The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[Flyhalf]

I covered my JLT in my 2018 creating a plexiglass cover.
Very simple.
4 L SHAPE brackets
4 bolts
8 rubber washers
4 nut pr similar
Some metal glue (to glue the bolt to the l shape which otherwise will fall)
Then 12$ plexiglass.
Take the shape. Cut it with a metal cutter circular blade.
Make the hole in the plexiglass and boom done
Very very helpful for daily.
I found out not very useful for roadcourse purposes ( you run 3f above after half lap anyway)
I would encourage you to buy somenthing like the JLT filter mesh.
FFPERFORMANCE can definetely help you out



For street it works fantastic.


Alex

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[Bridgie]

Fabrication progress..

 

[HeelToeHero]

Fabrication progress..

Don't forget to seal the snorkel as well:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...mance-power-packs.60467/page-339#post-2970371

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

That's correct

It doesn't do shit

Actually, the factory water-to-oil heat exchanger (Oil cooler) is effective, although it may not be adequate for hard track use. The fact is, the water exiting the radiator, the coolest point in the system, goes directly to the oil cooler. And, as long as that water is cooler than the oil, it cools the oil rather than heating it.
Now I'm really tempted to secure thermocouples to the lines going into and out of the oil cooler to see how much heat is removed. If cost was no issue, I'd by an 8-channel thermocouple data logger and get some real data. Anyone done that yet? I'm just 10% into this thread, and will read it all by the weekend.
Thanks to all so far for the great info. I'm learning a lot from others' experience. Looks like I'll get the Mishi radiator before my next track event.

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

Don't know, this whole thing is an experimental project that allows me to tinker. I'll be able to report back on the diff temp after sessions on track.

Also, it's reading the diff housing temperature as an estimate of the oil temp inside, not sure if the oil inside will be the same temp as the diff cover but can always adjust the temp settings to compensate.

I have a track day Sep 2, so a month away before I can see if it works ok

I think a good solid measurement of the diff cover temp is going to be awfully close to the fluid temp. It's aluminum, which conducts heat extremely well, and the fluid constantly washes along the cover at a very high rate, especially the curved part where the sensor is attached in your pics. Check out this YouTube: "What's going on behind your stock diff cover?" by Banks Power. Notice how areated the fluid is too. And, if your cooler is not pumping out of the drain port and returning to the fill port, you're not going to have success.

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

Seems that there is a point, both for IAT and ECT, that the ECU is adding timing. You can use the multiplier table, with corresponding load values, to figure out the actual corresponding timing.

Although I am still not 100% how the logic works in between row values. For example, there's values for 100* (50) and 180* (10). In other instance, GM vehicles for example, if you wanted to know what the value was for 140* it would be half between 50 and 10. Idk if that's the case for Fords though so might be tough to interpolate the actual values for points in between the existing rows.

Thanks for this info! What software is that? More generally, where can I find this kind of info for other specific years and models?

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

COTA Track day report back

Mishimoto radiator report back:
I also have the 2" radiator from Mishimoto and the Reisch 170 deg thermostat, stock engine oil cooler. I was noting ECT (engine coolant temp) on the nGauge, sorry, should have been cylinder head temp but I forgot to change it.
1. Temps were in the range of 220degF to 230degF
2. Upper end was usually after a really high rpm hard run section of track
3. Temps come down fast to low 220's after an easier track section
4. Oil temps were always 8 to 9 tenths in the green - high :shrug:
5. I think larger vents in the hood are the way forward for me, and I'm going to remove that rubber seal along the sides to encourage a little more air out from under the hood

I would like to bring my ECT down about 10 to 20 deg, I can definitely feel the power fall off a little as the temps go up, and my timing is maybe pulled back 2 to 3 degrees from my test logs.

Thanks for the details. Maybe I missed it, but did you ever post what your temps were before the Mishi radiator upgrade? I'm trying to decide what to do first for better cooling for 30 min. track sessions.

 

[fatbillybob]

The fact is, the water exiting the radiator, the coolest point in the system, goes directly to the oil cooler. And, as long as that water is cooler than the oil, it cools the oil rather than heating it.
t.

I think this is a real problem where they heat each other up. When you plumb an external oil cooler and delete the FORD failure oil cooler each radiator (water and oil) can do their thing...reject heat. I never race over 85F ambient. I just don't like heat. Saying that I have been extremely successful keeping the pp1 radiator and adding big oil coolers for engine, trans, and diff (unintentionally copied gt350 design on diff).

 

[fatbillybob]

Thanks for this info! What software is that? More generally, where can I find this kind of info for other specific years and models?

HP Tuners.

 

[wazatataza]

Fabrication progress..

I did something similar with an old acrylic glass sign I had laying around. Cut it to fit within the seal. Works like a charm until I get my hands on some lexan glass.

 

[HeelToeHero]

Don't you guys find the lexan gets filthy?

 

[Plimmer]

Thanks for the details. Maybe I missed it, but did you ever post what your temps were before the Mishi radiator upgrade? I'm trying to decide what to do first for better cooling for 30 min. track sessions.

I had the base model radiator, and I was getting into the 240’s. One of the most important things to do if you get the mishimoto radiator is to rebuild the shrouds. You need to completely box in the radiator to ensure all airflow is forced through the radiator and none can escape around it. If you skip this step you will still struggle with overheating. I used cheap plastic corrugated sign board from Lowes to make a box around my radiator. Then I used duct take and double sided tape to seal it properly

 

[Plimmer]

@AlbertD thanks for the ideas, Im going to try it on my car

 

[TeeLew]

I had the base model radiator, and I was getting into the 240’s.

At what point were you going to pit? That's probably 60 degrees over peak power and a good 30 past a number any racecar would see. If you continue running at these temps, you'll launch the engine for sure.

 

[shogun32]

I used cheap plastic corrugated sign board from Lowes to make a box around my radiator. Then I used duct take and double sided tape to seal it properly

I'm planning to use 2" round insulating foam if I can find some. The stuff used to seal doors and such just bigger than the typical 1" size at home improvement stores.

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