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Amsoil break in oil. Avoid?

Sammy

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Seeing all the positive reviews on Amsoil products I am wondering if this is worth trying in a new Voodoo.

Formulated without friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston ring seating in new and rebuilt high-performance and racing engines. Contains zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect cam lobes, lifters and rockers during the critical break-in period when wear rates are highest

https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2881.pdf

What say you?
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jasonstang

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Your engine has already been broken in at the factory on the engine bench. No reason to put extra wear using break in oil.
This is for band new or rebuilt engine which yours is not.
 

Mountain376

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Your engine has already been broken in at the factory on the engine bench. No reason to put extra wear using break in oil.
This is for band new or rebuilt engine which yours is not.
Are the Voodoo"s actually broken in at Romeo? Because I can tell you that if you're talking about Flat Rock, the only "break-in" they see is when the car is fired up for the first time, driven off the line and then onto a dyno for quick verification, then driven into the lot for storage, awaiting transportation.

On another note, I have used Redline's break-in oil on various vehicles, including my last Mustang GT and my current Camaro SS. Does it work/help? Yes. Would I recommend it? Yes, but only on vehicle that do not have catalytic converters or ones that have some sort of oil separation on their PCV/fresh air ducting. So, if you elect to use it, I would also make sure you have the FP oil separator, to which if you do performance driving, you should have anyway. If I had a GT350, the #1 modification I would have, and maybe the only modification, would be an oil separator.

The reason I am saying all of this is because the elevated zinc and phosphorous in the break-in oils is not good for catalytic converters. Engines will burn oil. They will do so much more so when oil is being sucked in through the PCV or fresh air intake system and put into the air for combustion. Having an oil separator will alleviate this enough to be able to run a high-zinc/phosphate oil without any real detriment to the catalytic converters.
 

EFI

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Are the Voodoo"s actually broken in at Romeo? Because I can tell you that if you're talking about Flat Rock, the only "break-in" they see is when the car is fired up for the first time, driven off the line and then onto a dyno for quick verification, then driven into the lot for storage
That's basically 95% of breakin right there. Most of what needs to happen with a new modern engine happens within a few minutes of initial startup. The rest of the time (up to 500 mile in what most people consider breakin) is just a formality.

So OP, if you can for sure verify that the engine in your car has NEVER been started even once since it got assembled, it would be a good idea to use that stuff. But considering that's not the case, I would not bother. The factory already puts some protective stuff on internal parts during assembly, so it's not like the engine is started dry.
 

Mountain376

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I looked into the the assembly of the 5.2L Voodoo and, from what I can find, all they do that has anything to touch on some kind of break-in is spin testing the engines. This is a fairly common thing to do on engine assembly. Basically, and engine is just motored, externally, to pump oil through its various passages for 1. pre-lube and 2. to perform various checks before releasing the engine to ship to vehicle assembly. Technically there is "break-in" due to movement of the pistons, but not necessarily real engine break-in.

Maybe it's not documented and they do actual engine fire-up and break-in. I've not been to Romeo assembly. I've been to many different vehicle assembly plants though.
 

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Mountain376

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That's basically 95% of breakin right there. Most of what needs to happen with a new modern engine happens within a few minutes of initial startup. The rest of the time (up to 500 mile in what most people consider breakin) is just a formality.

So OP, if you can for sure verify that the engine in your car has NEVER been started even once since it got assembled, it would be a good idea to use that stuff. But considering that's not the case, I would not bother. The factory already puts some protective stuff on internal parts during assembly, so it's not like the engine is started dry.
It's near impossible that a vehicle rolls off an assembly line and is not started. You'd have to be one of those super-duper picky, very, very rich guys that demands your car not put any miles on because you want it as a collector. I've indirectly had to deal with people like that when the 2013 GT500 came out.
 

jasonstang

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Are the Voodoo"s actually broken in at Romeo? Because I can tell you that if you're talking about Flat Rock, the only "break-in" they see is when the car is fired up for the first time, driven off the line and then onto a dyno for quick verification, then driven into the lot for storage, awaiting transportation.

On another note, I have used Redline's break-in oil on various vehicles, including my last Mustang GT and my current Camaro SS. Does it work/help? Yes. Would I recommend it? Yes, but only on vehicle that do not have catalytic converters or ones that have some sort of oil separation on their PCV/fresh air ducting. So, if you elect to use it, I would also make sure you have the FP oil separator, to which if you do performance driving, you should have anyway. If I had a GT350, the #1 modification I would have, and maybe the only modification, would be an oil separator.

The reason I am saying all of this is because the elevated zinc and phosphorous in the break-in oils is not good for catalytic converters. Engines will burn oil. They will do so much more so when oil is being sucked in through the PCV or fresh air intake system and put into the air for combustion. Having an oil separator will alleviate this enough to be able to run a high-zinc/phosphate oil without any real detriment to the catalytic converters.
I would imagine engines are gonna go through some kind of spin test before being installed in a car.
Engines are assembled and tested way before the car is assembled.
 

nastang87xx

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Seeing all the positive reviews on Amsoil products I am wondering if this is worth trying in a new Voodoo.

Formulated without friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston ring seating in new and rebuilt high-performance and racing engines. Contains zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect cam lobes, lifters and rockers during the critical break-in period when wear rates are highest

https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2881.pdf

What say you?
I had 7 miles on the clock when i picked up my car (I think). I just drove normally for that week from work and back. I had 200 and some odd miles on it come that Sunday morning........

Oh look! An autocross course is in front of me! Gee, what a shame. I guess I should just drive like a pu$$y...said no one ever.



To date, I have no weird sounds, no piston slap, no odd smells, no nothing but a well oiled (no pun intended) machine.
 
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Sammy

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I bring it up as my engine's oil rings (not sure how many) are not working as designed. It burns 1 quart of oil every 80 miles. Ford to their credit has a new engine and cats on order. Since I have been through this and would like to avoid a repeat I thought i might be worth looking into. This time I will drive it like a pus**.
 

Tank

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What does that standard specify?
Per the GT350 manual, it's the standard that engine oil must meet. As of this writing, the only two are Motorcraft and Amsoil.
I can't tell you exactly what the standard denotes...don't feel I need to know anymore about it :lol:
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