Do we actually "need" an oil cooler??

[raptor17GT]

yes, I believe it is M16 x1.5.

Ace, do you have a link to that gauge you bought, I think from your first video you just screwed it straight in without any further adaptors for the sensor?

Mach 1 has the air/oil cooler lifted from the GT350

Yeah that’s why I would like to see how they do the take off on a RHD.

Mentioned further up this thread - my ideal scenario would be the OE Ford RHD M1 take off and the Harrop cooler

WD

Now that would be an interesting OEM style fix though I'd be tempted to go full OEM for this. Harrop is the oil cooler that sits flat at the front, as we says that's handy for later upgrades for forced induction, should one need to roast the tyres more.

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[WD Pro]

Only problem with a full OEM style M1 kit is the position of the cooler and the need for a M1 style front bumper with the larger side vents (or extensive mods to the standard bumper ?).

The other option I had thought of as an option to the Harrop style cooler position, is a replacement Steeda bumper bar (ours corrode for fun anyway), strip it, tig some little brackets to it to mount the cooler directly above it and then get it powder coated before reassembly.

I think that option would also leave a lot of room for an intercooler and also make for a very neat install.

Ideally (and given more spare time) I would really like to spend some time under one of these cars with the belly pan off :

• M1 RHD take off.
• WD Pro style laser cut stainless brackets to mount the cooler like the Harrop.
• Size the brackets to take a standard Mocal cooler.
• Stainless fixings kit.
• Custom Aeroquip hoses.

I think that kit could be done for a lot cheaper than the current packages, it would use OE and high quality kit and it shouldn't be that difficult to fit at home only needing the car up on jack stands with the belly pan off.

To many projects, not enough time ... lol

WD

 

[Gloucesternige]

Ace, do you have a link to that gauge you bought, I think from your first video you just screwed it straight in without any further adaptors for the sensor?

No, I actually modified the thread on an old bsp bung I had laying around.
As for the gauge, I would get something better. They all come with 1/8npt or M10 x 1 senders as far as I can tell.
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[ice445]

Thanks for watching.
Trouble is with the head temp, is it an actual reading or is it a stupid made up calculated load of trash like the oil temp??
I was thinking, one sure solid way to get oil temp is to drive car to max temp, then drain oil and measure the stream as it runs out the sump??

CHT has an actual sensor in the (drivers for a RHD car) side cylinder head. I could look up the part number if you'd like, but I have seen it on the service manual diagrams. I'm wondering if the people who observed slower oil warm up after deleting the cooler also had slower CHT increase compared to stock. Could be the reason. It would make sense given engine heat can now only be applied to the cooling system through one vector (coolant circulating through the engine) and no longer being directly warmed by oil circulation.

 

[raptor17GT]

No, I actually modified the thread on an old bsp bung I had laying around.
As for the gauge, I would get something better. They all come with 1/8npt or M10 x 1 senders as far as I can tell.

aye i was going to get a different gauge just wanted to confirm sizes. Will look for a decent gauge this weekend and hopefully get it ordered then er fit it. Was looking at my OBD scanner, it has oil temperature listed............... for the shts and giggles i do wonder what it reads as temperature value, obv source will be inferred like dash but at least it'd be an actual figure not a needle against a green sweep on a gauge


edit: lots to read on this thread, i totally forgot about and should have spent more time here once i found it
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/the-big-fat-track-car-cooling-thread.53695/post-3538316

 

[raptor17GT]

So my torque pro OBD Bluetooth app thingy, doesn't show any oil temperature results, lists a few options but no values are read. Is VDO a good gauge / sensor combination? Seen plenty of Bosch sensors as well but no display for them as I presume OEM supplier this no external gauge display.

 

[Gloucesternige]

So my torque pro OBD Bluetooth app thingy, doesn't show any oil temperature results, lists a few options but no values are read. Is VDO a good gauge / sensor combination? Seen plenty of Bosch sensors as well but no display for them as I presume OEM supplier this no external gauge display.

Yes, VDO is good.

 

[WD Pro]

So my torque pro OBD Bluetooth app thingy, doesn't show any oil temperature results, lists a few options but no values are read. Is VDO a good gauge / sensor combination? Seen plenty of Bosch sensors as well but no display for them as I presume OEM supplier this no external gauge display.

SPA are pricey, but very nice

Black or white faces, choice of back lights, temp and pressure at the same time and programmable alarms.

