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Help with burning oil New M1

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Titan101

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Maybe it’s a combination of some oil burning mixed with fuel and all the water vapor making it look worse?? All the plugs look clean.
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Classicnige

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Maybe it’s a combination of some oil burning mixed with fuel and all the water vapor making it look worse?? All the plugs look clean.
This is what was found when I was getting my long tubes put on never smoked from the exhaust, no oil on the plugs or anything. But this was causing my cat on my driver side to overheat ( that’s why I bought the LTH thinking my cats were failing )

 
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Titan101

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GregO

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I appreciate the help. I’m just not getting how a completely open PCV system is cause oil to burn? There is no pressure being built up.
You measured the crankcase pressure with a gauged test setup or you’re assuming there’s no pressure based on how your system is vented to atmosphere ?


https://www.uprproducts.com/11-20-m...ged-dual-valve-oil-catch-can-css-plug-n-play/

Perform a compression test to put piston ring / cylinder sealing issues at the bottom of the trouble shooting list.
 
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IT was about 58 outside and car was fully warmed up. 190 ish at cylinder head.

here is start up
Yeah, it’s more obvious there, and I also noticed excessive smoke/fuel/etc. at the end of the last pull in the dyno video.

I do think the lack of cats is part of why it’s so noticeable. Also, the fact that you have a vented PCV does not mean that system is actually handling the crankcase pressure adequately, that’s where I would focus my attention right now.

Finally, I personally would not have put boost on so soon. Opinions on how rings seal actually happens in practice are like assholes (everybody has one), but I personally would have waited to put boost on until after around a thousand-ish miles. If you hurt a ring land or didn’t get/haven’t gotten good ring seal, then you’ll have a fair amount of work ahead of you to get that addressed.

If you end up considering having another shop take a look, Elite Performance here in the south metro area (off of Santa Fe south of C-470) has a good reputation. I personally have only used their dyno so don’t have any other firsthand experience with them, but others in my car club say they are awesome with Fords and the S550 platform.

Best of luck, I really hope you get this figured out soon and that it ends up being an easy fix.
 

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If you end up considering having another shop take a look, Elite Performance here in the south metro area (off of Santa Fe south of C-470) has a good reputation. I personally have only used their dyno so don’t have any other firsthand experience with them, but others in my car club say they are awesome with Fords and the S550 platform.
I used Elite a few years…they built a new tune for my VMP supercharged 2013 GT….ran well. Elite is supposed to have a lot of experience on these Coyotes.
 

BlackandBlue

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You can unhook your spark plugs one at a time to see what cylinder is causing the problem.

I am going to guess a valve guide but since most cars run a PCV system, who know how widespread bad valve guide problem actually is on these cars.

I personally would do a leak down test to check the ring lands, put some miles on it while keeping a close eye on oil usage and the spark plug of the offending cylinder.
 

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My passenger side exhaust does produce condensation before the driver side, idk why. I burn some oil but not at idle. I basically do 8k rpm pulls every day and use about a half quart per 1k miles.
 

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Also, the fact that you have a vented PCV does not mean that system is actually handling the crankcase pressure adequately, that’s where I would focus my attention right now.
That’s where my attention is at.
Vented to atmosphere isn’t exactly a low pressure environment……. Atmosphere is 14.7 psi depending on elevation !
The Coyote is a windage generating beast. Piston oil squirters and a disabled PCV system could be placing a bit to much pressure on the backside of the pistons and lifting the rings off the lands.
Just a WAG on my part.

Pro level drag racers use crankcase vacuum pumps and can see 20+ HP increase by creating a low pressure (less than 14.7 psi) in the crankcase.
The takeaway is the Coyote design team designed the motor to have a low pressure ventilation system especially with modern thin low tension rings…….
 
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Titan101

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Yeah, it’s more obvious there, and I also noticed excessive smoke/fuel/etc. at the end of the last pull in the dyno video.

I do think the lack of cats is part of why it’s so noticeable. Also, the fact that you have a vented PCV does not mean that system is actually handling the crankcase pressure adequately, that’s where I would focus my attention right now.

Finally, I personally would not have put boost on so soon. Opinions on how rings seal actually happens in practice are like assholes (everybody has one), but I personally would have waited to put boost on until after around a thousand-ish miles. If you hurt a ring land or didn’t get/haven’t gotten good ring seal, then you’ll have a fair amount of work ahead of you to get that addressed.

If you end up considering having another shop take a look, Elite Performance here in the south metro area (off of Santa Fe south of C-470) has a good reputation. I personally have only used their dyno so don’t have any other firsthand experience with them, but others in my car club say they are awesome with Fords and the S550 platform.

Best of luck, I really hope you get this figured out soon and that it ends up being an easy fix.
I appreciate the help. I wouldn’t think it wouldn’t be a break in issue. The increased cylinder pressure should get those rings to seat quicker I would think. It’s only an issue at idle once warmed up. I didn’t realize that much pressure can be built up behind the rings while idling? I can leak down and compression test it. I’m gonna post cold start, it has been sitting since last night.
 

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I would honestly keep an eye on your oil consumption, drive the car modestly and don’t get on it hard for another 1400 miles or so until the rings seat correctly because there have been cases of folks having oiling issues for the first few thousand miles until the rings are seated. I personally wouldn’t have installed a power adder to a fresh engine. But that’s just me. Good luck
 

JetGray_Mach1

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I would honestly keep an eye on your oil consumption, drive the car modestly and don’t get on it hard for another 1400 miles or so until the rings seat correctly because there have been cases of folks having oiling issues for the first few thousand miles until the rings are seated. I personally wouldn’t have installed a power adder to a fresh engine. But that’s just me. Good luck
yep I agree, this is what I would do personally. Follow the break in procedure vary your rpm do some long city drives until you do a proper break in.
 

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Doing hard pulls to Redline, Boosted enough to Double the Horsepower output with only 300 miles on the clock, what could go wrong there? Just saying, maybe the rings never got a chance to seat because you didn't break it in before revving it out that high?
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