i need a radiator

[ihasnostang]

i need a bigger radiator for my ecoboost, which already has the PP radiator. i have no cooling mods and I'm seeing 50 degree rise in ECT starting from 200f during 1 lap of road america, with heat fully on and 55f ambient. it looks like there are options from CSF, mishimoto, and SVE. Will a larger radiator really help with coolant temps when there is a full sized intercooler, a/c condensor, and trans cooler infront of it?

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[tosha]

Unless you do other cooling mods, larger radiator will just give you a bit more time before you get to the same high temps. E.g. it will be 2 laps instead of 1.

I'm seeing 50 degree rise in ECT starting from 200f during 1 lap of road america

Are you saying you're driving around with 250F degree coolant temps? Your car should be looking like this at that point:

 

[K4fxd]

If the larger radiator is big enough to dissipate the heat you will be fine.

Cooling systems should be able to remove more heat than the engine can generate. That is why old school engines with a removed T stat would never warm up. Usually a washer in place of the T stat would keep the temps around 160.

I don't think cooling systems are designed that way any more.

 

[ihasnostang]

the average was 227 with a spike to 247 at or after the end of the lap. i tried my best by picking out corners by the throttle trace. what's next after a radiator; hood vents or oil cooler. i will probably try and open up the upper grille

i imagine the turbo and head-intergrated exhaust dump a lot of heat into the cooling system.

 

[tosha]

what's next after a radiator; hood vents or oil cooler. i will probably try and open up the upper grille

radiator ducting -> hood vents -> opening the grille. Better all together or in that order. I did it all backwards, so ask me how I know . Making all the air go through the radiator instead of around it is top priority, then you need to eject it efficiently, then you open the grille as needed to push more air through.

I don't have enough knowledge on ecoboost to comment on oil cooler, but generally that's a great idea.

I went with De Witts radiator - https://www.dewitts.com/. Top notch quality and flow. Here are some side by side comparison pics with a PP1: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ewheels-road-course-build.123490/post-4113692

That thing is massive

 

[tosha]

the average was 227 with a spike to 247

Also, are you sure it's ECT and not CHT? At least on a GT, there is no coolant temp sensor and it's a calculated value, so monitoring it is not the best.

 

[K4fxd]

I went with De Witts radiator

Which one did you get? They list a HP and a Pro. Says they are direct fit but the radiator in your pic looks too big for direct.

How did it change your coolant temps.

 

[tosha]

Which one did you get? They list a HP and a Pro. Says they are direct fit but the radiator in your pic looks too big for direct.

How did it change your coolant temps.

I went with the smaller one . I have roush SC, and even with extra intercooler radiator and ducting and SC belt on the other side I was able to fit it with some minor mods. I'm pretty sure it will fit even better for stock engine. I don't think the bigger one would fit the supercharged setup without more substantial mods.

To not re-type my observations, I'll drop couple links to my posts:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/coolers.189235/post-3801294
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/track-time-limited-due-to-high-cht.166499/post-3790991
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/supercharging-and-track-days.207591/post-4147999

I've done ducting, t-stat and radiator at the same time and I already had full set of hood louvers. That thing runs too cold for the street even with the supercharger load, takes forever to warm it up, I am going to go back to stock t-stat.
On the track.... I gave up trying to resolve all the heat issues with supercharged GT platform and moved on to another car.

 

[GTP]

the average was 227 with a spike to 247 at or after the end of the lap. i tried my best by picking out corners by the throttle trace. what's next after a radiator; hood vents or oil cooler. i will probably try and open up the upper grille
...

Oil cooler, final answer.
I will help you design a cost-effective DIY setup.

 

[ihasnostang]

Also, are you sure it's ECT and not CHT? At least on a GT, there is no coolant temp sensor and it's a calculated value, so monitoring it is not the best.

i wasn't monitoring ECT on my tuner, just background logging. but it was listed as ECT on the device. i have compared ECT vs CHT on the display in the past, and they matched. i do watch CHT on the dash while on track though, and i have seen it over 240.

 

[SBR70.3]

The key is getting cool air in and hot air out. I agree with ducting->hood vents->open grille->radiator.

Turbos get hot. I have a spare hood with Race Louvers that I put on my VW GTI for track days during the warmer months. I do have a larger radiator (CSF) on that car. The radiator, vents, along with ducting of the cooling stack, certainly helps w/temps. I have not had an issue with temps since going this route. I have not added an oil cooler on this car because every idiot company designing them decides to place it directly in front of the intercooler. In my experience, they do the same for the Ecoboost and the GT Mustangs.

If your EB is your dedicated track car, I would highly recommend the Race Louvers. They look great, improve cooling ability, and add downforce. You can do what I did and buy a spare hood to install them in and swap for track day. Pic of mine attached.

The Mach 1, GT350, and the VW Golf R/Audi S3/RS3 all have a better design where the auxiliary coolers are on the sides of the front bumper. Far better choice, IMO. If someone can design an oil cooler for the GT/EB that went in the same place the M1/GT350's go, I probably would not have bought my M1.

 

[EFI]

From my experience, airflow > size of the radiator.

I've seen more drop in temps from opening up the grill and hood vent than going with a bigger radiator. It all has to be matched and equalized, you can't have one without the other and expect it to work at it's peak.

I would say for your specific situation, stick with the PP radiator (which IMO works just as well as some of the basic aftermarket options) and open up the grill and hood.

 

[Dana Pants]

Opening up the hood should also give a bump in front down force. So I would prioritize that personally.

 

[ihasnostang]

i've got a track day this weekend at a shorter 2.5mi track. With a high of 66 for friday, i expect to get more laps before needing a cooldown. i added some water wetter and dremeled out the stock inner hood vents, so it doesn't have that lip; not that it will probably do much anyway. Found an old video with ECT& oil temp of the track ill be going to. But i did have a smaller intercooler then; basically half height of current one, but thicker, so i had higher charge air temps.

I have not added an oil cooler on this car because every idiot company designing them decides to place it directly in front of the intercooler.

Bingo.
unfortunately my car is my summer daily and i track it once a year. There's someone local selling a black hood for $500 but that's still a lot of money. i'm going to try and router out the grille this summer. @GTP do you have a picture of the bit you used? i also do like the oil cooler route because the sandwich plate can be removed when not being tracked. But another ecoboost user here did ducting, trackspec vents, and a oil cooler and didn't last the whole 20 min at road america.

 

[S550HPP]

Oil cooler, final answer.
I will help you design a cost-effective DIY setup.

+1 oil handles 70% cooling if it's AT lots of heat transfers to engine as well.

I would pick easiest try removing fake hood vents and see what logs say. Theres so much room in EB engine bay airflow through the bay out the back of bay is not an issue.

A turbo blanket would likely help a lot.

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