This is what was found when I was getting my long tubes put on never smoked from the exhaust, no oil on the plugs or anything. But this was causing my cat on my driver side to overheat ( that’s why I bought the LTH thinking my cats were failing )Maybe it’s a combination of some oil burning mixed with fuel and all the water vapor making it look worse?? All the plugs look clean.
Checkout this thread and more specifically where UPR chimes in at post #9+I have upr pcv valve delete
I appreciate the help. I’m just not getting how a completely open PCV system is cause oil to burn? There is no pressure being built up.Checkout this thread and more specifically where UPR chimes in at post #9+
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...h-can-breather-style-non-recirculated.103125/
You measured the crankcase pressure with a gauged test setup or you’re assuming there’s no pressure based on how your system is vented to atmosphere ?I appreciate the help. I’m just not getting how a completely open PCV system is cause oil to burn? There is no pressure being built up.
Yeah, it’s more obvious there, and I also noticed excessive smoke/fuel/etc. at the end of the last pull in the dyno video.IT was about 58 outside and car was fully warmed up. 190 ish at cylinder head.
here is start up
I used Elite a few years…they built a new tune for my VMP supercharged 2013 GT….ran well. Elite is supposed to have a lot of experience on these Coyotes.If you end up considering having another shop take a look, Elite Performance here in the south metro area (off of Santa Fe south of C-470) has a good reputation. I personally have only used their dyno so don’t have any other firsthand experience with them, but others in my car club say they are awesome with Fords and the S550 platform.
That’s where my attention is at.Also, the fact that you have a vented PCV does not mean that system is actually handling the crankcase pressure adequately, that’s where I would focus my attention right now.
I appreciate the help. I wouldn’t think it wouldn’t be a break in issue. The increased cylinder pressure should get those rings to seat quicker I would think. It’s only an issue at idle once warmed up. I didn’t realize that much pressure can be built up behind the rings while idling? I can leak down and compression test it. I’m gonna post cold start, it has been sitting since last night.Yeah, it’s more obvious there, and I also noticed excessive smoke/fuel/etc. at the end of the last pull in the dyno video.
I do think the lack of cats is part of why it’s so noticeable. Also, the fact that you have a vented PCV does not mean that system is actually handling the crankcase pressure adequately, that’s where I would focus my attention right now.
Finally, I personally would not have put boost on so soon. Opinions on how rings seal actually happens in practice are like assholes (everybody has one), but I personally would have waited to put boost on until after around a thousand-ish miles. If you hurt a ring land or didn’t get/haven’t gotten good ring seal, then you’ll have a fair amount of work ahead of you to get that addressed.
If you end up considering having another shop take a look, Elite Performance here in the south metro area (off of Santa Fe south of C-470) has a good reputation. I personally have only used their dyno so don’t have any other firsthand experience with them, but others in my car club say they are awesome with Fords and the S550 platform.
Best of luck, I really hope you get this figured out soon and that it ends up being an easy fix.
yep I agree, this is what I would do personally. Follow the break in procedure vary your rpm do some long city drives until you do a proper break in.I would honestly keep an eye on your oil consumption, drive the car modestly and don’t get on it hard for another 1400 miles or so until the rings seat correctly because there have been cases of folks having oiling issues for the first few thousand miles until the rings are seated. I personally wouldn’t have installed a power adder to a fresh engine. But that’s just me. Good luck