Just started the dreaded tick.

[Burgo]

Mine has the tick after an oil change but it goes away, I'll flog the crap out of it and if it blows up under warranty I'll get Ford to fix it and if it blows up out of warranty I'll buy a Ford Performance Aluminator motor and stick that in.

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[GT Pony]

I thought 0w when cold is supposed to have viscosity like water? And 5w is slightly thicker when cold?

0W when cold is still quite thick compared to any 20 thru 50 weight oil when hot. 0W is just a hair thinner when cold compared to 5W. Every engine oil made is about 5 to 7 times thicker at room temperature vs at normal engine full operating temperature of 200 F.

As far as 5W-50, I'm wondering if anyone going from 5W-20 to 5W-50 when they installed a supercharger noticed their ticking disappeared.

 

[GT Pony]

Or the tick is oil cavitation and different oils/ additives cavitate in different ways.

It's possible, but IMO if it was oil cavitation in the journal bearings I'd think more cars (not just Fords) would exhibit the ticking if hundreds of thousands of cars had all their parts within clearance specs.

That's why I think it's caused by parts being out of clearance specs. And Ford says in their SSM that it's not harmful to the engine, which means it's probably not main or rod bearings out of clearance spec, because if they were, at some point the bearings would fail. And also, if you research oil cavitation in bearings, it can be very detrimental and damaging to the bearing by eroding and pitting the surface caused by the cavitation bubbles imploding.

 

[Condor1970]

0W when cold is still quite thick compared to any 20 thru 50 weight oil when hot. 0W is just a hair thinner when cold compared to 5W. Every engine oil made is about 5 to 7 times thicker at room temperature vs at normal engine full operating temperature of 200 F.

As far as 5W-50, I'm wondering if anyone going from 5W-20 to 5W-50 when they installed a supercharger noticed their ticking disappeared.

That Street707 guy on YouTube had his switched to 5w50 MC full Syn, but isn't boosted. He still has the tick.

 

[silverflash]

i bought my first, and last new ford when i bought my 2019 mustang gt in october of 2018. it wasn't ticking when new and i was sold something that wasn't to be. It started to tick 200 miles later. Ford's labeling it normal is bogus and unethical. You buy a performance car for the visual and audio enjoyment. You like a great look and a great sound. You don't want to feel that your $45k sports car is a clunker.

a typewriter ticking away or a rattle when it shifts at 2000-3000 rpms is detrimental to the enjoyment of the vehicle.

with that said, if it remains noticeable, i am going to push for a buy back and go back to japanese cars. or at least cars where a lifetime warranty is available- like the jeeps.


i bought a car that didn't tick and i was not told it would develop a "normal" tick so i feel deceived.

the only thing that would maybe change my mind is if ford offered a lifetime warranty on the engines. I would then put an aftermarket exhaust on it- as long as it didn't void warranty- and try to forget the ticks and rattles. Barring that, they will buy mine back- eventually. I think it's time for a class action.

 

[silverflash]

I have just started the lemon law process. I reached out to the dealer and after them saying they can't do anything besides trade it in- yeah right and lose 10k+ dollars for ford's design/quality issue on a 6 month old $45k sports car- or lemon law. I have reached out to an attorney to see what the next step is. I have had good results in the past with previous car manufacturers taking back their mistakes or making things right once lawyering up. I will keep this thread posted.

don't let people/ford tell you it's normal. it's not normal for a NEW expensive sports car to sound like this!! Ford's ssm is a sham and them trying to avoid billions in losses by saying it's normal. Sorry. I wasn't born yesterday Ford.

 

[302@12psi]

How many "lemons" have you had where you have had "good luck" with attorneys? I could see maybe one or two in a life time having to go through that and honestly that would seem rare.

I continue to flip back and fourth on the topic. I've pretty settled on just running mine, keeping service receipts, and watching oil levels. If it starts to drink oil or goes down on power it should be covered by the warranty.

A lifetime warranty on the motor? How long do you plan on keeping the car? For a bit over two car payments I got a 8/125k warranty that covers more than just the motor. Still kept the total cost of my PP2 under 50k dollars. Just some things to consider.

 

[silverflash]

How many "lemons" have you had where you have had "good luck" with attorneys? I could see maybe one or two in a life time having to go through that and honestly that would seem rare.

I continue to flip back and fourth on the topic. I've pretty settled on just running mine, keeping service receipts, and watching oil levels. If it starts to drink oil or goes down on power it should be covered by the warranty.

A lifetime warranty on the motor? How long do you plan on keeping the car? For a bit over two car payments I got a 8/125k warranty that covers more than just the motor. Still kept the total cost of my PP2 under 50k dollars. Just some things to consider.

two lemons- 1 was a buy back and i bought another from same place due to transmission issues. the other was an engine knock on a nissan versa that they replaced engine on, and it still knocked, and they gave me a 100k mile warranty. not excessive at all as i have bought probably more than 12 new cars in my lifetime.

 

[GT Pony]

That Street707 guy on YouTube had his switched to 5w50 MC full Syn, but isn't boosted. He still has the tick.

