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Wheel hop elimination??

Järn

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Watched the video twice, he says the toe link is the most important upgrade? Should be done first? Never would have thought that.
It is one of 3 that Kelly recommends doing first.
My personal experience was that the FP toe knuckle bearing made the biggest change in the response of the IRS. The stock toe-link has a binding rubber on both sides of the joint. I had both replaced, and that was 2 of the 8.
I replace the vertical link also and that was 4 of the 8. I have replaced 5 of the binding rubber bushings. I would absolutely do it again.
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jmagnus87

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What happens when the BMR components are all torqued down , Does the assembly still move freely ? I understand the concept of parts moving , just wonder if its still efficient when tightened
down securely ....
I'm not sure but i gather it's a lot better than the rubber bushings preventing travel. It's a real bear to get the stock cool spring back in after the LCA spherical bearing mod
 
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jmagnus87

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Watched the video twice, he says the toe link is the most important upgrade? Should be done first? Never would have thought that.
For $88 on cj pony parts, it certainly can't hurt. Has anyone noticed any adverse effects on ride quality? I can't imagine that part changes the harshness much at all
 
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jmagnus87

jmagnus87

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Has anyone ever changed this one? If so, what's this one called?
 
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jmagnus87

jmagnus87

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update: yall weren't kidding, these bushings were absolutely awful! I had to cut the rubber section out, slice the old bushings and then beat them out with a hammer and chisel! But about 5 hours later, i got the new ones in.


For those inquiring minds that want to know, the Steeda vertical links do indeed pivot while torqued down, so kelltrac was misleading there. Maybe he meant the BMRs pivot more smoothly?

another question, why would i have gear oil on one of my CV axles where the bearing was? Does that mean my bearing is bad? Or maybe i just got some on it during install?
 
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He didn't say anything about Steeda.

He clearly showed a stock vertical link binding.

Look at all those rusty parts! Time for a re-coat! 👍
 
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jmagnus87

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He didn't say anything about Steeda.

He clearly showed a stock vertical link binding.

Look at all those rusty parts! Time for a re-coat! 👍
Yeah man New England isn't easy on the cars. I probably shouldn't drive it in the winter but I hate to see it sit.
And the part i was referring to was at 2:50 he said it's the only one that rotates freely like this. So maybe he's saying the others don't rotate as freely. just making sure Steeda knows I'm not bashing their stuff by considering using the BMR stuff to fix my problem.
 
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WildHorse

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I have the full on Steeda stop the hop kit and I get no wheel hop. My ride has not changed either.
Congrats on your AUTOMATIC not having wheel-hop :rolleyes:
 
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How does one pin the diff to the IRS?
replacement bushings. But most people reach for the diff 'puck' inserts since it's easier to install and works well enough for most applications.
 
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jmagnus87

jmagnus87

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replacement bushings. But most people reach for the diff 'puck' inserts since it's easier to install and works well enough for most applications.
So are you saying, I'll likely need to get the bushing replacements that you have to cut out of the cradle?
 

shogun32

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I think it's the best solution but the best kit is from Whiteline and they quit making them. Steeda and bmr use aluminum which will significantly add noise. Puck solution should be fine.
 
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jmagnus87

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I think it's the best solution but the best kit is from Whiteline and they quit making them. Steeda and bmr use aluminum which will significantly add noise. Puck solution should be fine.
Yeah if i was going to go through all that effort, i would only want to go with poly bushings in that spot for harshness. My car isn't dedicated racecar. Thanks for the info
 
 








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