Winter Storage First Timer - Any Tips?

[Mach 307]

Guys thank you for all the feedback!

Looks like the main consensus here is
-Full Detail
-Full Tank
-Stabil
-Battery Tender which I need to purchase
-Rubber of some sort under the tires which I need to purchase
-Cover which I have from Covercraft!
-Tires up to 40PSI
Then leave her alone!

My garage is very mice proofed, I have about 10 glue traps, 4 regular poison traps, 4 snap traps, lots of bug traps as well. I don’t take any chances with those mfers!! I also occasionally spray a peppermint spray.

@Skye
I saw something about the chocks and parking brake, because it can get stuck engaged? I will take your advice here.

They are summer tires… maybe a small heater for the garage?

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[I Bleed Ford Blue]

I had summer tires on my vert and also on the mach 1. I just air up the tires to about 40-45 psi and leave them alone. No rubber mats or wheel chocks, and no heat in the garage either and they are fine. But I am in Cleveland so it's doesn't get as cold as Wisconsin in the winter.

 

[Skye]

I saw something about the chocks and parking brake, because it can get stuck engaged?

With an MT, if left in gear, I didn't like the idea of pressure being against the input shaft of the transmission, unmoving, for several months. Or the drivetrain in general. Neutral just lets the bits sit.

As to the brake, a similar mindset. Leaving the brake off, the pieces simply rest.

IMO, leaving the Tremec in gear or the parking brake set throughout storage is similar to tensing a muscle, then not relaxing it for an extended period.

They are summer tires… maybe a small heater for the garage?

I did some general Googling to get a range of threads you can scan through to get a feel for the topic, what others do.

Certain temperatures, Summer compound rubber can begin to crack, especially if the vehicle is moved. That's the #1 no: do not move the car if the tires are approaching 40 F or colder.

The car will be at rest. But if the vehicle will be cycling in/out of a temperature range in the 40s or lower, it's something I'd like to avoid. The occasional on-off, I'm not too worried about that.

The manufacturer of your tires might offer specific storage or temperature recommendations.

https://www.google.com/search?q=win...eGGMIHCDAuMy4zMC4xyAeTAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

https://www.google.com/search?q=saf...xMzE4ajBqMTWoAgKwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[Mach 307]

With an MT, if left in gear, I didn't like the idea of pressure being against the input shaft of the transmission, unmoving, for several months. Or the drivetrain in general. Neutral just lets the bits sit.

As to the brake, a similar mindset. Leaving the brake off, the pieces simply rest.

IMO, leaving the Tremec in gear or the parking brake set throughout storage is similar to tensing a muscle, then not relaxing it for an extended period.



I did some general Googling to get a range of threads you can scan through to get a feel for the topic, what others do.

Certain temperatures, Summer compound rubber can begin to crack, especially if the vehicle is moved. That's the #1 no: do not move the car if the tires are approaching 40 F or colder.

The car will be at rest. But if the vehicle will be cycling in/out of a temperature range in the 40s or lower, it's something I'd like to avoid. My preference.

The manufacturer of your tires might offer specific storage or temperature recommendations.

https://www.google.com/search?q=win...eGGMIHCDAuMy4zMC4xyAeTAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

https://www.google.com/search?q=saf...xMzE4ajBqMTWoAgKwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I’m in your boat with the transmission and will use your same method. Here’s what was said about my Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, sounds like I just cant drive which I of course don’t plan to until it warms up,

"Note: Tires exposed to temperatures of 20 degrees F (-7 degrees C) or lower must be permitted to gradually return to temperatures of at least 40 degrees F (5 degrees C) for at least 24 hours before they are flexed in any manner, such as by adjusting inflation pressures, mounting them on wheels or using them to support, roll or drive a vehicle.

Flexing of the specialized rubber compounds used in Max Performance Summer tires during cold-weather use can result in irreversible compound cracking. Compound cracking is not a warrantable condition because it occurs as the result of improper use or storage, tires exhibiting compound cracking must be replaced".

 

[Mach 307]

Here’s what I’m planning on buying so far.

 

[Skye]

I've been using that smart charger since taking receipt of my car; it works great.

I believe it's a CTEK item, branded Ford Performance.

 

[Mach 307]

I've been using that smart charger since taking receipt of my car; it works great.

