Coolers

[MrMike]

I cannot stress enough that I believe the OEM oil/water cooler should be retained. It helps, and I am not worried about failure. I'll bet this combo has around 90kBTU cooling.

I'm pretty sure the OEM oil cooler is a PP addition so I do not have it. That's why I want to make sure I'm getting the best aftermarket option I can. It does seem like I should be deciding between the Mishi and the Harrop.

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[EFI]

I'm pretty sure the OEM oil cooler is a PP addition so I do not have it.

It's not, it comes standard on all GTs regardless if you have the performance pack or not. Same with the 10R80 cooler, it comes on all models regardless of options.

 

[MrMike]

It's not, it comes standard on all GTs regardless if you have the performance pack or not. Same with the 10R80 cooler, it comes on all models regardless of options.

TIL, thanks. I was able to find it on the diagrams as well, FR3Z-6A642-A.

 

[Ewheels]

If I were do it over, the only changes I would make are -10AN lines (instead of -12AN)

Wouldn't you want to keep the -12An lines? Bigger lines means less pressure drop. Less pressure drop means happier engine.

 

[luc]

Wouldn't you want to keep the -12An lines? Bigger lines means less pressure drop. Less pressure drop means happier engine.

Could be because of the space constraints

 

[luc]

Have a look at my solution here.

• I ventilated my belly pan, and I positioned the horizontal cooler less that 1/2" above it. It is tipped up 5 degrees from the frame rails - this matches the 5* angle of the belly pan.
• I repurposed the big plastic flap that lays on the belly pan to be an air diverter. I tipped it up so that the leading edge is at the crash bar, and the trailing edge is on top of the back end of the cooler. This diverts all air entering the lower grille through the new oil cooler.
• I kept the OEM oil/water cooler, and put a Setrab sandwich plate on top of it. There is still room for the big Ford FL820s oil filter to be swapped with oil changes.
• I opened up every single cell in both grilles. I used a router on the backside of the removed grilles.
• I even removed the grille pony, and then used 6-32 screws and inserts to make it removable during track day conversions.
• I chose the Setrab Pro Line cooler over the SLM version (Harrop) because it has a little higher cooling for ~same physical size, and chose the 2-pass so as to put both ports on the driver's side.
• Only 3 brackets are needed, and made from aluminum stock from the local Ace HW.

CHT now runs steady at 228F, even to 30 minute sessions at 85 ambient. (w/ PP larger radiator.)

I cannot stress enough that I believe the OEM oil/water cooler should be retained. It helps, and I am not worried about failure. I'll bet this combo has around 90kBTU cooling.

The horizontal mount does not block the radiator/condenser, and it has forced air as described.

Front end risk is more with parking curbs, etc, than an off at the track. Note there is at least 7" ground clearance at the front splitter.

If I were do it over, the only changes I would make are to use the new billet Setrab sandwich plate with pre-drilled side port (for optional oil temp gauge), -10AN lines (instead of -12AN), and Setrab 22mm/10AN 90deg elbows (instead of 22/10 adapters).

If anyone wants, I can provide a shopping cart listing all the parts needed to make this kit. (Small donation welcome, lol.) And/or I can fab the brackets needed for you.

More photos at the link above.

Not so sure about retaining the factory oil to water cooler ( I removed mine) for a couple of reasons:
The temperature delta between the hot coolant and oil is much smaller, by over 100*, that the air to oil and all this removed Btu’s from the oil is transferred to the coolant and therefore adding a big load to the radiator

 

[GTP]

Not so sure about retaining the factory oil to water cooler ( I removed mine) for a couple of reasons:
The temperature delta between the hot coolant and oil is much smaller, by over 100*, that the air to oil and all this removed Btu’s from the oil is transferred to the coolant and therefore adding a big load to the radiator

Respectfully disagree.

 

[GTP]

Wouldn't you want to keep the -12An lines? Bigger lines means less pressure drop. Less pressure drop means happier engine.

Yes, true. It's only 5ft total run. The channels in the cooler are pretty small. Setrab applications guy thought even 10AN was plenty.

