street to track pads

[thornclaw]

hello
I'm planning on a couple of track events this year and am researching brake pads that can perform adequately on both street and track. Three pads exist that are advertised for this purpose
-ebc yellow stuff street and track
-raybestos street performance
-hawk hp plus

if anyone has real world experience with these in terms of noise, dust and brake fade, please post

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[Ewheels]

I would recommend getting two different (but compatible) pads and swap back and forth. Typically, "do-all" pads aren't very good and either.

Can't speak for EBC or Raybestos but the Hawk HP+ pads still dust and squeak on the street and if you're any bit fast on the track, they over heat quickly. I would say the HP+ pads are an aggressive street pad if you don't mind the extra noise.

Honestly, the OEM PP pads are pretty great for a "do-all" pad but also glaze on track quickly if you're aggressive.

I would recommend GLOC GS1 street pads and maybe GLOC R12/10 pads for the track. The compounds are compatible so no need to sand rotors during swaps and they both perform well at their respective "jobs".

I run track pads year round as my car doesn't see many street miles and I don't care about dust or noise.

 

[PaddyPrix]

Like Eric said, there's really no such thing as a do both pad, and the last thing you want is a street pad failing on you at the track. The G-LOC GS-1 and R12/R10 combo worked out really well for me, and it'd be my first real recommendation. Sure, it'd suck having to change pads, but it'll give you a great pad on the track, and a pretty good pad on the street. Changing out the front pads isn't actually too bad either. Take the tire off, pull out the retaining clip and pins, pull the pad with needle nose, use a spreader, and slide the pads in from the top, retaining clip and pins back in, toss the tire on, done.

Pros can do it in 50 seconds --

 

[NightmareMoon]

If you aren't driving that hard (and your local tracks are easy on the brakes) its hard to beat the stock 6-pot brembo pads. (assuming you have those calipers).

For a miata or something lightweight, you can sometimes get away with a dual duty pad, but the mustangs weight combined with its horsepower means street/track pads aren't the way to go.

Get some dedicated track pads and some street pads which have compatible deposits and then realize you're going to use all that pad material anyway, so buying both is just an upfront cost. If you're tracking you should already be taking the prep seriously, so the time involved in switching shouldn't be an issue.

 

[thornclaw]

thanks for responses
very informative
if someone could figure out how to change the rear pads without damaging the seal around the piston i would be much happier doing frequent pad changes

 

[Ewheels]

Like Eric said, there's really no such thing as a do both pad, and the last thing you want is a street pad failing on you at the track. The G-LOC GS-1 and R12/R10 combo worked out really well for me, and it'd be my first real recommendation. Sure, it'd suck having to change pads, but it'll give you a great pad on the track, and a pretty good pad on the street. Changing out the front pads isn't actually too bad either. Take the tire off, pull out the retaining clip and pins, pull the pad with needle nose, use a spreader, and slide the pads in from the top, retaining clip and pins back in, toss the tire on, done.

Pros can do it in 50 seconds --

Woah! .... couldn't see in the video but do they bleed the brakes too in the pit or do the cars have a way of getting air out or preventing air from entering??

 

[Nodster]

-ebc yellow stuff street and track

if anyone has real world experience with these in terms of noise, dust and brake fade, please post

I've used EBC Yellowstuff pads on past high performance cars I've owned, no track use mind. Only street. For street use they are spot on. Great bite and good coefficient of friction and easy to bed in (100-200 miles). Dust wise I'd say middle of the road. Not light like some, but not too heavy like some pads (I've seen some OEM pads that are a lot worse than these). But yep, brake dust is inevitable with these.

Noise wise, I had zero noise from these in multiple applications. No squeaks, chirps, or sqeuals. And I'm quite gentle on the brakes which usually is a bad combination with higher rated pads as they like a bit of heat otherwise they can squeal. I had that with a set of Brembo HP2000 pads.

I use Brembo Be Quiet brake grease as well on the back of the pads.

