OPG Install Tips

[madlag]

Hey guys, in preparation of my pro charger install, I'll be upgrading the OPG/CS in my R. Can anyone share any tips, advice or what they learned going the process of doing their own on the 5.2? Please hold the comments about just "take it somewhere" to have them do it. Not my style.

Did you lift the motor up, remove the oil pan completely? Run into the need for any special tools to make it easier, etc. New oil pan o-ring needed? What all gaskets do I need to order ahead of time? Educate me lol

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[JAJ]

I haven't done it, but I have the factory manual and it's a pretty extensive take-apart and put-together job.

I'd suggest that you go to https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct and buy the 72-hour license to the current online service manual - the one the dealers use. For $22 you can access the instructions for your VIN and print them off, complete with all the torque settings, parts and special tools required.

Obviously you'll also get input from folks who's done it and they'll have different approaches - having the Ford manual is a good starting point, but the community might offer some shortcuts that make it easier.

Overall the basic approach is pull the valve covers, remove the front cover, remove the timing chains, remove the pan, pull the sprocket and replace the pump. From the manual, it looks tedious but not complicated. The special tools are minimal - an engine lifting frame and support bar to hold the engine in place while you lower the subframe 4", a special wrench to turn the crank when working on the timing chains and a jack to support the subframe when it's disconnected from the chassis. That's about it. The factory manual has all the torque settings and there's a lot of them - many are torque plus degrees, so having the exact information is probably important.

Have fun!

 

[Burkey]

Hey guys, in preparation of my pro charger install, I'll be upgrading the OPG/CS in my R. Can anyone share any tips, advice or what they learned going the process of doing their own on the 5.2? Please hold the comments about just "take it somewhere" to have them do it. Not my style.

Did you lift the motor up, remove the oil pan completely? Run into the need for any special tools to make it easier, etc. New oil pan o-ring needed? What all gaskets do I need to order ahead of time? Educate me lol

You’ll need a gear puller to get the crank pulley off obviously.
To get it back on, I used a length of all-thread and a couple of nuts. I think it’s better to have the all-thread fully engaged in the crank, using the nuts to pull the pulley on, rather than trying to use a bolt that may only have partial engagement in the thread AND you’re putting all of the binding forces into the crank thread that way.
You’ll want an ARP bolt (I don’t recall the part number)
You’ll want some sealant (ford specify a particular part number, I used the Permatex equivalent).
There’s a few really good stab by step threads on other websites.
I didn’t bother with following Fords procedure for the cam timing. If you mark the crank sprocket with a paint pen, you can easily use your phone in reverse camera mode to establish correct position. You’ll just need to wriggle the crank backward and forward slightly to get the chains on/off.
Finally, one of the pump bolts is a bitch.

See this thread here for the easiest solution.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tip-opg-cs-install.105993/

Best of luck with it
(I did NOT drop the subframe or require any “special” tools other than the gear puller)

Page 5 of this thread shows what I did with the paint marker. The image shown was taken with the phone camera in selfie mode. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/diy-whipple-on-a-budget-of-sorts.101642/page-5

 

[bauern]

You’ll need a gear puller to get the crank pulley off obviously.
To get it back on, I used a length of all-thread and a couple of nuts. I think it’s better to have the all-thread fully engaged in the crank, using the nuts to pull the pulley on, rather than trying to use a bolt that may only have partial engagement in the thread AND you’re putting all of the binding forces into the crank thread that way.
You’ll want an ARP bolt (I don’t recall the part number)
You’ll want some sealant (ford specify a particular part number, I used the Permatex equivalent).
There’s a few really good stab by step threads on other websites.
I didn’t bother with following Fords procedure for the cam timing. If you mark the crank sprocket with a paint pen, you can easily use your phone in reverse camera mode to establish correct position. You’ll just need to wriggle the crank backward and forward slightly to get the chains on/off.
Finally, one of the pump bolts is a bitch.

See this thread here for the easiest solution.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tip-opg-cs-install.105993/

Best of luck with it
(I did NOT drop the subframe or require any “special” tools other than the gear puller)

Page 5 of this thread shows what I did with the paint marker. The image shown was taken with the phone camera in selfie mode. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/diy-whipple-on-a-budget-of-sorts.101642/page-5

The GT350 5.2 pick up is integral to the oil pan. Totally different from a 5.0. You do have to drop the pan which means you also need to drop the K member to access the oil pan bolts. In the attached pdf, you can see the "pick up tube" rises from the front of the pan an slips into the oil pump.

 

[madlag]

I haven't done it, but I have the factory manual and it's a pretty extensive take-apart and put-together job.