I believe it's a CTEK item, branded Ford Performance.

What wheel chocks do you use? Since we both have the same HP tire size.

 

[skinnyb]

Second kinda what everybody else has said. Air up the tires, stabil, battery maintainer, clean really well. I store mine for at least 2-3months in the colder months (Usually just before Christmas til end of February), I however do not cover my car. Its in the garage and clean, it just gets a bit dusty. I do a quick rinseless wash when I get ready to go out the first time when it warms up. I use a Noco genius 2 amp tender, it works great for me.

 

[K Myers]

Why?

So many pot holes in the winter from the plows. Plus lots of residual salt on the roads

Never understood what "keeping the tires of the cement" was supposed to do.

I might park the car on dollys this year, just so I can push it from side to side to tuck it in the corner of the garage.

Cement is porous and it suck the moisture out of them

 

[CrazyHippie]

Full detail inside and out, air up the tires to about 40, full tank of gas with a bottle of Stabil, battery tender, cover it. Leave it alone until spring. Don't start it unless you intend to drive it.

Yep. This is what I do too. I also change the oil before storage thinking that it's better to have fresh oil in there. I do not change it again when I bring it out of storage in the Spring.

 

[Postal Bob]

Guys thank you for all the feedback!

Looks like the main consensus here is
-Full Detail
-Full Tank
-Stabil
-Battery Tender which I need to purchase
-Rubber of some sort under the tires which I need to purchase
-Cover which I have from Covercraft!
-Tires up to 40PSI
Then leave her alone!

My garage is very mice proofed, I have about 10 glue traps, 4 regular poison traps, 4 snap traps, lots of bug traps as well. I don’t take any chances with those mfers!! I also occasionally spray a peppermint spray.

@Skye
I saw something about the chocks and parking brake, because it can get stuck engaged? I will take your advice here.

They are summer tires… maybe a small heater for the garage?

No heater. And instead of rubber mats, or chocks, get those Flatstopper ramps shown in a previous post. They help prevent flat spots on the softer, Summer tires. Plus with them, you can leave the car in neutral and the parking brake off.
My car is stored outside all Winter, and I never had a problem following the procedure outlined here along with the Flatstopper ramps.

 

[MAGS1]

I’m in your boat with the transmission and will use your same method. Here’s what was said about my Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, sounds like I just cant drive which I of course don’t plan to until it warms up,

"Note: Tires exposed to temperatures of 20 degrees F (-7 degrees C) or lower must be permitted to gradually return to temperatures of at least 40 degrees F (5 degrees C) for at least 24 hours before they are flexed in any manner, such as by adjusting inflation pressures, mounting them on wheels or using them to support, roll or drive a vehicle.

Flexing of the specialized rubber compounds used in Max Performance Summer tires during cold-weather use can result in irreversible compound cracking. Compound cracking is not a warrantable condition because it occurs as the result of improper use or storage, tires exhibiting compound cracking must be replaced".

Race Ramps makes a quality product for the Flatstoppers. No chocks needed either.

https://www.raceramps.com/car-storage/ramps/flatstoppers/p/rr-fs/

Also, FWIW, my garage is attached and not heated (but well insulated). The coldest it’s ever gotten in my garage during those super cold snaps is 40F. No need to add a heater to the garage for storage.

 

[Mach 307]

Race Ramps makes a quality product for the Flatstoppers. No chocks needed either.

https://www.raceramps.com/car-storage/ramps/flatstoppers/p/rr-fs/

Also, FWIW, my garage is attached and not heated (but well insulated). The coldest it’s ever gotten in my garage during those super cold snaps is 40F. No need to add a heater to the garage for storage.

Looks like this’ll be what I’m getting! No chocks at all?

 

[Mach 307]

Edit on my previous post, this is what I’ll be getting instead for my tire filling and deflating.

 

[Skye]

What wheel chocks do you use?

A few years ago, Race Ramps sold traditional rubber wheel chocks. I was able to buy a set on sale as they were ramping up (pun intended) to sell their now foam-based chocks.

Looks like U-Line, Harbor Freight, Summit and others sell the traditional rubber types. General chocks, for storage and maintenance.

https://www.google.com/search?q=aut...wMDM5ajBqMTWoAgKwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

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