGS to see what size they are (STD, .010, .020, etc etc etc) and then one can go and order the correct size bearings in a brand other than Ford like King or Clevite.

 

[GregO]

I'll post it again so it's easy.

I’ll put it another way.
How do you suggest the OP safely removes the top bearing half without removing the crankshaft being the motor and transmission are still in the chassis ?

Ford doesn’t run the OEM bearings as you state.

 

[Coosawjack]

From what I've seen so far, I'd button it up when new fasteners arrive and ROCK ON!!

 

[furdfan2018]

I’ll put it another way.
How do you suggest the OP safely removes the top bearing half without removing the crankshaft being the motor and transmission are still in the chassis ?

Ford doesn’t run the OEM bearings as you state.

The top half of the mains will push out around the crank pushing from the non-tanged side of the bearing.

 

[GregO]

The top half of the mains will push out around the crank pushing from the non-tanged side of the bearing.

Just like that, no risks, no issues, just push it out and slip the replacement in.
Sounds like a perfect plan until it isn’t.

@DFERA
Proceed with caution.

 

[furdfan2018]

For fun... here is a set of rod bearings that came out of an old coyote of mine that failed in spectacular fashion.

You'll notice the Ford sizing nomenclature on the back of the bearings we talked about earlier.
You'll also notice they measure 1.99mm. These were taken out of a 2018 blown up Coyote gen 3 with only 4k miles.

Then here we have the brand new King "STD" sized bearings. They measure exactly the same as the Ford blueprinted bearings.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

I rolled main bearings out once, it was on a cat straight six diesel. I have no idea how long it lasted after.

 

[GregO]

Then here we have the brand new King "STD" sized bearings. They measure exactly the same as the Ford blueprinted bearings.

Measured “exactly”, with a digital caliper ?
Not my first rodeo.

 

[sk47]

Hello; Been following this thread a while. I feel for the OP in that his new to him car seems to have a potentially serious problem. The glitter in the oil is a red flag. The bearings pictured all show some marks with a couple showing more suspicious marks.
I will be surprised if the glitter turns out to be some sort of additive. Not out of the question I guess but beyond my personal experience.
Seems the OP has a few choices. One is button it up and run it the way it is with fingers crossed. if it fails later on the loss was already built in in a way of thinking.

OP can do at least one more investigation as he is already deep into the engine. That being a look at the cam bearing surface. The understanding seems to be the bearing surfaces are machined into the head material and do not involve replaceable bearings. The thinking apparently being that if those surfaces are good then two very expensive parts of the engine can be salvaged which will make a rebuild more practical. If those surfaces are scored, then new heads are needed, and he might as well run it as is for a while. I imagine new heads are expensive but do not know.
A further question arises. Are there any other expensive or critical components that need to be checked which might help determine the state of the engine? If I follow correctly the engine is still in the chassis and the OP is trying to determine if some level of fix can be had with it in place or is it time to rebuild.

I guess a short or long block could be part of the options but imagine this will be very expensive. I look at cars in different ways. My pickup is a generic sort which I will try to keep running but there is a limit to how much I will invest in it. My attitude on a classic Mustang, GTO, or other bucket list car is to plan to spend whatever it takes (IF I can afford to).
I have been looking for such a car for a while and have walked away from a few so far because they were either too much of a project or just too expensive. On the expensive ones I want to trust the seller is offering a good car but look at things beyond the car. I was close to some deals but eventually walked due to the sellers environment. On one after i met the seller and looked at the car at a restaurant parking lot, I asked to see his garage/shop. His work area turned me away. However, if I ever get one and find serious hidden problems then I figure to fix it.

To the OP. I hope this turns out to be reasonable fix. fingers crossed.

 

[Brisvegas]

I’ll put it another way.
How do you suggest the OP safely removes the top bearing half without removing the crankshaft being the motor and transmission are still in the chassis ?

Ford doesn’t run the OEM bearings as you state.

Its actually not that hard although id do it properly and do a full refresh , engine out , measure and clean and get rid of all the glitter .

You can loosen all mains slightly and push the old bearings out with a flexible tool . Not great for seals and only something youd do to a cheap bucket of shit to see you through

If this was my engine id already have it in pieces on an engine stand , in fact by now possibly back together in and running . Enjoying my car with reduced stress its about to fly apart .

If that glitter is metal id replace oil pump , all brgs , rings and gskts/seals at a minimum

 

[luca1290]

Did you try to pick up the glitter with a strong magnet?

 

[Jaymar]

This is why we can't have nice things.

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