I'd suggest that you go to https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct and buy the 72-hour license to the current online service manual - the one the dealers use. For $22 you can access the instructions for your VIN and print them off, complete with all the torque settings, parts and special tools required.

Obviously you'll also get input from folks who's done it and they'll have different approaches - having the Ford manual is a good starting point, but the community might offer some shortcuts that make it easier.

Overall the basic approach is pull the valve covers, remove the front cover, remove the timing chains, remove the pan, pull the sprocket and replace the pump. From the manual, it looks tedious but not complicated. The special tools are minimal - an engine lifting frame and support bar to hold the engine in place while you lower the subframe 4", a special wrench to turn the crank when working on the timing chains and a jack to support the subframe when it's disconnected from the chassis. That's about it. The factory manual has all the torque settings and there's a lot of them - many are torque plus degrees, so having the exact information is probably important.

Have fun!

That’s a good idea actually. I also have the service manual. Only part that aggravates me is the oil pan removal. Either lift the motor or drop the K? Dang.

The GT350 5.2 pick up is integral to the oil pan. Totally different from a 5.0. You do have to drop the pan which means you also need to drop the K member to access the oil pan bolts. In the attached pdf, you can see the "pick up tube" rises from the front of the pan an slips into the oil pump.

Agree. Saw a couple folks say they managed to get theirs out without removing the pan completely but not sure I’m comfortable half assing it. If I pull the pan it’s getting a new gasket and sealant.


How much trouble is the K frame to lower?

 

[honeybadger]

Good timing on this thread. I am planning on dropping my engine out next weekend. I'll let you know what I learn. I'll also being replacing my OPG/CS.

 

[honeybadger]

Has anyone found the part # for the oil pump pickup seal? The Service Manual recommends replacing it

 

[JCSIX13]

I did this when I installed my Whipple supercharger. You do NOT have to drop the k member. Just remove all the bolts that hold on the oil pan and drop it down. the pick up will have enough room to come out and you can remove the oil pump. One thing I learned while doing it was the easiest way to remove and replace the timing chains so that they keep the correct timing was to use the original balancer bolt ( this is a one time use bolt as you can not reuse it and get accurate toque readings) to turn the motor clockwise and then back counter clockwise. Some videos show only turning it clockwise a hole bunch and that makes it to easy to mess up the engine timing.

just take your time and follow the ford engine assembly guide.

 

[JCSIX13]

engine assembly guide

 

[JCSIX13]

Has anyone found the part # for the oil pump pickup seal? The Service Manual recommends replacing it

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...yMDE2JnQ9c2hlbGJ5LWd0MzUwJmU9NS0ybC12OC1nYXM=

GR3Z-6626-A

 

[honeybadger]

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-inlet-tube-gasket-gr3z6626a/?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtcGFydHMmaT1KQzE1MzA1NSZyPTEyJmE9Zm9yZCZvPW11c3RhbmcmeT0yMDE2JnQ9c2hlbGJ5LWd0MzUwJmU9NS0ybC12OC1nYXM=

GR3Z-6626-A

My man! Thanks!

 

[madlag]

I did this when I installed my Whipple supercharger. You do NOT have to drop the k member. Just remove all the bolts that hold on the oil pan and drop it down. the pick up will have enough room to come out and you can remove the oil pump. One thing I learned while doing it was the easiest way to remove and replace the timing chains so that they keep the correct timing was to use the original balancer bolt ( this is a one time use bolt as you can not reuse it and get accurate toque readings) to turn the motor clockwise and then back counter clockwise. Some videos show only turning it clockwise a hole bunch and that makes it to easy to mess up the engine timing.

just take your time and follow the ford engine assembly guide.

Thanks bro. Any issues getting a good seal on the pan afterwards? I’m low miles so I suspect my pan o-ring is fine. What about sealant?

Good timing on this thread. I am planning on dropping my engine out next weekend. I'll let you know what I learn. I'll also being replacing my OPG/CS.

Amen brutha. What you doing to yours?

 

[JCSIX13]

Thanks bro. Any issues getting a good seal on the pan afterwards? I’m low miles so I suspect my pan o-ring is fine. What about sealant?


Amen brutha. What you doing to yours?

I used the motorcraft sealant only were the assembly instructions said to and I have no leeks.

 

[honeybadger]

Amen brutha. What you doing to yours?

Been having electrical problems due to a pinched engine harness. Dropping to replace. While it's out, doing a billet OPG/CS and adding the FP350S oil cooler

 

[madlag]

Been having electrical problems due to a pinched engine harness. Dropping to replace. While it's out, doing a billet OPG/CS and adding the FP350S oil cooler

Good idea on the upgraded oil cooler. Be interested to see it. You have a link to it?

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