Could be because of the space constraints

Exactly. The bends to go under sway bar etc are tricky. Space is very tight right around the sandwich plate.

Plus the new billet plate has the two ports too close for 12AN. And that's another reason to choose Setrab 22mm/10AN 90 elbows bc it's more compact.

 

[tosha]

Not so sure about retaining the factory oil to water cooler ( I removed mine) for a couple of reasons:
The temperature delta between the hot coolant and oil is much smaller, by over 100*, that the air to oil and all this removed Btu’s from the oil is transferred to the coolant and therefore adding a big load to the radiator

A data point on stock oil cooler from my side:
My current setup - DeWitts radiator that is basically double capacity from stock PP1, radiator ducting, hood vents and etc. Nothing done on oil cooling side. Manual transmission, so no heatsoak from trans cooler. Physical oil temp gauge in place. Watkins Glen at 85F ambient as test environment.

I found the stock oil heat exchanger to be quite effective actually - oil temp never climbed beyond 260F. So keeping the oil temp in check is actually ok (with big radiator at least). The problem is that oil keeps warming up the coolant, so the CHT is being pulled up into 230F range, at which point I have to back off. I'm confident that large radiator helped a lot to keep overall system from hard overheating and I'm almost there as far as overall balance.

All of that tells me that if I can bring oil temps down by some, that will make everything very acceptable. One way is to decouple oil and coolant and put a big ass oil cooler, but I am planning to go with GTP approach, which should give very similar result.

Btw, at 75F and below, I don't need to do anything at all. Ambient temps seem to have huge effect on all of this.

 

[GTP]

... One way is to decouple oil and coolant and put a big ass oil cooler, but I am planning to go with GTP approach, which should give very similar result.
...

Another benefit of my approach is that
1) you don't have to break into the coolant system with the associated plumbing mods, and
2) you can always remove the oil/water exchanger in the future.

Again, I tried to maximize the available air, and not have one additional cooler partially add to the heat load of others (hence the low horizontal location).

 

[GTP]

I'm pretty sure the OEM oil cooler is a PP addition so I do not have it. That's why I want to make sure I'm getting the best aftermarket option I can. It does seem like I should be deciding between the Mishi and the Harrop.

OP, all you have to do is find a sightline that shows your oil filter. If it appears to be mounted to what looks like laminations in a diamond-shaped device, then that is your oil cooler.

I might be wrong, but I believe the Mishi plate requires you to remove the oil/water exchanger. Which then requires opening and modifying the coolant
system.

It is nice that the Harrop system is now carried "locally".

My setup will cost you around the same, mainly because you will pay retail price on everything. But I believe it is superior. And roughly the same amount of work.

 

[luc]

Another benefit of my approach is that
1) you don't have to break into the coolant system with the associated plumbing mods, and
2) you can always remove the oil/water exchanger in the future.

Again, I tried to maximize the available air, and not have one additional cooler partially add to the heat load of others (hence the low horizontal location).

Regarding #1
It’s actually a much simpler system with less opportunities for leaks since you replace the lower radiator hose with its double T connector and 2 hoses going to the cooler with the ford factory lower hose from the previous generation Coyote that didn’t have a cooler

 

[GTP]

Found a photo of my cast Setrab plate and -12AN adapter on the 22mm adapters. The ports are even closer together on their new billet plate.

 

[luc]

Found a photo of my cast Setrab plate and -12AN adapter on the 22mm adapters. The ports are even closer together on their new billet plate.

That is tight!!!!

 

[GTP]

That means no air for the radiator from lower grille though, right? Do you have pictures of the "diverter" installed by any chance? Also, any concerns with dumping all that air under the front of the car?

Correct.

Not concerned, because as someone else already pointed out, the high-speed ambient air rushes under the belly pan, and will take the hot air with it. I should think that the oil cooler air comes out someone slow due to all the fins.
Aero could be rebalanced with a bigger or 2nd splitter. But as also pointed out by someone, I agree that aero under 100mph is not really active, and the tracks we visit rarely have a 100mph turn.

Here is a not-so-good photo of the OEM plastic shield, raised up to the crash bar.

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