Brake Pads and Rotors for Street/Track use

BmacIL

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Beg to differ ...

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Doh, what I posted are the sport rotors, not Eradispeed. Seems like buying lightly used Brembos and rotors is a better value though.





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BmacIL

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Interesting! I wonder if there are multiple revisions? Seems like buying lightly used Brembos and rotors is a better value though.
Looks like a you can get a blank (not drilled or slotted) for $685. Still hefty price tag when I can pick up used 6 piston brembos for $500ish and rotors for about $200.
 

vteckiller2000

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Keep in mind the stock 4 piston brakes are absolutely fine for street and autocross. It's really only HPDE where they will show their limitations.

Also, if you decided to upgrade to the GT PP Brembos, you can usually get new "take offs" for $650-700 that include the calipers, rotors, and pads (I bought mine from Shelby American). They are a simple bolt on. Food for thought.
I plan on taking this to the track for TT events when my miata is down. I have no desire to lose the brakes on track.
Also, to do the brembo brake upgrade correctly, the booster and master cylinder also need to be swapped. This would involve doing a power bleed while cycling the ABS pump to ensure no air in the system, something I am not equipped to do in the garage. The complete package would likely cost me over $1000 all in. I would much rather just do rotors, pads and fluid.
 

vteckiller2000

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Looks like a you can get a blank (not drilled or slotted) for $685. Still hefty price tag when I can pick up used 6 piston brembos for $500ish and rotors for about $200.
The amount I quoted earlier today was for both pairs, front and rear. If I am going all in, I may as well swap the rears too for rear vented as well. Since I have an EB with at least 200 less weight to drag down, the baer rotors and some pads/fluid still may be the best way to go. I just hate to spend so much on brakes for a brand new car with such potential with the hardware that is hamstrung by silly things like the venting...
 

BmacIL

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The amount I quoted earlier today was for both pairs, front and rear. If I am going all in, I may as well swap the rears too for rear vented as well. Since I have an EB with at least 200 less weight to drag down, the baer rotors and some pads/fluid still may be the best way to go. I just hate to spend so much on brakes for a brand new car with such potential with the hardware that is hamstrung by silly things like the venting...
Since you have the performance pack with your EB, your rears are vented.
 

BmacIL

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Yeah, the wrong way just like the front. They are the same as GT rears.
And aren't a problem for all but the most serious track rat on sticky tires and big power. Don't waste money on something that isn't a problem.
 

vteckiller2000

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And aren't a problem for all but the most serious track rat on sticky tires and big power. Don't waste money on something that isn't a problem.
I run in advanced groups in the miata and have a set of RE-71's and a bunch of cooling mods sitting on deck. I would rather slightly overbuild the brakes.
 

BmacIL

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I run in advanced groups in the miata and have a set of RE-71's and a bunch of cooling mods sitting on deck. I would rather slightly overbuild the brakes.
In that case, go full GT350 setup and get rid of the floating caliper too.
 

Norm Peterson

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The OE S550 14" Calipers are huge. The 6 Piston Brembo is above the 4 Piston 14" Caliper in this picture. They are very bulky and take up a lot of space.
Bulky, yes. But to fit inside the barrels of base-GT 18" wheels they can't be much bigger radially than the S197's Brembo, and I can't see much reason for making the caliper thicker (requiring a more extreme spoke back side shape) unless the pads are much thicker (which would open up a separate question).


We looked at milling the bridge down for hat fastener clearance while not removing too much caliper rigidity but determined it's not worth the time to bother with them.
Like probably most people, I'm thinking of 1-piece rotors that wouldn't need caliper clearance to fasteners that I'm sure extend outward to a greater radius than the hat of a 1-piece.


We don't understand the complaints about the base brakes, don't bring a car to a road course with stock brake pads, of course they have no chance. They come with a non performance compound. The 6 Pistons come with a semi decent DS2500 compound which will handle moderate track use.
It's not about the pads here; those can be considerably upgraded in a matter of minutes and probably from a number of sources. How many sources of conventionally-vented rotors for the S550 are there?

People do buy cars with no intention of tracking them and end up tracking those cars anyway because it's that easy to get started. And there are people who know from the get-go that they're going to toss most of the wheel/tire/suspension details that make up the PP1 (maybe even the PP2), and in the absence of the commotion over this new-to-Mustangs rotor design would very likely run with only pad and fluid upgrades for a while.

The mass flow of that moving air matters, not just the fact that some air is moving relative to the surfaces being cooled. And for driving that's much more than just a little harder than "daily driving in traffic", more mass flow is better. What I'm seeing with front side air entry is the air that's ejected at the periphery of the rotor is going to form a curtain that at least interferes with air flow coming from the engine side, and the wheel and tire limiting the amount of flow coming directly from the outside (not to mention that cool airflow in and heated air flow out are trying to share the same space).

I understand the benefits of directing some cooling air at the calipers. Rotors are only one side of the whole picture.


Norm
 

Radiation Joe

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Doh, what I posted are the sport rotors, not Eradispeed. Seems like buying lightly used Brembos and rotors is a better value though.
I totally agree with you on the value of the GTPP brakes. Great deals can be had for them.
I haven't been to the track in years, and really don't need a beefy brake system. I'm just pointing out that the EradiSpeed rotors are configured with inboard cooling and are significantly lighter than stock. I'm concerned that the hats are directly bolted to the rings, though. If I was working those rotors hard at the track, I'd inspect them regularly.
The other interesting thing about these rotors is that you have a choice of cross drilled or not. I would put the cross drilled rotors in the front and non-drilled in the rear. I believe the difference in surface area between drilled and not drilled may help to shift the brake bias a little to the rear.
 

Norm Peterson

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A much bigger concern is cracking through the holes from repeated, extremely rapid thermal transients, and this is going to be a more severe situation at the front. You'd be much better served by staggering pad compounds based on friction coefficients at operating temperatures.


Norm
 

SVO MkII

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I plan on taking this to the track for TT events when my miata is down. I have no desire to lose the brakes on track.
Also, to do the brembo brake upgrade correctly, the booster and master cylinder also need to be swapped. This would involve doing a power bleed while cycling the ABS pump to ensure no air in the system, something I am not equipped to do in the garage. The complete package would likely cost me over $1000 all in. I would much rather just do rotors, pads and fluid.
The 6 piston Brembos bolt right on to a GT or EB PP, no other mods are necessary. Search other threads, this has been discussed at length, i.e., MC and everything else is the same between the 4 piston and 6 piston setup. As far as bleeding, nothing special required. I used a pressure bleeder (hand pump) that I have had for probably 15 years. No special procedures required. Whole process took about 3 hours.

As I posted up above, a set of new "take offs", calipers, rotors, pads, etc., just sold yesterday on Ebay for $530. That's crazy cheap for this upgrade.
 

vteckiller2000

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The 6 piston Brembos bolt right on to a GT or EB PP, no other mods are necessary. Search other threads, this has been discussed at length, i.e., MC and everything else is the same between the 4 piston and 6 piston setup. As far as bleeding, nothing special required. I used a pressure bleeder (hand pump) that I have had for probably 15 years. No special procedures required. Whole process took about 3 hours.

As I posted up above, a set of new "take offs", calipers, rotors, pads, etc., just sold yesterday on Ebay for $530. That's crazy cheap for this upgrade.
Read Vorschlag's posts, the master and booster are different. Only installing the calipers and rotors actually REDUCES stopping efficacy by too much rear bias IIRC. They got slower and had bad pedal feel without the additional parts.
 

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