Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[djcwardog]

Went Ahead and Tried the Rear Deck Method

After confirming that my DSP amp was not putting out a signal to the sub (but it WAS sending out the 6v turn-on signal), I spent an hour yesterday installing my Audiocontrol LC2. I tapped into both rear deck speakers. I got to the leads from underneath, in the trunk. Then I sent those four wires to the input plug on the LC2. I ignored the remote in and out connections on the LC2 as I am still having the DSP amp send the 6v back to the subwoofer amp. However, I did cut the signal leads from the front for the subwoofer signal. Now I have the amp out leads from the LC2 going to the OEM subwoofer amp. I had to convert an RCA output to two wires to connect those to the sub amp harness - where I cut out the leads coming from the front.

Result - I do hear bass coming out of the OEM sub now. It is readily adjusted for sound level using the LC2. Now I can set the bass audio control slider to flat on the screen up front and just turn up the LC2 to get my low bass. Because the LC2 offers such a good capability in tuning the sound, I recommend this even for those with a factory 401A (2015-2017) or Shaker Pro option (2018) in their cars.

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[Nik_Ind]

Good to have a plan. I had to figure it out through experimentation. I did in the end get to figure it out.

the diagram refers to the premium 9 speaker shaker system.

I had a read through your questions.

The upper 3.5inch mids in the doors have a wire that runs from this mid directly to the tweeter. What I did was simply unplug the tweeter in the A pillar and ended up using a two way component set with the tweeter mounted where the midrange was positioned. If that makes sense? so one set of wires run to the 6.5 inch the other set to the midrange.

Also getting the signal from the head unit before it goes through the factory amplifier is a full range signal. You can take that full range signal through your own amplifier to the subwoofer and other speakers, most amplifiers have there own crossover and gain controls or you can use your own DSP.

Hey man! How does the 3.5" component system sound? I'm currently running a pair of Infinity REFs with the stock tweeters unplugged. Really want to try the Focal 100 KRS, but not sure if the tweeter makes a lot of difference.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Does anyone know if any of the factory audio hardware or wiring diagrams has changed in the 2018’s?

 

[saltydogg]

My 2018 wiring looks identical to all the diagrams and pictures posted

 

[DAZZA]

Hey man! How does the 3.5" component system sound? I'm currently running a pair of Infinity REFs with the stock tweeters unplugged. Really want to try the Focal 100 KRS, but not sure if the tweeter makes a lot of difference.

I have redone my system for the forth time. I think you meant 6.5 inch component?

I decided to simplify it and it sounds so much better.

I installed two 8inch kicker subs in the rear parcel shelf without any cutting on timber spacers mounted from underneath using all 10 bolts and plenty of sound deadening. Free air.

I purchased a pair of pioneer coaxials speakers - Pioneer TSZ65F
Run the whole lot off of a 4 channel pioneer amplifier top of the line.

But to answer your question if you keep the amplifier stock and disconnect the tweeters in the A-pillar replace the midrange with a coaxial 3.5inch speaker - I used Hertz. This would be a really cheap, simple and effective improvement but you also need to disconnect the centre channel - its horrible. I did not find the 6.5 inch's in the doors that bad.

My issue with the component speakers was you need time alignment adjustment as I feel that the tweeters are mounted to far from the woofers, hence for moving to a coaxial speakers. I currently find that the coxials mounted low down does not muffle the sound at all it's very clear and open sound. They are a fantastic speaker and there are no cross overs to worry about trying to install.

 

[woofer196]

Amp Upgrade

You have obviously NOT been talking to my wife

It would be better to go with a true 3-way set than trying to piece things together. The problem is that most 3-ways are quite expensive. In my opinion, CDT makes some dang good sounding speakers for a "reasonable" price. http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ist&order=created_at&dir=desc&p=1&brand[]=153

You could also purchase raw drivers from PartsExpress or Madisound for substantially less. Be very careful with the dimensions, since these are typically designed for home speakers where speaker depth is not much of a concern. Dayton & Tang Band are a couple of brands that folks have had good luck with.

Hi Everyone - I'm finally getting around to upgrading my amp (well, trying).
I have a 2017 EB Premium with the 9 speaker system. I've upgraded all of the factory speakers.

Based on the feedback from this forum, it sounded like the best route for improving audio fidelity is to leave factory amp installed (due to noise cancellation/steering wheel controls), then install a digital processor (Lc7i), then install after market amp to the speakers. I've purchased the Lc7i and a 5 channel Infinity Kappa Amp and brought it to an audio shop to have installed (I got the 5 channel so I would have the option of installed a sub in the future).

