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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

Gregs24

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The 10" OEM sub in the B&O equipped cars is generously described as low quality ! It is nothing more than a $12 paper cone speaker and is a huge weak link in the standard system with a horrible boomy muddy bass that overwhelms everything else. I have played around with settings and added polyfill but it is still pretty woeful.

Replacement using the original OEM box is the obvious solution that I wanted to try to main as near original look as possible. The 10" sub enclosure is both bigger and different shaped to the Shaker system in pre 2019 cars so the first think was to define the space available. The speaker orifice is 230mm which is pretty standard for a 10" sub but be aware that some speakers are bigger and modifying the hole would be a pain. The maximum depth is 146mm although it would be easy to achieve 160mm by shaving off some ribbing internally. The maximum external diameter (trim ring) is 266mm if you want to fit inside the ridges (see later) or about 275mm if you are happy to dremel them off. Nothing bigger than that will fit the OEM box which does rule out some speakers without a spacer which would be a fiddle.

I settled on the Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" subwoofer (TS-A100D4 in the US). This will fit the box almost perfectly, is dual voice coil, 4 ohm and has a relatively low sensitivity of 77dB which helps to overcome the bass heavy settings Ford use. At this point I should say I am NOT looking for a thumping bass but a musical well controlled base. In the UK this is around £65 so is not an expensive speaker. There are very few other speakers that will fit this box without significant modification so be warned - it is not as easy a swap out as with the 8" box in the Shaker system.

First picture of the woeful OEM sub - seriously Ford why bother !

20201005_135835.jpg


Next the Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" subwoofer which at least looks half decent !

20201005_135830.jpg


Remove the trim ring - you will not need it. Remove the small lug on the OEM box as it gets in the way - this is the only thing you need to remove.

20201005_140115.jpg


If you offer up the speaker to the enclosure you will find the holes are almost in the right place but not quite. I drilled holes just to the inside of the originals.

20201005_141017.jpg


Remove the plugs from the original wires and strip back to expose the metal. The black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive. I added the sealing strip to the enclosure rather than the speaker because it is a lot easier.

20201005_142334.jpg


Once all connected and polyfill added I fitted the speaker with two of the screws directly - I did it this way to get a good seal with the box. Leave the others for the moment.

20201005_143456.jpg


There is enough adjustment to then use the new fitting screws with the OEM grille for the remaining 4 screw holes. The OEM screws will not fit.

20201005_144056.jpg


Finally refit the trim ring (that you probably broke when you removed the original speaker) and refit in the car.

20201005_145151.jpg


So finally how does it sound ? Night and day better ! The bass is now controlled and tight as well as not overpowering and at the same time the OEM look is retained.
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FreePenguin

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Only issue I see is, I believe stock subs are 2ohms. That new one is 4ohms. You’re reducing output by half, can be offset a little by sensitivity but I doubt enough to overcome the half output cut. Maybe that’s why you said not overpowering anymore
 
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Gregs24

Gregs24

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Only issue I see is, I believe stock subs are 2ohms. That new one is 4ohms. You’re reducing output by half, can be offset a little by sensitivity but I doubt enough to overcome the half output cut. Maybe that’s why you said not overpowering anymore
The OEM B&O sub is dual 4 ohm, the Shaker was dual 2 ohm as far as I know.
 

FreePenguin

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Thanks. Was unaware the subs changed. I do know the shakers are 2ohms. Glad it worked out. I’d of been tempted to toss a 2ohm replacement in there. I’m allll about that basssss.

on serious note it looks good. Good tutorial
 
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Gregs24

Gregs24

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Thanks. Was unaware the subs changed. I do know the shakers are 2ohms. Glad it worked out. I’d of been tempted to toss a 2ohm replacement in there. I’m allll about that basssss.

on serious note it looks good. Good tutorial
This is the big problem with any sub replacement thread !

It should be mandatory to say what you are trying to achieve before any explanation / review as it makes such a difference. Having said all that an 8" sub will never produce that much bass compared to a 10" or more.

I like bass, but not the awful boomy tuneless thumping the OEM speaker produced. I think the reason the 8" in the Shaker was not too bad was because it didn't actually produce much sound whereas the 10" in the B&O is too loud to ignore.
 

