Oil Brand Question

[21M5033]

What do you consider "full break in"??

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[sakman84]

I would agree with this statement ONLY if the factory filled out is in fact a specific BREAK-IN OIL**

Meaning it contains higher zinc and phosphor content then your average oil.

The only way to know if the factory filled out is indeed special is to send it out to blackstone labs for analysis, which i plan to do.

Here is the analysis of my factory fill.

 

[Traffic22]

Amsoil or Morotcraft for the engine, BG for the trans (haven’t swapped yet) and the rear diff.

Got turned onto BG by a Ford master mechanic and fellow Lemons racer last year. We’ve been using BG in the rear diff of our lemons car since and it’s amazing how much abuse it holds up to.

 

[TEAsGrabber]

What do you consider "full break in"??

I'm just over 5000 miles today and I checked and have 12% Oil Life left! 15 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Plat waiting!

 

[SheepDog]

I'm just over 5000 miles today and I checked and have 12% Oil Life left! 15 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Plat waiting!

15 Quarts?

 

[Striker01]

Here is the analysis of my factory fill.

ty for posting that- i like that moly content is pretty high- the zinc and phos levels are low. I wouldnt be surprised over the next few years that these counts fall dramatically. If that's the case, you wont be seeing engines lasting 200-300K miles. That will be a bygone era. EPA will push for it.

 

[EFI]

Who care if brand X has 20% more “protection” than brand Z if your engine will last 250.000 with brand z???

For severe use, that 20% more protection could mean the difference between a seized engine or one that lives on for another day even if you do change the oil after every event.

For street use, you are 100% right...the vast majority of oils out there will offer the same protection.

 

[luc]

For severe use, that 20% more protection could mean the difference between a seized engine or one that lives on for another day even if you do change the oil after every event.

For street use, you are 100% right...the vast majority of oils out there will offer the same protection.

Define severe use ?
My 17 pp is a track car only and i don’t change oil ( mobil1 0w40) after each event. The oil monitor take temperature and rpm’s in consideration when calculating percentage
Usually 2000 miles for me, with about 1/2 driving to the tracks and back
Yes, I blew up an engine ( and a couple of clutches) , but it was because of detonation on # 8 and not lubrication related at all

 

[sakman84]

ty for posting that- i like that moly content is pretty high- the zinc and phos levels are low. I wouldnt be surprised over the next few years that these counts fall dramatically. If that's the case, you wont be seeing engines lasting 200-300K miles. That will be a bygone era. EPA will push for it.

This sample had two track days on it which were conducted after engine break in. Details about it are here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/1st-oil-change.169641/page-3#post-3633372


I will post up my next sample when I change it. I went Penzoil Ultra Platinum. Got the Walmart deal, and the $20 rebate at the time.

 

[EFI]

Define severe use?

Exactly like yours, track use especially in hot climates. I would feel much better running a quality synthetic oil like Amsoil SS or Liqui Moly rather than some conventional off the shelf stuff. Pushing those mediocre oils at 280* every session and you'll definitely see a difference in wear over 1,000 miles on track.

 

[TEAsGrabber]

15 Quarts?

Best price on Amazon.....15 quarts almost cheaper than 10 !

 

[luc]

Exactly like yours, track use especially in hot climates. I would feel much better running a quality synthetic oil like Amsoil SS or Liqui Moly rather than some conventional off the shelf stuff. Pushing those mediocre oils at 280* every session and you'll definitely see a difference in wear over 1,000 miles on track.

No doubt that a synthetic need to be used for high temperatures. But any brand name synthetic will do the job. I simply don’t buy the Amsoil MLM marketing and bs

 

[MiamiGT350]

What do you consider "full break in"??

The GT350 supplement manual states:

BREAKING-IN​

Your vehicle requires a break-in period.​

Drive your new vehicle at least 100 mi​

(160 km) before performing extended wide​

open throttle maneuvers and at least​

1,000 mi (1,600 km) before performance​

or competition conditions.​

Note: Vary your speed frequently in order​

to give the moving parts a chance to break​

in.​

​

After 1000 miles, be sure to do a few runs at WOT which should ensure rings, etc seat properly.

 

[Skye]

Here is the analysis of my factory fill.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-oil-change-and-analysis.132878/#post-3792622

Thanks for posting.

Mine in many measurements came close to yours, and another posted in the above link.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

I always use motorcraft synthetic blend and never had issues. My 14 Coyote bought new had Synthetic blend from day one every 10K miles and my engine was mint. 1 Quart per 10K miles, ran like a champ. Had oil analysis at 120K miles with 10K miles on oil, the results speak for themselves below:

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