Handling

[NightmareMoon]

I have a PP1 prepped for SCCA FS autocross: Koni shocks, alignment, tires, rear swaybar, nothing else. If I could change one more thing, I would just put wider wheels and tires on the car.

If you want higher speeds, just add grip from the 200 tread wear tire department.

the one thing I changed was doing both swaybars, and the car was a pleasure to drive that way. (then wider wheels and tires)

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[Labradog]

Another vote for the FP Track dampers and Steeda Min Drop springs.

 

[Doug T]

Took it out for a ride yesterday. Initial impressions were: While overall grip might be ok. I felt very disconnected from the road, As if the body wasn't connected to the tires. Especially the rear. Not very confidence inspiring. This was on twisty backroads. And that's ok, as long as it can be fixed. No worse than the Harley tax. Pipes, breather. tune. But in this case it's suspension. We'll see. And Shogun, what are the sleeves for?

 

[shogun32]

As if the body wasn't connected to the tires. Especially the rear. Not very confidence inspiring. This was on twisty backroads.

yup like a Harley with it's hinge in the frame. Ask @NoVaGT what he thought of my car vs his from this morning's swap. His is a PP1+MR and no mods and while the shorp bump impact was better absorbed than my car, the rebound was still loose (2 to 2.5 oscillations before settle) even in Track mode! What I also noticed was SIGNIFICANT chassis rock/shimmy side to side.

And Shogun, what are the sleeves for?

Ford drilled a 16mm hole in the rear Diff bushings and then put a 14mm bolt thru them. The sleeve is designed to fix this unbelievable gaff. Even Naturally Aspirated cars have been known to break the bolts because there is entirely too much freedom movement in the diff and additionally Ford engineers are MORONS and are supporting sheer forces thru the threaded part of the fastener.

There's at least 6 threads on this failure mode.

 

[Doug T]

I saw that but I thought the latest greatest was larger through bolts?

 

[Ewheels]

OK I just did them. Last week. No studs needed. 200 at steeda for 4. I bet he can even get s new customer discount too.

And as for the tires… Quoting The Big Lebowski. That’s just, like, your, opinion, mannn. Me personally, I believe, my car that has spacers with no studs on it feels better than before. So the OP can take that for what it’s worth.

Did you have anything positive to contribute to his post or just here to nit pick everybody else’s opinion?

Relax James. I didn't mean anything of what I said in a negative manner. Just want to give people correct info. OP could be new to this and I don't want him getting misinformation.
Bolt on spacers are a hazard; they are simply more points of failure. Manufacturers and vendors should really take it on themselves to get junk parts like those off websites and teach people the proper way

 

[shogun32]

nothing works with the PP1 dampers. They are trash.

 

[shogun32]

I saw that but I thought the latest greatest was larger through bolts?

If you want to thru-bolt with d16 go ahead but d14 works fine.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Not as well as the Min Drop Linears with FP dampers combination.

More spring combined with damping that's kind of marginal to begin with doesn't sound like a productive direction to go off in.


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

If the PP1 dampers were fully up to the task of controlling the PP1 springs I might agree . . . at least as a stop-gap measure.

Steeda lists all of the following ahead of any mention of performance benefits - you need to read that like you would the order of ingredients in prepackaged foods.

• Lowers your S550 Mustang 0.5" on all 4 corners
• Great ride quality, improved aerodynamics, and improved vehicle stance

They're aimed mostly at the street crowd that does at most moderately paced canyon drives (as opposed to the more serious canyon running).

Yes, I know you can let yourself get caught on the slippery slope here. But FR dampers + Min Drops isn't even close to the edge. If you have the choice between slightly overdoing the dampers relative to the springs or slightly overdoing the springs relative to the dampers, do the first. At least with stock/stock as your reference points.


Norm

 

[Doug T]

I'm just about to push the send button on the frpp track pack. Haven't heard any real negatives yet.

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