Plastic Pieces On Lug Nuts!?

[cop on my back]

I sense Darwin lurking somewhere in all of this.....

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[Sig556]

Aside from being completely confused. I can't believe a plastic piece will shear M14x1.5mm studs. Constant looseness and moving back and forth on the wheel will fracture wheel studs, Over torqueing will fracture wheel studs, improper torqueing will fracture wheel studs. This is why I change my wheels, and torque the wheels myself. I use a 22mm deep socket and an 18 inch extended 1/2 inch breaker bar. By the way a 7/8 inch 12 point socket fits the new studs like a glove. Just wrap a piece of duct tape around the body of the socket= scratch free wheels.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

Aside from being completely confused. I can't believe a plastic piece will shear M14x1.5mm studs. Constant looseness and moving back and forth on the wheel will fracture wheel studs, Over torqueing will fracture wheel studs, improper torqueing will fracture wheel studs. This is why I change my wheels, and torque the wheels myself. I use a 22mm deep socket and an 18 inch extended 1/2 inch breaker bar. By the way a 7/8 inch 12 point socket fits the new studs like a glove. Just wrap a piece of duct tape around the body of the socket= scratch free wheels. And I'm 74 years old.

The plastic spacer caused the wheel to NOT mount flush against the hub. The insueing wabble is what broke the studs.

 

[HISSMAN]

At first it didn't, but then it did. This thread delivered.

 

[WarrENDeatH]

We never put those rings on. So unless it came off the winter wheels, I don't get that. Secondly, 6000 miles and they bust? I don't get that either. Seems like it would be sooner considering all the interstate driving

 

[SiMuL]

Either way, there's no need to pay the dealer $500 to replace the hubs. They're just being lazy and going the easy route for their own benefit (double plus for them, since they're getting more profit from you too).

I would ask them to just replace the studs or put it back together as-is and go replace the studs yourself in their parking lot. Just to stick it to them.

[ame]

That video shows how to do this on a different car, but almost all cars are very similar.

If you don't want to do this yourself, and Ford refuses to just replace the lugs, take it to a wheel shop and they'll be able to sort you for much less $$.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I think I used medium thick washers like maybe 1/16 ones.
You don't really need to pull it flush. Just get it on enough so you can put the wheel back on to pull it all the way with the wheel in place.

It's really best to draw it all the way to where it suddenly gets a LOT harder to turn the wrench. It needlessly beats up the stud and lugnut threads and the lugnut and wheel tapers to try to pull it in the rest of the way 'dry' as part of putting the wheel back on the car.

Never mind that your first wheel re-installation might end up being nowhere near properly torqued if your wheel installation didn't pull the stud in solid - and if you hit it with a big impact gun to make sure it's solid you're at risk of the new stud breaking later from being badly overtorqued (even once can be too many times if the overtorquing is bad enough). Side note here - on the first wheel mounting even studs that were pressed in on replacement hub kits can relax their torque setting more than you might expect.


One thick washer at the flange end of your stack is probably a good idea, though the stainless washers being harder than the zinc-plated ones seem to resist being permanently deformed well enough for occasional use.


Norm

 

[BmacIL]

We never put those rings on. So unless it came off the winter wheels, I don't get that. Secondly, 6000 miles and they bust? I don't get that either. Seems like it would be sooner considering all the interstate driving

They probably did come off the winter wheels. That is what caused your stud failures. 6000 miles is not that long for a fatigue failure. Interstate driving doesn't put that much extra load on the studs. Cornering and braking does, though.

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