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How do I remove the lower strut bolts?

pyrophilus

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I am trying to remove the two bolts that amount the front knuckle to the strut bottom. Circled in red below.

So this is the first time I am removing the strut nut and bolts on a s550. I have removed plenty of them on maximas and pathfinders. I normally remove the nut using a breaker bar, then use breaker bar to crack the bolt, then turn it a few time and then slide (or tap with hammer) it out. Any youtube videos of people removing frozen strut bolt does the same (turn the bolt to loosen it).

Today, I tried to temove the nut then the bolt.

I broke the breaker bar trying to take the nut off. After soaking in pb blaster and using a new breaker bar, I was finally able to remove the two nuts. I tried to turn the bolt by the head, and it wouldn't budge.

I tried to hit the bolt with a hammer to push it out, but no matter how much I hammered, it wouldn't budge.

I then tried to turn the bolt by its head, but it wouldn't turn at all.

I went to the dealer and picked up a set of new strut mount bolts. I noticed that they are splined! See photo below.

So now I understand why the bolt could not be turned. And feeling the bolt, I noticed the raised part of the splines are higher than the side of the bolt shaft, which I am guessing means that the splines "bite" into the holes in the strut?

So... my question is, do I just need to hit it harder with my hammer? I would love it if anyone who has removed the strut bolt would let me know what they did.

Thanks,

Screenshot_20210528-204729_Chrome.webp


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ice445

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Air hammer or hit it harder to knock it out. I'd also lift up the knuckle a tiny bit with your jack to help relieve some of the tension. If nothing else works or you don't have an air hammer, try heat on the strut tab.
 

DougS550

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Yep, raise a little to remove pressure, hit it with a 2lb hammer and it will pop out, since you are replacing the bolts.
 

mindo389

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I left the nut on the bolt, a few threads on or enough that the end of the stud was flush with the end of the nut, and whacked the heck out of it with a heavy hammer.
 

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I just did this a few months ago. A regular hammer wouldn’t get it done. I had to go buy a 5lb hammer and still give it some really good blows. Make sure to put the nut on the end of the bolt backwards (to prevent damage to the bolt), before you begin striking it with the hammer.
 

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ice445

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I just did this a few months ago. A regular hammer wouldn’t get it done. I had to go buy a 5lb hammer and still give it some really good blows. Make sure to put the nut on the end of the bolt backwards (to prevent damage to the bolt), before you begin striking it with the hammer.
You're supposed to replace the bolt, but if you choose not to then yes, keeping the nut on the end is good advice.
 
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pyrophilus

pyrophilus

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I just did this a few months ago. A regular hammer wouldn’t get it done. I had to go buy a 5lb hammer and still give it some really good blows. Make sure to put the nut on the end of the bolt backwards (to prevent damage to the bolt), before you begin striking it with the hammer.
I bought new bolts, so I think I am just going to go to town on the old bolts.

I was using a 5 lb. Hammer, but I think I will just hit it even harder.

All this because of rusted axle bearing... I'll post about that drama later.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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pyrophilus

pyrophilus

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I was thinking of putting a 34mm deep socket over the bolt head, and use a beefy d-clamp to push it out, but I will give a second attempt with the hammer.
 

NGOT8R

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I bought new bolts, so I think I am just going to go to town on the old bolts.

I was using a 5 lb. Hammer, but I think I will just hit it even harder.

All this because of rusted axle bearing... I'll post about that drama later.

Thanks for the help everyone.
Yes, you still have to hit it really hard.
 

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DougS550

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I left the nut on the bolt, a few threads on or enough that the end of the stud was flush with the end of the nut, and whacked the heck out of it with a heavy hammer.
Yep that will work. If I am reusing the bolt I just use a Brass 2lb hammer. Good luck.
 

Cobra Jet

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5lb BFH is the way to go… and like others said, you really have to hit it. If you tap on it, it’s not going to budge. Give it a good slam 1-2x and it should pop that bolt right out of the strut.
 
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pyrophilus

pyrophilus

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5lb BFH is the way to go… and like others said, you really have to hit it. If you tap on it, it’s not going to budge. Give it a good slam 1-2x and it should pop that bolt right out of the strut.

I did pop out the two control arm ball joints and the tie rod ball joint without problems. I have traditionally had harder time with ball joints than strut bolts, so I guess I wasn't hitting it hard enough. Plus the ball joints did not require a big hit.

I'll report back (if it will actually stop raining for a bit)
 
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pyrophilus

pyrophilus

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Hey guys,

So here is the update.

It was pouring rain outside, so I ended up duct taping a golf umbrella to my $2000 carbon fiber tripod and working in the rain.

I feel so stupid because 10+ years ago, I used to tell people on maxima.org and on pathfinder forums to put jack under the knuckle to help pull the strut bolt out.

I guess after 8 years of leasing cars and not having done anything except oil and brake pad changes i forget.

Anyway, thank you everyone so much for the info. I did jack the knuckle up just a tad (not even 1/4 in), and the bolt came out on second tap.

Long story short is I had busted front passenger side bearing. I could hear a click when the car is turning. No sounds when driving but there was play and clicking in the wheel when I shook it on jackstands.

The replacement was supposed to have been easy. But... the axel nut was so loose (I tried to tighten it and it turns out it took 3-4 full turns to tighten it again) that the outer parts of the bearing fell apart. When I took off the dust cap, there was a little bit of water (seeped in from the back side), and the axel thread was rusted.

I decided to change out the knuckle, but it started to rain and I got to the point where I just couldn't continue mentally anymore.

I had the two control arm ball joints removed and tie rod ball joint removed, and then broke my breaker bar trying to take off the 24mm strut nuts. I got a larger breaker bar and after pb blaster soak for an hour took the strut nuts off, but when I got to the bolts, it started to pour.

Anyway, this morning I did replace the knuckle and the hub, and everything is nice and tight. Just came back from test drive and all's well.

Thanks again for the help.
 

DougS550

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Man that sucks, but most of us who have worked on cars have been their. Have fun
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