OPG Install Tips

[mmakam2]

Your going the same route I am MMR Tensioners Brackets Secondary Chains New ARP Bolts!! Might as well while your in there. Are you thinking of boosting? If so what route are you going?

Yea im doing all this in preparation for twin 6266 billet turbos. I only ordered a Reische 170 thermostat. I am skipping the secondary chains and mmr tensioners for now.

i've heard the oem tensioners work really well on the 15+, and the secondaries may not be necessary for stock valve springs. Hope I'm right..

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[madlag]

I think I'm going to attempt this myself guys. Plan is to drop the pan and leave the k member in place. As long as I am able to clean up the mating surface of old RTV it shouldn't be an issue using the old gaskets with only 3k miles on the car.

Are all the pan bolts easily accessible with the belly pan off? How much coolant do we lose in this process?

thats exactly what I did. You can get to all the bolts albeit not easily. RTV'ing the back of the pan is tricky but it can be done. you will lose nearly all the coolant (I did at least). Watch for the oring to roll out of its groove on each side of the pan.

 

[Paperdude2016]

Installed my MMR billet gear set today. I have 7500 miles on a 2016 GT 350 so I decided to change all gaskets. I have a lift in my garage so I dropped the k member down about 5 inches and lifted the motor up off the mounts about 2 inches process was pretty straight forward. I know some of you guys have done this without removing the oil pan but I have to believe that would have been a bear of a job. Waiting for my Gen 5 Whipple complete kit and will install as soon as it comes. Will use standard Whipple tune at this time looking to run 10-11 lbs boost and shooting for about 750 WRHP. Will take to a Dyno when complete to verify the build.

 

[cdh027]

Installed my MMR billet gear set today. I have 7500 miles on a 2016 GT 350 so I decided to change all gaskets. I have a lift in my garage so I dropped the k member down about 5 inches and lifted the motor up off the mounts about 2 inches process was pretty straight forward. I know some of you guys have done this without removing the oil pan but I have to believe that would have been a bear of a job. Waiting for my Gen 5 Whipple complete kit and will install as soon as it comes. Will use standard Whipple tune at this time looking to run 10-11 lbs boost and shooting for about 750 WRHP. Will take to a Dyno when complete to verify the build.

I want the gen 5 as well, but tossing the motor warranty this early scares me.

 

[FLATPLANE]

I installed the Boundry Gears in my car a few weeks ago. Was not that bad of a job, although I have access to a lift and I own a ton of tools. The hardest part was dropping the pan There are 2 bolts on the passenger side where the steering rack is located that may have you cursing But all in all was relatively smooth. Best advice I can give you is go slow read the manual and Prime the engine a ton! You will hear some ticking. upon startup and its very nerve racking But Im glad I took on the job and Im happy I didnt have another shop tackle it. I would have been wondering my whole life "How bad would it have been if I just did it?" lol

 

[cdh027]

Are OPG 100% necessary when going forced induction? Are they guaranteed to fail if say running the Whipple 3.0 kit at standard boost?

 

[honeybadger]

Just an FYI - you cant prime the coyote/voodoo using the starter. Doesn't spin it fast enough to build pressure. Only way is to pressurize the system with a pre-oiler

 

[madlag]

Just an FYI - you cant prime the coyote/voodoo using the starter. Doesn't spin it fast enough to build pressure. Only way is to pressurize the system with a pre-oiler

I built oil pressure using this method. I also do it at at every oil change.

Are OPG 100% necessary when going forced induction? Are they guaranteed to fail if say running the Whipple 3.0 kit at standard boost?

It’s a gamble not to do it imo. They’re know to fail stock.

 

[Tank]

Those of you replacing the OPG, could you post pics and or report on the condition of the OEM like @honeybadger did on the first page?

Thanks

 

[honeybadger]

I built oil pressure using this method. I also do it at at every oil change.



It’s a gamble not to do it imo. They’re know to fail stock.

You can't build enough to coat the bearings, cams, etc. I spoke directly to Ford about this. Even if you could, you'd still be spinning the crank/cams/etc. on dry-ish bearings until the oil came in. If your motor has been sitting for a while you had it open, this is risky and a cheap pre-oiler should be used.

 

[JAJ]

Where has the discussion/debate gone on crank dampers? I'm pretty sure that I recall some dialog here or on another forum that indicated that OPG failures can be a result of inadequate crank damping, and that forged OPG's are a bandaid solution when the real problem is the damper. Am I remembering correctly or do I have it all wrong?

 

[FLATPLANE]

Those of you replacing the OPG, could you post pics and or report on the condition of the OEM like @honeybadger did on the first page?

Thanks

Here is mine

 

[FLATPLANE]

You can't build enough to coat the bearings, cams, etc. I spoke directly to Ford about this. Even if you could, you'd still be spinning the crank/cams/etc. on dry-ish bearings until the oil came in. If your motor has been sitting for a while you had it open, this is risky and a cheap pre-oiler should be used.

I can attest to this! Listen to @honeybadger I was not getting enough oil pressure to properly fill the lash adjusters with oil and I though I ruined my motor!

 

[FLATPLANE]

 

[honeybadger]

I can attest to this! Listen to @honeybadger I was not getting enough oil pressure to properly fill the lash adjusters with oil and I though I ruined my motor!

ahh, I completely forgot about the lash adjusters/tensioners. Great point.

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