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kilobravo

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I personally would just use the basic coating, then apply a chosen topper as needed.
Thanks for the detailed answer, D but that brings up another couple questions although they're related.

1) Since many outfits recommend applying the topper immediately after the ceramic, is it still acceptable when ceramic has been applied months or years previously?

2) Can you continually use a topper (Reload for me,) over an extended period of time (as above,) without issues or, in your opinion, is there a limit to topper application where it is no longer advisable to continue with it?
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DFB5.0

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Thanks for the detailed answer, D but that brings up another couple questions although they're related.

1) Since many outfits recommend applying the topper immediately after the ceramic, is it still acceptable when ceramic has been applied months or years previously?

2) Can you continually use a topper (Reload for me,) over an extended period of time (as above,) without issues or, in your opinion, is there a limit to topper application where it is no longer advisable to continue with it?
1) If you are referring to Gliss, then I guess you could apply it down the track, but it may not last as long as if it was applied after the base layer, in effect curing as one. If you are referring to Reload, no problem at all.

2) Reload in theory could be used on a regular basis, but it may end up working against you if you and exhibit streaking due to excessive build up. Once every two months would be fine. At which point, you then have to wonder which is providing the protection after a few years, the topper or the coating?
 

m3incorp

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I figured you had to be the same person. I had a C7 Z06 back then and we emailed back and forth quite a few times....Blackfire products back then..... I ended up selling the Z06 thinking I would get the new C8 Z06 but it came in with a lot higher price than expected and I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet. I remember when you sold your Stingray and bought the Camaro. I am enjoying the Mustang also and couldn't pass on the color and the ability to have the Roush Kit installed while the car was brand new.

yup, and the camaro forum…..

looking back, I never should’ve sold the C7, what a wonderful car. So then I went through a few Camaros with v6 engines, a few company cars, but I always yearned for V8. This 5.0 came along at Carmax with perfect specs, so I picked it up. Couldn’t be happier.
 

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just to keep the discussion going, one thing in the past few years I started to look at is the cost of some of the Detailing products are out there and what you get for that. I go back all the way to the first coating days of optiicoat when you bought it in a syringe for 89 bucks, and then all the way through the Carpro, Adams and gyeon products and what not. I no longer will pay 70 to $80-$90 for a product that when I get done doesn’t have four times the gloss of some of the products that are 20 or $30. Granted the durability of the high priced items is much better, but the ease of application of the “coating light “sprays is so easy I don’t mind doing it 2,3,4 times as often as I would do with something like cquartzUK. Most recently I picked up some Cerakote sealant and it’s great gloss, all for 20 bucks, even if I have to put it on every 2 to 3months it’s a better cost solution for me. product after a base coating like can coat will still be elixir. It’s just so fool proof.

I remember the story early on in2008 from Dr. G at optimum as to why he perfected the coatings, and it was for detailers that wanted to put something on that was rather permanent for jobs that they could not get back to for 3 to 4 months. Something that would remain glossy on a semi-permanent basis. I really don’t have the need for a product like that, but I understand, many do.
 
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DFB5.0

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I remember the story early on from Dr. G at optimum as to why he perfected the coatings, and it was for detailers that wanted to put something on that was rather permanent for jobs that they could not get back to for 3 to 4 months. Something that would remain glossy on a semi-permanent basis. I really don’t have the need for a product like that, but I understand, many do.
That is exactly what kept me away from ceramic coatings until recently, and even then, it was to try something new. My cars, like many, are garage queens. That means I don't really need a multi-year coating, they are often getting something applied to them so the benifit would be wasted on me. I guess that circles back to Bead Maker, it doesn't last long in the "wild", but on my cars, the boost in gloss and slickness is easy to achieve and satisfies my needs.

Up until the last couple of weeks, I had intended to ceramic coat my new car when it arrives with Gyeon Mohs. But I'm having second thoughts and I'm actually considering dust using a traditional wax or sealant, Collinite 845 is an oldie but is so very satisfying to apply and look at.
 

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glene

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garage queens here too…..

yep, collinite is great stuf, Rejex also ….I used to buy that by the gallon… But once the “wipe on walk away“ polymer products got released like blackfire crystal seal or ultima paint guard plus, I love the fact that I didn’t need to “wax off“….I still like that about the new spray and wipes… I hate elbow greasing off dried thick Haze……
 
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markayash

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That is exactly what kept me away from ceramic coatings until recently, and even then, it was to try something new. My cars, like many, are garage queens. That means I don't really need a multi-year coating, they are often getting something applied to them so the benifit would be wasted on me. I guess that circles back to Bead Maker, it doesn't last long in the "wild", but on my cars, the boost in gloss and slickness is easy to achieve and satisfies my needs.

