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RLCA Help: Spherical Bearing vs. Poly Bushing

RLCA: Poly Bushing or Spherical Bearing?


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TeeLew

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Let's take a look at the bushing side of things.

On the rear lower forward pickup and the front tension link, these bushings have to accept off-axis motion. This is the 'bind' that is often mentioned. Can we put this into perspective a little? Referenced from static ride, most suspension travel is kept within +/- 5 deg of suspension articulation. Practically all motion is contained within +/- 10 deg of suspension movement. The greater portion of that articulation is taken 'on-axis', with the bushing pivoting relative to the inner crush sleeve. Having said this, there will be a portion of the motion that deflects the bushing. Bushing deflection is not 'bind' any more than coil spring deflection is 'bind'.

When we talk about 'bind' we're talking about things which are meant to deflect, but, for one reason or another, cannot. The type of bushings that we are dealing with are meant to deflect a certain amount. That is not 'bind'; it's purposeful deflection. An obvious example of bind is a spring operating in 'coil-bind', which means it has run out of available travel and the coils are touching. Another example with be a suspension mount which fouls a control arm artificially limiting it's travel.

The SuperPro bushings (I can't speak to the Energy ones), are conical on the ends which contact the suspension mounts. On both the front and rear forward points, The deflection as it goes through normal travel is on the order of a couple mm. We are not talking about some wadded-up, twisted bushing at the limits of its strength. We're talking about a piece of polyurethane deflecting a small amount well within it's elastic limits.

Does the Poly bushing deflect radially when the suspension in loaded in a corner? Of course! It's not meant to have the same installation stiffness as a spherical bearing. Is it less deflection than the stock bonded rubber bushing? Significantly. For one, the rubber bushings take all of their motion elastically, there is no rotation on an inner bonded crush sleeve. Second, the rubber is not only significantly softer than Poly (I agree with the roughly shore 70 estimate of the Superpro material), but, along with the softer material, the stock bushings are often formed with voids that exist to allow different stiffnesses in different deflection modes. Poly bushings provide a significant increase in installation stiffness and a significant decrease in unwanted radial deflection due to cornering loads. I don't have any measurements to quantify the differences in cornering deflection, but it's fair to say that subjectively, the difference is quite large.

Spherical bearings work well in all sorts of applications, but I'm personally hesitant to using them on street cars for a couple reasons. NVH has 3 components. The 'V' is the one that concerns me. Any spherical will necessarily transmit a lot of high-frequency vibrational content into the chassis and there is nothing to soften the impulse loads produced by pot-holes, frost heaves or other all-to-common road imperfections. These are the types of loads which can produce long-term stress fractures and cracking in a chassis. Trying to weld up stress cracks in a chassis is not the most entertaining of tasks (Been there).

Further, sphericals are a service item. 90k miles on a spherical, KellTrac? Congrats, I guess, but I don't run them longer than about 10k when stressed at a higher level. On the street, maybe 20k? Regardless, they do eventually develop lash, corrosion and wear. They are not an item which you can just ignore. The sealing of Ford sphericals is a good step toward a longer life.

In my world, both have appropriate applications. A car which primarily street driven but does some weekend warrior duty will be noticeably improved by installing something like the SuperPro Poly bushings and its manners on the street will be essentially unchanged. A car which is more track-oriented or is used competitively will benefit from the additional installation stiffness of a spherical and its owner will likely have no issue overlooking a relatively minor change in street manners or the additional maintenance.

I've ran my poly bushings for about a year at this point. I have a set of Steeda (w/ extended ball joint studs) front control arms which have sphericals. When they go on, I'll be able to make more of a comparison. I'm not expecting for the difference to be massive, but I'm keeping an open mind. I'll be sure to report back.
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SlowStangGT

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@TeeLew How many miles have you driven on them so far? I've greased the hell out of them, and I'm hoping to be squeak free for at least 30k miles :)
 

Norm Peterson

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Let's take a look at the bushing side of things.

