Steeda RLCA spherical bushing installation?

[Grimreaper]

You are so close... you don't have to cut all the way through the shell. Make the cuts and then use a blunt flat head to hammer the edges of the shell near the cut in. Takes the pressure off and they should slide out easily

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[NGOT8R]

Thanks for the Pro Tip Grimreaper! I am going to call my buddy who has a machine shop at his house and see if I can run out and have him knock this out for me. I took it as far as I feel comfortable going myself. Time for the pro to go to work. I’ll provide an update once I get it handled.

 

[Grimreaper]

I need a buddy like that.

All good and a mod that's worth the headaches too. Takes a bit to get used too

 

[NGOT8R]

I can’t wait to get this part of the suspension mods done, it’s definitely the biggest PITA so far. Once the bearings are installed, I can move on to installing the following supporting mods:

Steeda differential bushing kit (black bushings with upgraded through bolt kit)
Steeda differential support bracket
Steeda subframe alignment kit and bushing support kit
Steeda IRS braces
Steeda billet aluminum vertical links with delrin bushings

To the suspension experts out there; is there anything else that I am overlooking and should add to the rear suspension? I wasn’t sure if toe links and adj. camber brackets are necessary, but can order those if it makes sense to. I won’t ever track the car, but do plan on an occasional trip to the drag strip. Thanks.

 

[NGOT8R]

I took the control arms out to my buddy’s this morning and he was able to get me taken care of. I don’t know the size of his shop press, but it is at least a 20 ton for sure. His press ram was about twice the size of my 12 ton press ram. Pro Tip: He turned down the end of the Steeda press tool In his lathe (made a lip to seat inside of the control arm outer bushing sleeve) to keep it perfectly aligned while pressing the sleeve out. I wouldn’t say it was an easy task by any means. I had my fingers crossed the whole time hoping the job went perfectly and it did. He did have to use both hands to pump the jack on the press to get it done though. Man I’m glad that part is over with! Here are a few pics to show the finished product and modification to the Steeda tool.

Modified Steeda installation tool.

 

[buttsy]

View media item 18090View media item 18089View media item 18088I installed superpro poly rear lower control arm bushes. They are super easy to press in, as they have a thinner wall. I used my mates CNC machine vice. Very good clamping force.
Removing the originals is simple. As long as you have the correct tools. I used a hole saw to remove the rubber from the bush. Drilling from both sides before knocking the guts out. And then used a reciprocating saw to cut 3 points basically 120 degrees apart. Then folded in with a punch. Approx 45min each. Taking my time.
I initially tried 2 cuts in the outer shell. And still had to very easily press it out with my bearing puller. With 3 cuts, it fell out. Definitely worth doing 3. approx 5 min on each cut once you are used to it. I had a mate help to make sure that I didnt cut fully through the shell. Another set of eyes was nice. But def not necessary.

 

[NGOT8R]

Right on buttsy! I see you also added the Superpro bushings to the camber arms too. How hard are the SP bushings?

 

[buttsy]

Right on buttsy! I see you also added the Superpro bushings to the camber arms too. How hard are the SP bushings?

I also fitted the front superpro castor bushes. And ford performance toe link bearing as well as BMR SP083R springs, ford track pack struts, steeda camber plates, steeda rear camber adjustment bracket, BMR cradle lockout kit.
Since I completed basically everything at the same time other than the BMR cradle lockout kit. I cant give a specific explanation of how "hard" the bushes are.
I do know one thing though. If I had my time again, I would do it exactly the same way. I am finally in love with this car. It feels OEM. It doesnt feel like a modified car. Firm but not harsh. Road noise has actually been reduced from when I just had the lockout kit only, which suprised me.

 

[NGOT8R]

Buttsy, did you have any trouble getting the RLCA torqued back down to the 166 ft-lbs when reinstalling them? It sure seems like it’s going to be a bit of a challenge, especially working around the halfshafts. I am about to go out and get started on reinstalling mine, so that I can get to the rest of my rear suspension mods and then move on to the long tube header and x-pipe install. Any Pro Tips for getting the RLCAs back in easily? Also, what are your thoughts on the Steeda adjustable camber brackets? I am considering those as well, but don’t have plans to lower my car, so I was wondering if they could still be a benefit to my overall setup? Thanks.

 

[NightmareMoon]

To the suspension experts out there; is there anything else that I am overlooking and should add to the rear suspension? I wasn’t sure if toe links and adj. camber brackets are necessary, but can order those if it makes sense to. I won’t ever track the car, but do plan on an occasional trip to the drag strip. Thanks.

yes the Ford Performance toe link bearing is worth doing. Its a lot easier to press in and out, so thats the good news.

