Wheel hop elimination??

[NightmareMoon]

Some combinations of surface and tire make it really hard to eliminate wheel hop. Is it wheel hopping just at the launch or elsewhere on the autox run?

Usually with the good 200TW autox tires, wheel hop isn't an issue at the launch, but it might depend on the pavement at your site.

I only have the rear lower control arm bearing and the upgraded FP toe link bearing, good shocks, and good tires, with no other rear suspension parts, and I don't really see any wheel hop at autox, ever. I do get a little when turning at low speeds on slick surface streets, but I don't really care about that. The LRCA bearing isn't expensive, but its a real PITA to remove the control arm and then to install the bearing itself.

FWIW I only did the rear lower control arm because one of mine was torn. Torn bushings can happen so inspect yours for issues before you throw other parts at the car.

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[Oakley]

unless you pin the diff, the wheel hop won't stop. It's the diff getting yanked all up and down and fore/aft that is the major freedom of motion that needs to be squashed. Don't get me wrong, the IRS needs plenty of help too to tie it to the rest of the car instead of it having it's own mind.

better change those motor mounts too just to be sure.

 

[shogun32]

better change those motor mounts too just to be sure.

sorry, not seeing the connection. The drive-shaft is anchored in the middle so engine movement is not particularly significant...

 

[tj@steeda]

So, i have some removed some of the wheel hop elimination kit from the car because it made the ride on the street just awful (our roads are a joke)
But i was never successfully able to get rid of the wheel hop. I did the full Steeda elimination kit, Steeda Tri-ax which removed slop in the shifter rear bushings, transmission bushing insert thing, and have ran stock 275/40 Michelin pilot super sports until about last week since 2015. everything else is stock performance package GT premium with shaker upgrade if that matters. I did resonator delete but that's it for engine. No matter all of that stuff i still was never able to fully remove the hop at autocross from a dig.
any thoughts? I did a search didn't find much??

Shoot me your contact info - let's put you in contact with our lead tech team / install team to review your install - what tire pressure are you running your rear tires at? These are things they will cover with you - I have no doubt we can get you on your quest of no hop!

TJ

 

[Oakley]

sorry, not seeing the connection. The drive-shaft is anchored in the middle so engine movement is not particularly significant...

because it doesn't just like the drive-shafts connecting the diff to the hubs make its movement irrelevant to the situation.

 

[jmagnus87]

Tan tire

Shoot me your contact info - let's put you in contact with our lead tech team / install team to review your install - what tire pressure are you running your rear tires at? These are things they will cover with you - I have no doubt we can get you on your quest of no hop!

TJ

Ran tires from 20psi to 45psi and no change. -PM sent

 

[jmagnus87]

Some combinations of surface and tire make it really hard to eliminate wheel hop. Is it wheel hopping just at the launch or elsewhere on the autox run?

Usually with the good 200TW autox tires, wheel hop isn't an issue at the launch, but it might depend on the pavement at your site.

I only have the rear lower control arm bearing and the upgraded FP toe link bearing, good shocks, and good tires, with no other rear suspension parts, and I don't really see any wheel hop at autox, ever. I do get a little when turning at low speeds on slick surface streets, but I don't really care about that. The LRCA bearing isn't expensive, but its a real PITA to remove the control arm and then to install the bearing itself.

FWIW I only did the rear lower control arm because one of mine was torn. Torn bushings can happen so inspect yours for issues before you throw other parts at the car.

Only at the starting line, if i blow sideways in a drift i get zero hop lol go figure. Line lock, no hop. Just taking off from a dig hard and catching second i get hop in second too.
Here in New England, any road that's gone through one winter is just trash now. Frost heaves and cracks everywhere. So autocross tracks are the worst of the worst for maintenance. But even on nice clean roads that seem to be holding up or fresh pavement still get it from a dig. Super annoying.
also, if you read the above, i took those bearings out, still have them in a box. Bought factory LCAs and put them back for comfort

 

[NGOT8R]

@jmagnus87, K4fxd beat me to it. Thank you @K4fxd! I was going to hunt for my pic, but those are really great pics.