On the rear lower forward pickup and the front tension link, these bushings have to accept off-axis motion. This is the 'bind' that is often mentioned. Can we put this into perspective a little? Referenced from static ride, most suspension travel is kept within +/- 5 deg of suspension articulation. Practically all motion is contained within +/- 10 deg of suspension movement. The greater portion of that articulation is taken 'on-axis', with the bushing pivoting relative to the inner crush sleeve. Having said this, there will be a portion of the motion that deflects the bushing. Bushing deflection is not 'bind' any more than coil spring deflection is 'bind'.
This ^^^ . At least not in a purely geometric sense.

What you are seeing is the consequence of bushing distortion occurring against the bushing's own material stiffnesses. If anything it's an "unwanted joint stiffness" thing, where you'd like the joint to not oppose the off-axis rotations and not induce unwanted forces into your suspension.

Unfortunately, it seems we're stuck with a term that probably came out of observations in the field by people who probably weren't engineers or familiar with cylindrical bushing behavior.


Norm
 

West TX GT

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I definitely hear you out on this, however the reason why I am installing this is to
- A: Prioritize NVH reduction
- B: Reduce the rubber bushing binding
- C: Replace the rubber bushing with something that won't degrade as quickly over time

Point C is a huge reason why I was hesitant to go with the spherical bearing in the rear, given the various posts on RLCA bearing "clunking" noises growing over time. It's *much* more of a PITA to replace the RLCA bearing than the tension link up front; definitely makes me paranoid of them 🙃

I plan on using this as a daily driver with occasional HPDE use, and do not plan on doing *any* power mods. For wheel hop, the BMR CB005 should be all that I need, as most of my hard acceleration will be powering out of corners and not from hard launches. Whatever deflection that remains, I'm not convinced that it will be a problem for my particular use case
On my first S550 toe link bearings and RCLA bearings were the first thing I changed (along with springs and dampers). No significant NVH change. I sold the car to a good friend and it now had 70,000+ miles. It still has no significant NVH from the bearings. Diff inserts are another story. After the install I said I would never do it again even though it was my favorite mod. I am gearing up to do it again on my current car because once you know how it can feel like vs what it does feel like (stock) you can't let it go. If you are going to go through a shitty install on Jack stands go full hog because half measures aren't worth the effort involved, at least not to me.
 

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SlowStangGT

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Hi @SlowStangGT have you managed to fit these up?
Yup! Been busy with work, so I haven't gotten too much time to drive the car after the alignment.
Note that I installed this along with shocks, springs, sways, and the CB005, so it's hard to tell which component is responsible for each of the perceived effects.

Initial Impressions: I have no complaints regarding the rear so far, though I have yet to push it to the limit. I drove through some backroads on the way home from the alignment shop, the rear digs in super hard compared to before, with no sign of wheel hop. The rear/cradle still feels *slightly* loose: I can't figure out if it's the RLCA poly or if the BMR CB005 is not enough to stop the rear/cradle shift. Still, I feel like around 90% of the cradle and [unwanted] control arm movement is gone, so it's still a huge win. Perhaps I'll consider the BMR CB762 later down the road and see if things improve.

Right now, I have my front sway bar set on the middle setting which seems to be causing a little bit of understeer with my 285/35r19 PS4S, hopefully I'll find some time this weekend to set the sway bars to full soft to combat this and get to play around with the car a bit more.

Ideally, I'd like to see how it behaves on the track during hard cornering. For now, my car needs to be dual purpose: as a daily as well as an occasional track day car. Perhaps the day will come when I decide to go with the BK055, but I doubt I'll reach the level of driver skill and experience required to truly notice the difference any time soon 🙃
 
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GTP

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I am working up the courage to install the Steeda RLCA bearings that I've had since my previous Mustang. Having studied up on several threads, I think that I can get the control arms out and the bushings out without too much problem.

My concern is taking them to a shop to have them pressed in successfully. I've read some guys go to speed shops, regular shops, even machine shops.

How do I go about finding the right place and price?
 

TeeLew

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My concern is taking them to a shop to have them pressed in successfully. I've read some guys go to speed shops, regular shops, even machine shops.

How do I go about finding the right place and price?
You're in Indy. Just find a machine shop which works with the racers. There are plenty in Brownsburg.
 

kbreeze72

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Mind fried.
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