I snapped the strut rod

[kz]

I just ordered a new strut along with top nut, spindle bolts and nuts. I didn't have the proper tool to hold the bolt on the back of the sway bar so that could be it.
I hope the new strut and hardwares resolve the issue..

17 mm (if I remember correctly) wrench is all you need to hold the bolt on sway bar link. Just a regular open end wrench.

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[DekiDoo]

Wish i saw your thread earlier...i have a low mileage PP1 suspension that is sitting in my shed i would have sent you a strut for free my friend.

 

[Min Ahn]

Wish i saw your thread earlier...i have a low mileage PP1 suspension that is sitting in my shed i would have sent you a strut for free my friend.

I had a really good dream last night and I guess it was for this! I still have not picked up the order because I didn’t have a ride. I’ll send you my info via PM

 

[GT 550]

That's a big effort. Did you confuse ft/lb with Nm?

 

[BmacIL]

Because torque specs are just something engineers make up, apparently.

 

[Min Ahn]

That's a big effort. Did you confuse ft/lb with Nm?

I’ve noticed the noise level reducing with tightening of the bolt so I kept going beyond the spec until I couldn’t anymore.. what a noob

 

[Dr. Norts]

It takes quite an amount of force to break that I don't know if I'd trust your torque wrench / brain after an event that. I gave mine a few brapps with a 1250ft/Ib Milwaukee impact. It got a bit more on the nut but no snappy snappy.

You must have really hey Herc'd that shit.

 

[DekiDoo]

It takes quite an amount of force to break that I don't know if I'd trust your torque wrench / brain after an event that. I gave mine a few brapps with a 1250ft/Ib Milwaukee impact. It got a bit more on the nut but no snappy snappy.

You must have really hey Herc'd that shit.

Here he is getting ready to torque that bitch.

 

[Min Ahn]

With huge help from @DekiDoo , I was able to replace the damaged strut!

The Fedex package that he sent came as quick as Amazon delivery lol

RIP strut shaft

As soon as the strut was separated from the sway bar endlinks, it collapsed leaving the strut caster plate still attached to the base. Almost eff’d up even more over here, god damnit.

1:1 replacement

Took almost two more hours to torque down the strut shaft because it kept spinning. The remedy was to jack the rear passenger side to put the front driver side wheel under pressure.
(Pic above not relevant)

The test drive went absolutely flawless. No more clunking noise from the driver side too.

Lessons learnt the hard way, yay!

 

[DekiDoo]

Did you ever figure out what was causing that noise?

 

[Min Ahn]

Did you ever figure out what was causing that noise?

The lower sway bar endlink bolt was loose and below the factory torque spec for some reason (never been touched). I torqued everything else to spec just in case. This resolved the issue I think lol

 

[Zelek]

Don't feel bad. I sheared off the top of a Bilstein strut with my impact wrench. I ignored the part about "locking nut" and just went for it like I would a regular install. Big mistake.

Install by hand on Bilsteins, always!

 

[HopfibreSn]

Don't feel bad. I sheared off the top of a Bilstein strut with my impact wrench. I ignored the part about "locking nut" and just went for it like I would a regular install. Big mistake.

Install by hand on Bilsteins, always!

Hah, did just that last week. On top of that I sheared another one when torquing to 50 ft-lb once I had the strut in the car, the instructions call for 54 ft-lb. Summit is sending me a replacement, I’ll be much more conservative torquing that one.

 

[Min Ahn]

Don't feel bad. I sheared off the top of a Bilstein strut with my impact wrench. I ignored the part about "locking nut" and just went for it like I would a regular install. Big mistake.

Install by hand on Bilsteins, always!

Hah, did just that last week. On top of that I sheared another one when torquing to 50 ft-lb once I had the strut in the car, the instructions call for 54 ft-lb. Summit is sending me a replacement, I’ll be much more conservative torquing that one.

The bolts are too fragile for big boiis

 

[GTP]

The lower sway bar endlink bolt was loose and below the factory torque spec for some reason (never been touched). I torqued everything else to spec just in case. This resolved the issue I think lol

Sway bar end links and strut nuts make a similar sound. Clunking for the sway bar, and a sharper rapping if its the strut.

I was surprised at the torque specs for each (85# for sway bar and 76# for the strut). Just doesn't seem they need to be so tight.

Also the 10mm hex at the strut end is confusing. You need to hold that still to tighten down the nut until it stops. But you certainly can't achieve 76# with the hex or you will surely round over its corners. But once the strut is in the car, you can tighten down the nut. I don't know what prevents the shaft from simply turning in that situation.

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