On a side note and speaking of oil viscosity ... another reason I believe the BBQ tick is caused by excessive mechanical clearance and not oil cavitation is because if it was cavitation, it would be more likely or worse with a thicker oil. Meaning, the ticking would theoretically become worse in the oil pump and/or journal bearings when the oil is cold and thick, and also be worse at higher RPM when oil flow through these parts is higher. It seems the ticking is mostly noticed when thinner oil is used, and when the engine is at idle or very low RPM, which is opposite of what should occur if the ticking was caused by oil cavitation.

 

[Mrmarkmac]

My tick started 700 miles off the dealer lot. It was not there when I test drove it, or for the first month owning it. Then bam, started and loud, to the point of embarrassing to drive a Mustang GT. It sounded pathetic.

Since new, I’ve had to add 2 qts of oil. When I first noticed it was down I added a quart. Checked it a few weeks later, and it was in middle of hash mark so I added 3/4 of quart.

Before the official ford TSB that it’s “normal”, my car was at the dealer 3 weeks while they were trouble shooting it. After 3 weeks, they said drive it, and see if it gets worse or blows up. Although my tick started way before oil change, so TSB doesn’t match my case.

About 3 weeks ago, at 2500 miles on factory oil, I topped the oil right to the max on the dipstick cold, covering top hole hot (added last 1/4 quart I had from 2 quarts I bought, bringing it to exactly 2 qts added since new). Maybe it’s coincidence, but since I topped it right to the max, the tick has been reduced probably 80%-90%. It’s still there faintly after dropping in idle after cold start, and after shifting into D, holding brake with a little load on the engine, maybe 1,000-1,300 RPM. I can just hear it faintly in garage, or near a wall. After 3-5 min, it’s completly gone. Just starting cold and letting sit idle, I hear nothing now. I use to hear it very clearly, as did Ford tech just at idle.

I’m not positive, but I now believe mine was one of the cars delivered with 8 quarts from Ford. I’m going to keep checking oil weekly to see if it drops any. I’m also worried about other fluid levels like transmission, as I saw others have found that to be low from factory new.

Have not used any additives. No ceratec. Been using regular and supreme fuel. Added MC Synthetic blend 5w20 for top up.

Either age of oil, or level of oil has made a noticeable difference. Seems to coincidental that with top off using new oil; it dropped in volume.

Honestly, if I had not had the loud ‘ normal factory ford’ tick, I probably wouldn’t notice the mild tick I have today.

 

[silverflash]

just an update-

i drove the stang last night before washing her. drove about 8 miles and once she was warmed up, used sport mode some. Had an absolute blast!

before this trip and when i started her in the garage, i heard zero tick- this is important because i used the remote to start her like usual and she always ticked idling after starting cold.

i even let her idle some before going on the above trip.

after my trip iand pulled into the driveway, which is on an incline to wash her and zero tick.

After washing her and while drying, i started her up, she idled a good 5 minutes, zero tick.

pulled back into the garage, idled for a few minutes, zero tick.


i can honestly say that since the dealer changed the oil last week, i have heard no ticks. Now i have only driven her 3x since then- back from dealer, around the 8 miles block loop i drive to keep her lubed 2x. I assumed i would hear it again so that's why i started lemon law stuff- spoke with an attorney/setting up next appointments for ford to say it's "normal".

i find it hard to believe an oil change would erase the tick.

supposedly they put in 5w20 motorcraft with filter.


I am now wondering if they didn't add a little something like ceratec (spelling?).

The paranoia in me is saying they are adding this stuff in to avoid the tick and resulting claims from customers.

i HOPE they didn't and that my tick has been resolved. wishful thinking i know. is there a way to tell if they added anything on the next oil change? will the oil look funny drained? perhaps i should get an oil analysis at that time?

 

[ihc95]

I am now wondering if they didn't add a little something like ceratec (spelling?).

The paranoia in me is saying they are adding this stuff in to avoid the tick and resulting claims from customers.

i HOPE they didn't and that my tick has been resolved. wishful thinking i know. is there a way to tell if they added anything on the next oil change? will the oil look funny drained? perhaps i should get an oil analysis at that time?

I highly doubt the dealer put in any kind of oil additive. My tick also went away after my oil change but I had them use full synthetic 5w20 Motorcraft.

 

[silverflash]

wel the next change i will do myself and throw valvoline synthetic 5w20 in it. i will keep some of the drainage and send off for analysis.

 

[Kong76]

Mine has the tick after an oil change but it goes away, I'll flog the crap out of it and if it blows up under warranty I'll get Ford to fix it and if it blows up out of warranty I'll buy a Ford Performance Aluminator motor and stick that in.

absolutely my train of thought. I have already saved up for a MMR forged block. Ceratec works but I was one of the guys who had the tick return after an oil change. I used a full bottle on my 16'. No residual i guess.

 

[MKMotorsport]

Try Ceratec. It might quiet the tick down.

I personally think "snake oil" additives are a BS band aid solution. I know this particular one has wide acceptance here but none the less. Hard to imagine Ford put Z-max (more snake oil) in and documented that? WTF??

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