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Elp_jc

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After your write-up, I'd like to replace my stock sub... but only if I can find one that uses the stock holes... which doubt it'll happen. Ha ha. I messed up the stupid ring when I added polyfil to the sub, so I just cut off where it mounts, painted the bolt heads black, and there's no ring now. Looks stock, unless you own a Mustang. Having said that, I'd have left the ring on the Pioneer sub, rather than the ugly stock cover. But if my ring was still there, it'd be a hard decision. Ha ha.

At any rate, if somebody finds a similar sub, with the proper ohms, dual voice coils, and holes that align, I'd replace it. I'd still like not having to cut the wires, so would look for a mating connector, to avoid doing that. But that's the only 'hack' I'm willing to do :). Thx.
 
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Gregs24

Gregs24

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After your write-up, I'd like to replace my stock sub... but only if I can find one that uses the stock holes... which doubt it'll happen. Ha ha. I messed up the stupid ring when I added polyfil to the sub, so I just cut off where it mounts, painted the bolt heads black, and there's no ring now. Looks stock, unless you own a Mustang. Having said that, I'd have left the ring on the Pioneer sub, rather than the ugly stock cover. But if my ring was still there, it'd be a hard decision. Ha ha.

At any rate, if somebody finds a similar sub, with the proper ohms, dual voice coils, and holes that align, I'd replace it. I'd still like not having to cut the wires, so would look for a mating connector, to avoid doing that. But that's the only 'hack' I'm willing to do :). Thx.
The Pioneer speaker is very close to the same holes (as shown) and requires minimal adjustment. Most aftermarket subs use a compression fitting which means you can connect with a wire rather than connector. There are very few speakers that will fit full stop, finding one with exact hole positions as well will be impossible !

Not sure if the Pioneer trim ring will fit around the standard grille as it is slightly smaller diameter. You could use a replacement grille if you could find one to fit.

The sound is so bad from the original speaker leaving it as original was not an option.
 

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It’s possible (but tricky) to get that speaker trim ring off with zero damage or marks to any of the plastics.

Leave it in the sun (or warm it up) and use two trim removal tools. Slide one underneath the ring following the circumference and the other like a traditional pry bar at right angle to the circumference. Use even pressure on both tools. There is a cone clip for every screw and the position between the clips and the screws are fixed. Look under the edge of the ring to locate the first clip and then note it’s position to find the others. The hardest clips are the ones under the trim ‘wings', leave them to the end so you have most movement and best visibility.

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Chef jpd

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Just ordered this, will let you know how it works out......

RF Punch
 
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Gregs24

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Just ordered this, will let you know how it works out......

RF Punch
I think you are heading for a world of pain !

The trim ring / external diameter of the speaker will not fit in the B&O enclosure as it has an external diameter of 286mm / 280mm (A and E on the link to the owners manual) This will not fit.

https://rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/library/2012/5_subwoofers/4020122-0_rf_punchp3ssubwoofers-man.pdf

267mm is the maximum inside the locating ridges for the original speaker and about 277mm inside the main recess. (see picture) By the time you have dremeled away the ridges you will be all the way through the plastic case and then struggle to get a seal. Even making a spacer will be a problem because of the OEM trim ring recess either side.

Good Luck !

1602059634313.png
 

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Elp_jc

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How about if you 'Dremel' the edge (the 90-deg bend) of the Pioneer sub where the screw goes, and use the original hole, with the OEM grille pressuring the speaker down? Would that be enough? Without the grille, the screw head would still grab the speaker, but the grille should push it down enough IMO. That would be the only way to install it for me. Thx.
 
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Gregs24

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How about if you 'Dremel' the edge (the 90-deg bend) of the Pioneer sub where the screw goes, and use the original hole, with the OEM grille pressuring the speaker down? Would that be enough? Without the grille, the screw head would still grab the speaker, but the grille should push it down enough IMO. That would be the only way to install it for me. Thx.
It's a lot easier drilling the holes in the plastic !
 

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I've used this speaker before, and I think it will fit,

The trim ring is a separate part from the speaker, so it will not be used.
The screw hole diameter is 258mm (F)
The overall diameter is 280mm (E)
But, the speaker is not round in its diameter and can be clocked and trimmed to fit .

I'll let you know how it goes.
 

m3incorp

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I used this JL Audio, but since I like to feel the bass, no 10" in that small enclosure is going to work for me. I left it in there, even though I unhooked it and installed a real 12" subwoofer enclosure. BTW I didn't break my trim ring when I removed it.

JBl.jpg
 

FreePenguin

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that’s bad ass. Is that a tw series? Has to be

oh you’re saying you put another box in there? I did the same dual tw1 box
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