Kado
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Can you give any details on the mount and what you had to do to make it work for you?
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Figured we would add to this post, we have a direct bolt in Mount for the ATX battery in the 2015-2022 S550 Mustangs, the MMR kit replaces the factory battery box/tray with a bolt in, chassis mounted billet kit. These are in stock now and make the install a breeze!
https://www.modularmotorsportsracin...n_page=product_info&cPath=87&products_id=1471
https://www.modularmotorsportsracin...n_page=product_info&cPath=87&products_id=1471
honeybadger
Just don't care
Advertising on someone's personal thread is poor taste, IMHO.
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galaxy
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Don't you want to keep the factory battery box for multiple reasons?? Need the lid to seal against the hood and ensure the cowl has a factory finshed look, and isolating the battery from engine compartment heat/elements? From the MMR photo, it also looks like that barrier piece that runs under the strut/cowl brace is missing (you can see the coil cover through that area); not a fan of removing any of that.
Nfs1000f
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I disagree. If the advertiser has a solution to the problem posted in the thread I think it’s acceptable. IMHO.
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You dont need to remove ANY of that if you do not wish, some people want it all out for weight savings which is the main point of the battery. Again, removing those items are all personal opinion and not a requirement with our kit. The Battery Box itself is removed but still fully isolated from the engine compartment and the battery cover can still be reinstalled.
james cole
Well-Known Member
Hello guys…
Are these batteries still running strong? Are they getting along well with the factory BMS programming?
Are these batteries still running strong? Are they getting along well with the factory BMS programming?
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Tomster
Beware of idiots
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I only use mine for track duty. No issues. To do it right, you have to start with a full OEM batery and replace it with a fully charged Li battery or you have to do a BMS reset with forscan or whatever scanning tool.
I am yet to do a BMS reset. I just make sure my lead acid battery is fully charged with a battery tender before replacing it with a lithium battery that has been fully charged with a charger.
Sorry to sound redundant, but people press the button on the lithium battery and it shows full, and then they install it and it gives all kinds of problems (because it really isn't full).
Egparson202
Well-Known Member
It’s too soon for me to offer anything definitive. However, I can confirm @Tomster ’s assertion that though the ATX-20-HD I received showed full on its onboard indicator, it required more than a little time on the proper charger before it was truly fully charged.
Also, post install, it spins the Voodoo noticeably faster than the OE battery did.
Also, post install, it spins the Voodoo noticeably faster than the OE battery did.
james cole
Well-Known Member
Great thanks so much! will do!
Demonic
Well-Known Member
As the others said don't trust the LED's on top. You must charge it to full before putting in the car. Although in theory the BMS reset should be done, I've never noticed a difference not doing it, even when I look at the data logging on Forscan. For getting along with GT350 electronics the ATX-20-HD and ATX-30-HD are the most reliable since they don't have the Restart circuitry. The Restart version batteries were hit or miss when I tested them in the GT350, though I do see GT guys running them without issue. I don't see it as a worthwhile feature so I recommend sticking with the ATX-20-HD or ATX-30-HD.
galaxy
Well-Known Member
As someone who's followed this topic because I want one when the time comes, the reports are good. You don't find too many, if any that I know of, running the 30 because the mounting solutions aren't as simple and readily available. I'd probably get the 30 if there were easy mounting.
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