 

[buttsy]

Buttsy, did you have any trouble getting the RLCA torqued back down to the 166 ft-lbs when reinstalling them? It sure seems like it’s going to be a bit of a challenge, especially working around the halfshafts. I am about to go out and get started on reinstalling mine, so that I can get to the rest of my rear suspension mods and then move on to the long tube header and x-pipe install. Any Pro Tips for getting the RLCAs back in easily? Also, what are your thoughts on the Steeda adjustable camber brackets? I am considering those as well, but don’t have plans to lower my car, so I was wondering if they could still be a benefit to my overall setup? Thanks.

Sorry about the delayed response. My boy jumped of the swing and broke both wrists. Fairly busy feeding and wiping here. lol.
To answer your questions. When I did the install I only had a 200nm torque wrench. So I tightened the subframe and chassis side control arms as best as possible. And only witness marked with a paint pen the bolts that I actually got to spec. Then when I get the allignment completed on the hoist they would be completed then. Which happened to be yesterday.All done.
The Steeda rear camber adjusting brackets are only for ease of adjustment. They do NOT increase the range of camber available. With the BMR SP083R springs I have them adjusted as positive as possible. -1.5 degrees. Without the steeda kit, I wish you luck in adjusting the camber with any real accuracy or sanity left by the end. My alignment by a professional chassis tuner took approx 2.5hrs which included torqing 10 bolts and a 15 min test drive. $200 Aud.
As for installing the lower control arm. I had the car on stands and the rear subframe completely disconnected but supported under the diff. And raised and lowered depending on what room i needed and on what side. Support the left of the diff and lower the jack to gain room on the right. vice versa. From memory I believe I installed the rear inner bolt first due to it being a heim joint and the front being the superpro poly bush. It was not hard.
Sorry if I missed your install.
I will post my alignment report for anyone that is interested.

 

[NGOT8R]

No worries buttsy. I’m sorry to hear about your boy and do wish him a speedy recovery. Yes, I managed to get the RLCAs installed. It just took a while working by myself and getting creative with jacks, stands and paint buckets to gain the necessary height. LOL, but hey, I made it work. I ended up staying with the stock camber arms for now. I can always add those and the adjustable toe links down the road if they become necessary. I have to drop the cradle one more time to install the differential bushings and support bracket and then I can call that part of the mods done.

 

[buttsy]

No worries buttsy. I’m sorry to hear about your boy and do wish him a speedy recovery. Yes, I managed to get the RLCAs installed. It just took a while working by myself and getting creative with jacks, stands and paint buckets to gain the necessary height. LOL, but hey, I made it work. I ended up staying with the stock camber arms for now. I can always add those and the adjustable toe links down the road if they become necessary. I have to drop the cradle one more time to install the differential bushings and support bracket and then I can call that part of the mods done.

That is hillarious!! I also used paint tins. lol. Classic. You do what you have to do sometimes.

 

[Bluemustang]

I also fitted the front superpro castor bushes. And ford performance toe link bearing as well as BMR SP083R springs, ford track pack struts, steeda camber plates, steeda rear camber adjustment bracket, BMR cradle lockout kit.
Since I completed basically everything at the same time other than the BMR cradle lockout kit. I cant give a specific explanation of how "hard" the bushes are.
I do know one thing though. If I had my time again, I would do it exactly the same way. I am finally in love with this car. It feels OEM. It doesnt feel like a modified car. Firm but not harsh. Road noise has actually been reduced from when I just had the lockout kit only, which suprised me.

Your observations are interesting. You've done more superpro bushings than anyone I've seen. This makes me wonder if doing superpro bushings throughout instead of bearings would keep 90% of the handling improvement while maintaining the OEM feel.

 

[buttsy]

Your observations are interesting. You've done more superpro bushings than anyone I've seen. This makes me wonder if doing superpro bushings throughout instead of bearings would keep 90% of the handling improvement while maintaining the OEM feel.

One thing I have learnt in life is that when a person comments on how a car performs than you have to find out what their experiences are.
If I take my 75 year old dad for a drive in the mustang, then he believes it is quick and handles well stock. He drives a landcruiser.
If I take my mate that tracks a 750hp supra for a drive. Not so quick.
I owned a 500hp evo 7. Stock suspension. That car was harsh. But such a solid well built car. Very chuckable. The mustang now is not harsh. It is firm. Harsh brings out the rattles in a car.
I have also recently driven a great mates Alfa romeo quadrifoglia qv. I am due for another drive soon. But from memory I would say that the ride quality is very similar. The Alfa did feel smaller though. Of course. But both are firm confident inspiring cars. Now. The mustang from the factory is indirect and wallowy. Very dissapointing. Once modified. Amazing.
I cant comment on whether bearings are harsher or better or worse. I havent driven a mustang with them fitted. But I have no complaints with my setup so far. Love it.
Good luck. Either way. I believe you will love it.

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