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I'm an idiot. I snapped the STB stud!

thatonenozz

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Snapped one of the timing cover bolts when torquing with a harbor freight click type after OPG install. Now I use an autozone click type because I've learned so much lol
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CVCashmere

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Dogs are not replaceable...luckily, broken studs are.

CVCashmere

Thank you for the kind words. My car is crap compared to my dog...
 

BoostedCanadianPoney

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Yup, just the bolt. It is not connected to the shocks or the shock mount (on previous models it was?)

Here's a shitty pic from my wheel well where you can see it's not connected (although it sits close to it). (it might be from the opposite wheel I don't remember, it's the most "viewable" pic I had left laying around of one of the strut bolts)


(click to enlarge)

strutbolt-bottom-thumb.png
Thanks a lot for the help, I shall change that damn stud then
 

BoostedCanadianPoney

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OK so back from the dealership, thye say they cannot order and replace just the snapped stud/bolt and that the entire strut tower cover needs to be replaced since the bolt that I snapped comes with it. To replace that part it will need to be taken to a body shop since that part is welded onto the car. I am talking about part 3A435. This is not making any snese to me, can anyone who had this work done chime in please? Thank you all for the help.
Capture.JPG
 

El_Centenario

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seems a bit over kill for replacing one stud. Would it be possible to drill out the broken stud and replacing it with a grade 8 hex bolt?
 

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jasonstang

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I would drill it out and put a new bolt in there.
If you really worry about the new bolt not holding well, have someone weld it in.
 

cking

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This where dealers are idiots. it might be too hard to drill, but not grind. Take too a real mechanic. Or get your dremel tool and grind the center out then a little punch and chisel work you'll have nice hole. I used to watch my father remove sheared exhaust manifold bolts. He soak them over night, periodically he would take drift and give them whack, then the next day he try easy out, but they often failed, so then grind the center out and take small chisel and start peeling the threads out they would always give way. He was old school tool & die before CNC.
 

Skully

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That's nuts. Body shops replace sheared bolts (usually from collisions) all the time. I know Ford has no official part number for the stud, but any body shop stud/bolt of the correct size would work...

By the way, I know for a fact that the original topic starter IPOGT had just the bolt replaced.

If my dealer dealer gives me the same BS in a few months I'll walk away. They are just trying to "up sell" you. (Also if they swap that whole part your alignment is fucked and you have to have that done again also)

Link to a topic of somebody replacing a RSX stud after snapping one. (Btw he ended up replacing all of them, even the non-broken ones, just because they are stronger...)
*click* That's what I will end up doing if dealer proves clueless in a few months. The broken one is pretty stuck in there for me so I'll probably end up drilling it out. But the rest of the steps will be the same.
 
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BoostedCanadianPoney

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I walked away when the dealer said that, I will remove the remainder of that stud and have a hex bolt replacing it . Thanks guys I tought I was crazy for a second sitting there listening to the service manager lecturing me about replacing the whole strut tower cover, which will have to be welded. I can name so many things that can actually go wrong if they do that. Thanks again
 

THE_AHJ

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GT Pony

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oh well, I broke mine today ! the same damn stud where you clip on the brown harness. I followed torque specs and I dont get it ! all the others were fine ! The worst part is that I took my time knowing of this issue and set my torque wrench to a conservative 25 ft pds! SOOO PISSED.
The stud snapped at 25 ft-lbs? Wonder what the deal is with this particular stud that so many people are having snap off. Are people putting grease on the threads or anything like that?

I'm leery to even try 40 ft-lbs on these fasteners now. Probably stop at 30 ft-lbs and call it good.
 

THE_AHJ

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I was able to torque all except the one that snapped to Spec. The other snapped right away most likely production issue with these and everyone gets one.
 

PJR202

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If it makes you feel any better you can go ahead and add the strut tower brace to your signature mods list and we won't call you a liar.....
 

Skully

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Take a nice weighted hammer to that sucker and bang it out. I did that with mine:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81846&highlight=Sheared&page=2
Thanks for the pics. It's nice to see that it's not impossible to hammer it out. I'll probably try again before drilling.

I was able to torque all except the one that snapped to Spec. The other snapped right away most likely production issue with these and everyone gets one.
Sounds eerily similar to what happened to mine... Is a monkey on the assembly line tightening them without a torque wrench?
 

GT Pony

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Sounds eerily similar to what happened to mine... Is a monkey on the assembly line tightening them without a torque wrench?
The guys who snapped off the stud ... did you have a Performance Package car that came with the strut tower bar? Or did you add a strut tower bar to a car that never had one from the factory, and then snapped off a stud?

It's possible that particular stud was over tightened at the factory on PP cars, and that weakened the stud to later snap if the strut tower bar was removed and then reinstalled a few times and torqued to the 41 ft-lbs spec.
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