Oil Brand Question

[21M5033]

Is anyone using Amsoil 5W-30 in their M1's? I know I am probably opening up a "can of worms" but I am coming from a 2014 GT500 and have been using Amsoil products for the last 9 years. Many Shelby owners really did their research on oil, and many swear by Amsoil so after reading all the input, I did the same and have been extremely happy. Engine seemed to run smoother and quieter (probably in my head) but with what I have been reading about the Coyote (Tic), I wanted to get input from anyone running Amsoil before I do my first oil change. Thanks...

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[MiamiGT350]

How many miles are on your M1? Ford puts additives in the oil from the factory to aid in proper engine break-in, so it is ill-advised to change the oil too soon. It is generally believed that this is why owners are hearing the type-writer tick after their first oil change, when they are removing the factory oil.

Having said that, I highly recommend Amsoil and run it myself.

Also, many GT users add a partial to full bottle of Liqui-Moly Cera Tec to quiet the type-writer tick in the engine. This could void your engine warranty, as the manuals say to not add engine additives of any kind. Ford has long said the tick sound is normal. If you have any engine warranty claims, the first thing they'll do is check your fluids, and Cera Tec makes it a milky color.

 

[21M5033]

Thanks for the input. I only just picked up the car so I am at 200 miles. It's a weekend fun car only so I won't put many miles on and am looking to change at 1000 miles which will probably be right before winter hits here in the Northeast.

 

[Striker01]

Brand isn't nearly as important as to what the oil actually contains.

Sometime in the late 90's, the EPA (supposedly) heavily restricted the use of ZINC and Phosphor levels used in oils as ANTI wear additives. These are key elements.

Some will argue that if you dont have an old school flat tapped camshaft that there is no need for higher zinc levels and that they're bad for your catalytics. The current zinc and phos levels in motor oils sits around 700-800ppm. I personally would like to see them a bit higher at 1000-1100.

Redline Synthetics makes all their oils with a 1100/1300ppm of zinc/phos in all their oils.

If you really care about oil, i would suggest this video below of a fella making a syn oil comparison with AMSOIL and Pennzoil ULTRA PLATINUM as the top tier choices.

 

[MrMike]

Brand isn't nearly as important as to what the oil actually contains.

Sometime in the late 90's, the EPA (supposedly) heavily restricted the use of ZINC and Phosphor levels used in oils as ANTI wear additives. These are key elements.

Some will argue that if you dont have an old school flat tapped camshaft that there is no need for higher zinc levels and that they're bad for your catalytics. The current zinc and phos levels in motor oils sits around 700-800ppm. I personally would like to see them a bit higher at 1000-1100.

Redline Synthetics makes all their oils with a 1100/1300ppm of zinc/phos in all their oils.

If you really care about oil, i would suggest this video below of a fella making a syn oil comparison with AMSOIL and Pennzoil ULTRA PLATINUM as the top tier choices.

I've watched a ton of PF's videos but have never seen this one. The chart absolutely made me crack up. I kinda thought Liqui Moly was a meme but to lose to Amazon Basics oil is extra special.

 

[Striker01]

liqui moly has a line of thier mollybdenum oil's which is also a great anti wear. I used in my golf r that was stage 2 tuned and it seemed to like it for the short time i owned it.

 

[21M5033]

Wow, great video on oil. That's a deep dive and reinforces my thoughts on Amsoil. Does anyone know if Amsoil has a high Zinc level?

 

[cheeser]

I used Amsoil in the past on my 2013 GT w/blower and didnt encounter the coyote tick others have. For the Mach 1, I have been using the Penzoil Ultra Platinum based on the video as well...bit easier to get than the Amsoil.

For most of these cars with normal street driving, it doesn't appear to matter as long as oil is changed on schedule. Its more the long term impacts or extreme conditions that would warrant more concern.

 

[2021 Mach 1]

This is the only oil that I trust to put in my Mustang Mach 1: Millers Oils - Advanced Lubricants, Oils and Fuel Additives

 

[sakman84]

Continuing your deep dive on oil. Here are some good posts on oil, and the BBQ. Boron also seems to be important element in keeping or quiting the dreaded bbq tick.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/1st-oil-change.169641/page-3

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...nvo-warning-tick-content.167252/#post-3402918

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/1st-oil-change.169641/page-3

 

[SheepDog]

Amsoil 0-40 here, but thinking about trying the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0-40 SRT.

 

[MiamiGT350]

Thanks for the input. I only just picked up the car so I am at 200 miles. It's a weekend fun car only so I won't put many miles on and am looking to change at 1000 miles which will probably be right before winter hits here in the Northeast.

Ask others their opinion. I suggest you go through full break in period on your engine before the oil change.

 

[luc]

You guys are so funny with your oils…
When was the last time that you have known of a car that had the engine destroyed because of poor quality oil ?….. it’s what I thought.. never
Junkyards are full of cars that are there for other reasons than engine
Who care if brand X has 20% more “protection” than brand Z if your engine will last 250.000 with brand z???
You guys are falling prey to marketing, especially to MLM marketing
Way more important than brands, is to change it on a regular basis
I’m on my way to buy some Slick 50 and SplitFire plugs…. I heard that you don’t even need oil when using slick 50 and that SpitFire give You 20% more hp and mileage!!!

 

[Striker01]

Amsoil 0-40 here, but thinking about trying the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0-40 SRT.

I would agree with this statement ONLY if the factory filled out is in fact a specific BREAK-IN OIL**

Meaning it contains higher zinc and phosphor content then your average oil.

The only way to know if the factory filled out is indeed special is to send it out to blackstone labs for analysis, which i plan to do.

 

[MiamiGT350]

Brand isn't nearly as important as to what the oil actually contains.

Sometime in the late 90's, the EPA (supposedly) heavily restricted the use of ZINC and Phosphor levels used in oils as ANTI wear additives. These are key elements.

Some will argue that if you dont have an old school flat tapped camshaft that there is no need for higher zinc levels and that they're bad for your catalytics. The current zinc and phos levels in motor oils sits around 700-800ppm. I personally would like to see them a bit higher at 1000-1100.

Redline Synthetics makes all their oils with a 1100/1300ppm of zinc/phos in all their oils.

If you really care about oil, i would suggest this video below of a fella making a syn oil comparison with AMSOIL and Pennzoil ULTRA PLATINUM as the top tier choices.

Great video. I always enjoy watching his channel.

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