The feedback I got from the tech was that I wasn't going to get the sound I want because the amp will only power 4 speakers and the center channel drives most of the sound - not sure how true this is? I would assume the after market amp would be able to power the component set in the front (tweeters/6.5") as well as the two speakers in the rear. Then I'm assuming it would leave the center speaker and the 3.5" mid-ranges in the door un-powered by the aftermarket amp?

He also wanted to remove the factory amp and said he was going to have to cut the noise cancellation wires. I ended up leaving without having him do any work.

Any suggestions on what I should do from here? Is the sound going to be messed up if the after market amp is not powering the center channel/3.5" mid range speakers?

 

[cking]

Well if want keep the sound tube you got to keep factory amp for fake engine noise. However speed control volume is in the head unit, and steering wheel volume goes to head unit also. So if you replaced ALL the speakers I guess you want more volume or bass?

 

[woofer196]

Well if want keep the sound tube you got to keep factory amp for fake engine noise. However speed control volume is in the head unit, and steering wheel volume goes to head unit also. So if you replaced ALL the speakers I guess you want more volume or bass?

I want higher fidelity audio quality at higher volume and a bit more bass.

If you remove the factory amp, won’t the noise canceling device start making strange noises?

 

[Techno]

You might have noise canceling problems if you keep the factory amp..all the processing is in there. Also note that the tweeter and the 3.5 are tired together. When I did replacement on the 9 speaker I used the wire in the door took it off the the 3.5 and put it on the component crossover to drive the tweeter. Of course I replaced the factory amp with a 4 channel, so I only had front and rear speaker outputs.

PS: The loss of the center 3.5 is a blessing

 

[cking]

Do a search on how to remove sound tube, then buy the pigtail from Hextail? Which gives front/rear/left/right put those four into your lc7i then you got to pick 7 channels. Like each door gets two channels, center,sub,reardeck. Leaves short 2 amp ports. With 5 channels it depend on what you put on rear deck, coax or mono. If you use one channel for doors choose cross over carefully

 

[woofer196]

You might have noise canceling problems if you keep the factory amp..all the processing is in there. Also note that the tweeter and the 3.5 are tired together. When I did replacement on the 9 speaker I used the wire in the door took it off the the 3.5 and put it on the component crossover to drive the tweeter. Of course I replaced the factory amp with a 4 channel, so I only had front and rear speaker outputs.

PS: The loss of the center 3.5 is a blessing

Someone on here before said I'd have noise cancelling problems if I removed the factory amp, so I'm confused haha. I thought the factory amp controlled the noise cancellation and the steering wheel controls, so if I removed it, I'd have problems? Someone else recently said the steering wheel controls come from the head unit though?

The speakers have already been upgraded and used the existing wiring. Are you saying you wired the 3.5" into the component speakers somehow so that you could power all three speakers with one channel of the amp?

A lot of this is Greek to me - basically just need to know enough so I can tell the tech what to do without messing up other components in the vehicle.

Is there any harm in keeping the factory unit and having the Lc7i and then a 5 channel amp installed after it?

 

[woofer196]

Do a search on how to remove sound tube, then buy the pigtail from Hextail? Which gives front/rear/left/right put those four into your lc7i then you got to pick 7 channels. Like each door gets two channels, center,sub,reardeck. Leaves short 2 amp ports. With 5 channels it depend on what you put on rear deck, coax or mono. If you use one channel for doors choose cross over carefully

Is there any way around not having to remove the sound tube?

I also searched for the pigtail from hextail and couldn't find anything.

Thanks!

 

[rambunctious]

if you keep the factory amp, and then amplify with a second amp or more efficient sub, you will amplify the noise cancellation signal, resulting in not matching the noise it is cancellation, and resulting in more noise.

You can eliminate the Noise cancellation signal via mic disconnect, forescan program, or anc connector removed from the factory amp. i am not 100% sure if disconnecting the anc connector will not trigger a audio system check fault... still researching...... seems many have had luck with mic disconnect.


replacing the amp will eliminate anc and sound design (piped in engine enhancement) as these are created in the head unit and sent separately to the factory amp. Assuming you use only the audio signal into your processor, and not the anc/sound signals.

Ramb

 

[Falk03]

You can eliminate the Noise cancellation signal via mic disconnect, forescan program, or anc connector removed from the factory amp. i am not 100% sure if disconnecting the anc connector will not trigger a audio system check fault... still researching...... seems many have had luck with mic disconnect.

I think you can disable ANC via ForScan in the ACM:

727-01-01 xxxx x*xx xxxx A-->8
727-01-02 xx*x xx 8-->0
727-01-02 xxx* xx 8-->0

 

[cking]

I also searched for the pigtail from hextail and couldn't find anything.

Thanks!

HEXTALLS550 search for him on this thread. He makes pigtails to tap the head unit to feed the lc7i. I would pm him with your exact setup. He seems to know the most on this thread, read all his posts

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