Wheel hop elimination??

[Torinate]

Figured that’s what you meant but then got thinking about pins or something like that or something new…

Thanks!!

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[jmagnus87]

Sooo to sum up this thread, we have (from Steeda directly) to get Mickey Thompson drag radials
Then from the community-> differential bracket thing and probably BMR 762 kit. Am i understanding this correctly?

 

[K4fxd]

Sooo to sum up this thread, we have (from Steeda directly) to get Mickey Thompson drag radials

I went back through the thread and nowhere do I see any recommendations from Steeda.

If they privately said this to you I would heed their advise.

 

[NJMike]

If you are lowered BMR762 for rear (camber? Right)

 

[NGOT8R]

I have the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials and like them a lot. Many have said that radials are hard on the drivetrain.

In addition to all of the suspension parts and radials, I have Ford Performance half shafts, which incorporate some sort of anti-hop feature in the design.

If none of that does it for you, look into a Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System to save driveline parts from breakage.

 

[jmagnus87]

I have the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials and like them a lot. Many have said that radials are hard on the drivetrain.

In addition to all of the suspension parts and radials, I have Ford Performance half shafts, which incorporate some sort of anti-hop feature in the design.

If none of that does it for you, look into a Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System to save driveline parts from breakage.

I have the GT350 half shafts in mine, better than nothing i suppose. I'll get a set of Mickey Thompson tires at some point and see where we end up.
Thanks everyone for the advice/input

 

[Järn]

any thoughts? I did a search didn't find much??

Sorry, I forgot about this video. Kelly's video is awesome, he explains the problem and the solution.

The subject of the 8-binding rubber bushings in the IRS has not been discussed much in the last few years. I replaced 5 of the eight and the ride and wheel hop improved with each one (or two) that were replaced. I used Steeda parts and the wheel spin is smooth and quick before hookup (and that is with the 20" boat anchor rims).
Of the five I replaced, I would say that the Ford Performance toe link knuckle made the biggest improvement. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M

 

[jmagnus87]

Sorry, I forgot about this video. Kelly's video is awesome, he explains the problem and the solution.

The subject of the 8-binding rubber bushings in the IRS has not been discussed much in the last few years. I replaced 5 of the eight and the ride and wheel hop improved with each one (or two) that were replaced. I used Steeda parts and the wheel spin is smooth and quick before hookup (and that is with the 20" boat anchor rims).
Of the eight I would say that the Ford Performance toe link knuckle made the biggest improvement. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M

OMG this! This right here!! All i wanted was for it to spin then grab when it's ready. This guy is a genius and should be a millionaire. But leave it to one random guy in his garage on the floor to actually have found the real problem here. Between him and BMR of course... ugh alright, I'll be buying that stuff soon enough because that makes perfect sense to me.
i design stuff on CAD all day for the last 13 years and without this guys video, i never would have been able to see it short of ripping the whole thing out of my car.
HUGE thanks to Jarn, if you want me to help you with anything i can anyway i can, feel free to PM me

 

[Sc302]

What helped me the most after installing the stop the hop ultimate kit and the differential bushings, was to install the toe link bearings. Either steeda or frpp, i installed the frpp bearings.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...oe-link-bearing-assembly-2015-2022/p/M5A460M/

 

[jmagnus87]

What helped me the most after installing the stop the hop ultimate kit and the differential bushings, was to install the toe link bearings. Either steeda or frpp, i installed the frpp bearings.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...oe-link-bearing-assembly-2015-2022/p/M5A460M/

Yeah those will be the next piece i buy mostly due to the price. I'll post an update after that

 

[Sc302]

Yeah those will be the next piece i buy mostly due to the price. I'll post an update after that

Getting the right tool to push out the old bearing is difficult to find. Steeda includes the bearing install tool with their bearing which can press out the old bearing using a ball joint press.
Alternatively a harbor freight pittsburg pro 1 1/4” socket with the ball joint press will press out the old one and press in the new one with ease. Unfortunately it is only part of the 3/4” case of sockets. i bought the whole kit to get it done and rented the ball joint press from advance auto. Not a bad job with the right tools. If using the ball joint press on the car, use a rod through the hole to keep the press assembly from falling off a billion times while you get the clamp in position. That saved me a crap ton of time on the second side.

edit: I tried other 1 1/4” sockets, they didn't work. The od measurement for that socket is 48mm. Find a tool or socket that the od is 48 mm and about 56mm tall and you will be able to push that out pretty easily.


https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-sae-impact-socket-set-8-piece-67960.html

 

[jmagnus87]

Thanks for the tips. I read the ford performance install manual and it to said to use 1 1/4 socket to press it out. I planned on renting the ball joint press tool. I have a few big sockets, I'll have to see if i have one that size or the equivalent in metric. But I'm on vacation in another state right now so can't check lol

 

[Sc302]

Make sure it is 48mm in diameter or you are going to have a fun time (near impossible) taking it out. Shallow socket, not deep. Also to take out press toward the front of the car (bearing exits the front). When pressing back in, push in towards the back of the car. The bearing is beveled that side goes in first.
Good luck.

 

[Lilmags500]

OMG this! This right here!! All i wanted was for it to spin then grab when it's ready. This guy is a genius and should be a millionaire. But leave it to one random guy in his garage on the floor to actually have found the real problem here. Between him and BMR of course... ugh alright, I'll be buying that stuff soon enough because that makes perfect sense to me.
i design stuff on CAD all day for the last 13 years and without this guys video, i never would have been able to see it short of ripping the whole thing out of my car.
HUGE thanks to Jarn, if you want me to help you with anything i can anyway i can, feel free to PM me

What happens when the BMR components are all torqued down , Does the assembly still move freely ? I understand the concept of parts moving , just wonder if its still efficient when tightened
down securely ....

 

[paulm1]

Sorry, I forgot about this video. Kelly's video is awesome, he explains the problem and the solution.

The subject of the 8-binding rubber bushings in the IRS has not been discussed much in the last few years. I replaced 5 of the eight and the ride and wheel hop improved with each one (or two) that were replaced. I used Steeda parts and the wheel spin is smooth and quick before hookup (and that is with the 20" boat anchor rims).
Of the five I replaced, I would say that the Ford Performance toe link knuckle made the biggest improvement. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M

Watched the video twice, he says the toe link is the most important upgrade? Should be done first? Never would have thought that.

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