I've been looking recently at pads and discs for the GT and I quite like the look of DBA Xtreme Performance pads. https://dbabrakes.co.uk/discbrakes/77239/DB9021XP

0.45 average mu and work up to 550ºC.

Just to add, EBC say the Yellowstuff are only OK for "light" track use. And they also note that they are not a light dust pad - as I mention above.
https://ebcbrakes.com/products/ebc-yellowstuff-fastest-street-drift-race-brake-pads/

I think Yellowstuff are ~0.45-0.5 average mu working up to 450ºC.

Hope that helps.

 

[PaddyPrix]

Woah! .... couldn't see in the video but do they bleed the brakes too in the pit or do the cars have a way of getting air out or preventing air from entering??

I'm guessing they're using clamps on both the incoming unit which might have been pre-bleeded, and clamp the outgoing system so that the rest of the car isn't dripping.

That said, there's likely still a small bubble I'm going to assume that they either quickly pressure bleed out since it should be right there near the tip.

 

[Dana Pants]

thanks for responses
very informative
if someone could figure out how to change the rear pads without damaging the seal around the piston i would be much happier doing frequent pad changes

If you put SOMETHING between the bellows seal and the piston to lubricate the sliding your life will be better. I have used a few drops of brake fluid to lubricate that area in the past.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I daily gloc R18/R12. Amazing combo at track,

if you’re just starting out maybe go R12/R10.

Yes Gloc says they’re track only pads. Yes they dust like crazy. But I’ve found them really tolerable on the street and worth the sacrifice. Dust doesn’t damage wheels like other compounds.

With venting I’ve found I can melt down the 200tw tires before I can induce any brake fade on PP1 brakes.

Don’t expect stellar performance when ice cold but they wake right up once driving.

For whatever reason these pad compounds don’t seem to squeal on an s550 like they do on every other car I’ve run them on—although I am running titanium shims.

They make noise, but don’t sound like a school bus. Same compound is embarrassing in parking lots on single or dual piston sliders.

 

[EFI]

Unless you're a pro driver, or have some sort of defective parts, you're not going to see "do it all" pads fail on track.

I've tracked/dailyd both the OEM PP pads and now a set of Powerstop Z26 and have had no issues with either setup. Again, I'm no pro driver so these pads with good fluid performed fine on track and never faded to the point where it was dangerous. Maybe someone much faster would.

 

[shogun32]

the OEM PP pads and now a set of Powerstop Z26 and have had no issues with either setup. Again, I'm no pro driver so these pads with good fluid performed fine on track and never faded to the point where it was dangerous. Maybe someone much faster would.

I think it's also down to technique. Some people just stomp on the pedal, some press into the pedal. the manner and intensity of the heat rise is probably a significant variable.

 

[NightmareMoon]

thanks for responses
very informative
if someone could figure out how to change the rear pads without damaging the seal around the piston i would be much happier doing frequent pad changes

Its really pretty easy, just squirt some lube on the boots before you rotate the piston. I've been using WD40, cause it was basically w/in arms reach. Yeah, if you don't lubricate them they will bind and tear.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Is it even useful to keep changing the rear pads for not-so-advanced drivers? I have been changing my fronts between the OEM PP1 pads (Fedoro DS 2500) and separate track pads (Fedoro DS 1.11), but have never changed the rears yet. I briefly looked at how to change the rear pads, but it seemed quite a bit more complicated than changing the fronts. The fronts are really easy once you've done it once or twice, maybe the rears too?

I also often keep the DS 1.11 on after a track day if I have another track day planned in a few weeks and don't want to spend the time changing them back and forth. They squeak a little, but I suspect that's mostly because I don't bother to re-lubricate with anti-squak on the track pads, while I do that now and then on the DS 2500 pads. If someone asks why my car squeaks like some old not maintained car, I just tell them "still running with the track pads, you see." Everyone nods suitably impressed, I'm sure.

 

[shogun32]

If someone asks why my car squeaks like some old not maintained car, I just tell them

"the squeak tells me they haven't fallen out and are working"

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