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Ford's famous 2 piece lug nuts

frank s

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To remove and install, I used an old school cross wrench and of course, a dab of anti seize on the new lugs. They're all "arm torqued" and checked after a short drive and again after a few hundred miles. All is well here.
Just a reminder: the torque specified in all applications I know of is to be applied to threaded fasteners that are CLEAN and DRY, ON ALL CONTACT SURFACES. A "dab of anti seize" (sic) must be compensated by lowering applied torque. No, I have no idea how much of a reduction is indicated by introducing common lubricants, et cetera, on those CLEAN and DRY surfaces.
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WildHorse

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No, I have no idea how much of a reduction is
According to several sources, including Engineering Box, "Dry bolt torque is approximately 30% higher". so any lube would be 70% of dry.
 

ORRadtech

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I have had Fords since 1979 - 4 Mustangs, 2 Explorers, 2 Expeditions, Taurus, Edge, Escape, F-150, Ranger, Focus (Yes I like the Blue Oval). This is the FIRST time I have ever heard anyone complain about the lugs....EVER. So nope....never a problem, you are over thinking it and seem to be looking for issues.
Well, I've owned Fords since '72 and the last 2 I've had (12 Edge & 14 Fusion) and my daughters 13 Fiesta all have lugs that have had to be replaced because of the crappy design. The Edge now has solid lugs, much nicer now.
I'll probably replace the ones on my 18 EcoBoost convertible with solid because I don't trust them to last long with having to torque them to 150 lounds.
While I'm on the subject of torque, how in hell are we supposed to change a flat with that crappy factory jack handle? I just put a ratcheting 16" breaker bar with a 16" cheater with a good 21mm deep well socket in the wheel well, just in case.
 

boB

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150 lb*ft seems like a lot, when Tire Rack and others show 85-90 for 14 mm wheel studs. Ford has had this spec since 2015 so there must be a good reason. 2014 was 100 lb*ft for a 1/2" stud.
 

Grimmer

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According to several sources, including Engineering Box, "Dry bolt torque is approximately 30% higher". so any lube would be 70% of dry.
If the dry torque is 130% of the wet torque (x), and the dry torque is specified at 150 ft-lbs, then: 1.30x = 150 ft-lbs. Solving for the wet torque (x), we get 150/1.30 = 115 ft-lbs.
 

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BmacIL

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150 lb*ft seems like a lot, when Tire Rack and others show 85-90 for 14 mm wheel studs. Ford has had this spec since 2015 so there must be a good reason. 2014 was 100 lb*ft for a 1/2" stud.
85-90 is outside the normal range for typical M14 fastener torque specification. 150 falls within it, albeit on the higher end.

People always forget that the torque is specified to create elastic bolt stretch, which is what keeps the wheel retained under all conditions. It's not about the nut or the wheel.
 

boB

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85-90 is outside the normal range for typical M14 fastener torque specification. 150 falls within it, albeit on the higher end.

People always forget that the torque is specified to create elastic bolt stretch, which is what keeps the wheel retained under all conditions. It's not about the nut or the wheel.
I was going by the Caterpillar bolt tightening specs (yep, I have visited Aurora) since I still have the handbook. You are correct (and as you noted, most people forget) that the *only* thing that keeps a joint tight is bolt stretch.
 

Sivi70980

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I just arm tightened them, haven't lost a wheel yet. I check them when I check the oil.
 

BmacIL

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Sivi70980

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Hahah!! They're just lug nuts, nothing really scientific about them, they're tight enough to keep the wheels on or they aren't. I save my torque wrenches for the things that matter. I'm also not the guy to tighten the lugs in a circular pattern, star all the way. And because internet I'll say I'm not implying you are that guy/gal/person/dragon/cat/anything else you may decide to identify as. Happy Friday!!
 

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BmacIL

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Hahah!! They're just lug nuts, nothing really scientific about them, they're tight enough to keep the wheels on or they aren't. I save my torque wrenches for the things that matter. I'm also not the guy to tighten the lugs in a circular pattern, star all the way. And because internet I'll say I'm not implying you are that guy/gal/person/dragon/cat/anything else you may decide to identify as. Happy Friday!!
You just proved you don't know what you're talking about, or anything about joint design.
 

Sivi70980

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You just proved you don't know what you're talking about, or anything about joint design.
Nope, just a warehouse/parts order guy. Never said I did know anything about joint design but I do know as I've said before that lugs are either tight enough or they aren't. In my 20 years (likely less than most on here) of driving and occasionally fixing a flat or changing to winter wheels, I've never had a single issue with a wheel or even lug nut coming off. I can be just as OCD about torqueing stuff down as the next guy but I'm saying lugs aren't that serious. I highly doubt a 5lbs. torque difference on a lug will lose you the race or a wheel on your way home from work. You never see a nascar pit crew out there torqueing their wheels specifically and you wont ever be able to tell me their impacts are so advanced they torque that specifically either. So I agree, I don't know the specifics of what you're talking about but this thread wasn't pertaining to all of that either soooo...
 

kent0464

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If the dry torque is 130% of the wet torque (x), and the dry torque is specified at 150 ft-lbs, then: 1.30x = 150 ft-lbs. Solving for the wet torque (x), we get 150/1.30 = 115 ft-lbs.
Not really, a whole lot of tech and research goes into torque and lubes, that’s one of the reasons guys building engines etc get into trouble using motor oil for torque lube rather than the specified lube for the application.
 
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Dadillac

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Bought a set of Gorilla's last night. I have read too many horror stories about these lug nuts and do not want to chance anything. Murphy's Law and whatnot

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Norm Peterson

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I'm still on the factory tires and dred the day that a shop has to mount new tires and destroy my rims in the process. I'm leaning more and more towards mounting them myself, but would still need to find a shop to computer balance them.
Bring the wheels with the old tires still on them and the new tires to the shop of your choice after taking them off your Mustang. It may take a couple of trips each way, but the peace of mind may be worth it and the shop shouldn't mind not having to dismount and remount them to the car.


Norm
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