@jmagnus87, it does require dropping the subframe to gain the necessary clearance to do this mod.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Only at the starting line, if i blow sideways in a drift i get zero hop lol go figure. Line lock, no hop. Just taking off from a dig hard and catching second i get hop in second too.
Here in New England, any road that's gone through one winter is just trash now. Frost heaves and cracks everywhere. So autocross tracks are the worst of the worst for maintenance. But even on nice clean roads that seem to be holding up or fresh pavement still get it from a dig. Super annoying.
also, if you read the above, i took those bearings out, still have them in a box. Bought factory LCAs and put them back for comfort

its going to be hard to overcome some hop if the road surface is that bad.

You’ll get less hop with sticker tires. If the tire hooks, it won’t hop.

 

[jmagnus87]

@jmagnus87, K4fxd beat me to it. Thank you @K4fxd! I was going to hunt for my pic, but those are really great pics.

@jmagnus87, it does require dropping the subframe to gain the necessary clearance to do this mod.

Yeah i did them the first time on a lift, gonna be a real PITA to do it without this time. But yeah I've dropped/lowered the subframe many times myself as of this point to do the jobs.
trying to re-align the bolts with the alignment bushings is a real nightmare when you have to pull the cradle all the way down. But I'll likely try the black bushings and the differential plate next, that seems like a good addition to the Steeda line up for my car. I just really hated the spherical bearings in the LCAs so hopefully i can go without those...

 

[NGOT8R]

Yeah i did them the first time on a lift, gonna be a real PITA to do it without this time. But yeah I've dropped/lowered the subframe many times myself as of this point to do the jobs.
trying to re-align the bolts with the alignment bushings is a real nightmare when you have to pull the cradle all the way down. But I'll likely try the black bushings and the differential plate next, that seems like a good addition to the Steeda line up for my car. I just really hated the spherical bearings in the LCAs so hopefully i can go without those...

Yeah, it takes some jockeying to manage the subframe by yourself. I did mine alone too and on the ground (used four 6 ton jack stands about 21” tall) to support the car along with two floor jacks and a scissor jack (to support the diff.) while evenly lowering the entire assembly. Same thing going back up and I didn’t have any issues.

Best of luck to you in getting everything sorted out the way that you want it.

 

[jmagnus87]

Update: working with Steeda tech help to see what they think.
looks like I'm going to have to spend even more money to fix it, the BMR762 kit looks awfully intriguing.
Just tried a launch this morning on Continental EC DWS in the wet and it still hops. Ideally, i just want them to break free until they grab like my 98 GT did

 

[shogun32]

Until and unless you pin the diff to the IRS and constrain it's movement you're not going to get rid of hop.

 

[tj@steeda]

Update: working with Steeda tech help to see what they think.
looks like I'm going to have to spend even more money to fix it, the BMR762 kit looks awfully intriguing.
Just tried a launch this morning on Continental EC DWS in the wet and it still hops. Ideally, i just want them to break free until they grab like my 98 GT did

The Steeda Tech team has only asked what is on the vehicle so far and they will analyze what may be taking place - there has been no mention of additional parts, pricing, etc - let them do their due diligence & they will discuss next steps.

TJ

 

[PC_GUARD]

Yeah i did them the first time on a lift, gonna be a real PITA to do it without this time. But yeah I've dropped/lowered the subframe many times myself as of this point to do the jobs.
trying to re-align the bolts with the alignment bushings is a real nightmare when you have to pull the cradle all the way down. But I'll likely try the black bushings and the differential plate next, that seems like a good addition to the Steeda line up for my car. I just really hated the spherical bearings in the LCAs so hopefully i can go without those...

I dropped mine last year but did not lower it all the way out.

A thought that occurred to me is, buy some threaded rod that you can wind into the 4 or even the 2 diagonally. Run the rod through the cradle up into the bolt holes to guide it back up as you jack it in.

Just a thought for everyone, that need to drop it out alone.

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