Up until the last couple of weeks, I had intended to ceramic coat my new car when it arrives with Gyeon Mohs. But I'm having second thoughts and I'm actually considering dust using a traditional wax or sealant, Collinite 845 is an oldie but is so very satisfying to apply and look at.
If your Car is red look at Gyeon pure. It gave my car an unbelievable thick candy look. I agree on not needing a 3 year coating but would do it again 😎
 

skinnyb

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If your Car is red look at Gyeon pure. It gave my car an unbelievable thick candy look. I agree on not needing a 3 year coating but would do it again 😎
I'm waffling between Syncro (MOHS and Skin mix) or the Pure for my daily driver next time. I have can coat on it now and it is just about gone in 9 months however I drive 35-40K miles a year and it sits outside 24/7. Then top with Adams Slick n Slide or Beadmaker every wash as a drying aid.

That said, I had DPC9 (Dallas Paint Correction) applied to my Mustang professionally and it being a garage queen it is absolutely stunning. So easy to keep clean even using rinseless wash.
 

kilobravo

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2) Once every two months would be fine. At which point, you then have to wonder which is providing the protection after a few years, the topper or the coating?
Yep, I was referring to Reload, should have been more clear, D.

But your last sentence has been my thought for some time. I guess you would have to use Reset or similar to find out what's left of the coating and I may just do that next time I give her a bath.
 
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markayash

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I'm waffling between Syncro (MOHS and Skin mix) or the Pure for my daily driver next time. I have can coat on it now and it is just about gone in 9 months however I drive 35-40K miles a year and it sits outside 24/7. Then top with Adams Slick n Slide or Beadmaker every wash as a drying aid.

That said, I had DPC9 (Dallas Paint Correction) applied to my Mustang professionally and it being a garage queen it is absolutely stunning. So easy to keep clean even using rinseless wash.
I watched a video comparing all the gyeon coatings and they said Pure was great for red and blue cars and weren’t kidding. Some folks complained about wiping it off but I did 2 cars and had no issues

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skinnyb

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I watched a video comparing all the gyeon coatings and they said Pure was great for red and blue cars and weren’t kidding. Some folks complained about wiping it off but I did 2 cars and had no issues

IMG_1423.jpeg
My Mazda is called Polymetal Gray. I'm mainly going after durability on it, because I drive so much and it stays outside. That's why I was gonna go with the Syncro

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GrabberBargeCaptain

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My Mazda is called Polymetal Gray. I'm mainly going after durability on it, because I drive so much and it stays outside. That's why I was gonna go with the Syncro

IMG_0302.jpeg
My wife has the same paint on her CX5-carbon edition turbo.

I ceramic coated it with Cquartz UK 3.0 (2 coats) in 2021 and it still beads like a mfer today, no toppers. Just when I think it's done, i just wash the car and it comes back.. just have to clean the dirt off the surface.

I wish the Ford paint corrected as easily, and tbh I haven't had any issues with installing swirl marks since my polish job.
 

skinnyb

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My wife has the same paint on her CX5-carbon edition turbo.

I ceramic coated it with Cquartz UK 3.0 (2 coats) in 2021 and it still beads like a mfer today, no toppers. Just when I think it's done, i just wash the car and it comes back.. just have to clean the dirt off the surface.

I wish the Ford paint corrected as easily, and tbh I haven't had any issues with installing swirl marks since my polish job.
I've thought about CQuartz. I have DLux on all the black plastic trim and it does fantastic. Have Gyeon Cancoat on it now, it has been great but longevity is a little to be desired, however its basically a spray and wipe coating, not known to be very durable. I use Beadmaker after each wash and also use ONR Wash N wax when I do rinseless here lately and it works really well. I do love my Carbon edition, I went with the Non turbo. Almost 73K miles in right at 2 years, bought end of February 2022.

As for my Mustang, I had it professionally done LOL. I didn't want to mess with the metallic Grabber blue myself :)
 

MAGS1

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Can you continually use a topper (Reload for me,) over an extended period of time (as above,) without issues
I think a lot of it depends on the topper and the coating. FWIW, my car is coated with a coating from Ethos and I use Ethos Resist as a topper. Resist is formulated to work with Ethos coatings so they do work well together. I apply every 4-6 months, it helps boost slickness and rejuvenate the hydrophobic properties of the coating. It can also be used as a stand alone sealant, so I’m cautious not to use it too often as it could start to clog up the coating (coatings are actually porous). I’m not well versed with Reload, so I think D’s response is the go-to for that particular product for sure. But long answer short, yes it is possible for a topper to start to work against or be a detriment to the coating if over applied.
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