They come with sensors and loom included, so bear that in mind with the cost

WD

 

[raptor17GT]

SPA are pricey, but very nice

Black or white faces, choice of back lights, temp and pressure at the same time and programmable alarms.

They come with sensors and loom included, so bear that in mind with the cost

WD

aye SPA are good gauges but for the temporary check i'm doing I dont want to spend that kind of money, not yet anyway.

 

[raptor17GT]

so er finally got myself together and have ordered a thermocouple sensor and reader (though i have a multimeter that reads K type) and a plug adaptor to fix into that blanking plate. Just need to confirm it all plugs together and get it stuck into the plate. Also started displaying the CHT on the dash, aye that blighter moves about.

 

[Gloucesternige]

Also started displaying the CHT on the dash, aye that blighter moves about.

How much does it move about by? It is in the back end of the R/H cylinder head, cant make out if its in the casting/oil or coolant? Edit:- Just checked the manual.. it is measuring coolant temperature.

With regard to fitting your sender unit.. when you remove the bolt/plug some oil will come out, about 2 eggcups full is all, so no need for any great big cans under there.

I look forward to your results. I read on the thread you posted above that someone saw 250°F WITH a Mishimoto cooler on track!!

 

[raptor17GT]

How much does it move about by? It is in the back end of the R/H cylinder head, cant make out if its in the casting/oil or coolant? Edit:- Just checked the manual.. it is measuring coolant temperature.

With regard to fitting your sender unit.. when you remove the bolt/plug some oil will come out, about 2 eggcups full is all, so no need for any great big cans under there.

I look forward to your results. I read on the thread you posted above that someone saw 250°F WITH a Mishimoto cooler on track!!

yeah the figures for the Mishimoto cooler weren't great lol But again, i dont track my car and certainly aint gonna set the road on fire but it'd be nice to know i'm not boiling the oil either.

Cheers for heads up on oil leakage, gonna watch your vid again to get routing of the cabling into the cabin as I'd like to keep it fairly tidy and not worry about it chaffing or cutting into the car. Or it getting set on fire by the exhaust, that'd be bad too.

Re CHT good to know it's actually a proper coolant temperature, something at last we can say is an absolute value though obv how accurate is it ha. MIne was shifting between 90degC and 100degC and that was on a 50mph road with mild acceleration, lunchtime traffic no choice really.

 

[Gloucesternige]

yeah the figures for the Mishimoto cooler weren't great lol But again, i dont track my car and certainly aint gonna set the road on fire but it'd be nice to know i'm not boiling the oil either.

Cheers for heads up on oil leakage, gonna watch your vid again to get routing of the cabling into the cabin as I'd like to keep it fairly tidy and not worry about it chaffing or cutting into the car. Or it getting set on fire by the exhaust, that'd be bad too.

Re CHT good to know it's actually a proper coolant temperature, something at last we can say is an absolute value though obv how accurate is it ha. MIne was shifting between 90degC and 100degC and that was on a 50mph road with mild acceleration, lunchtime traffic no choice really.

Reading the thread you linked earlier has me thinking our cars have the absolute minimum required to keep em running hot on the road. As soon as we get a little spirited we need to look at improving things?
have you seen the oil cooler on the GT4 Mustang? It’s bloody huge!!

 

[raptor17GT]

Reading the thread you linked earlier has me thinking our cars have the absolute minimum required to keep em running hot on the road. As soon as we get a little spirited we need to look at improving things?
have you seen the oil cooler on the GT4 Mustang? It’s bloody huge!!

i'm not sure how close we are to the limit re cooling though when Nissan started bringing R33 GTR's into the UK they fitted all sorts of extra coolers to them.

My thermocouple sensor fell through, cabling wasn't going to be long enough, heavily braided as well so although well insulated it weren't going to fit into the cabin never mind reach far enough to be useable. VDO gauges a bust as well as analogue sensors easy enough to get but no displays, fancy CANBUS jobs but nothing for a simple analogue. Honestly, this kind of thing should be damned near plug and play. Nige, how much cabling would you say is needed to run into the cabin from the blanking plate?

 

[Gloucesternige]

i'm not sure how close we are to the limit re cooling though when Nissan started bringing R33 GTR's into the UK they fitted all sorts of extra coolers to them.

My thermocouple sensor fell through, cabling wasn't going to be long enough, heavily braided as well so although well insulated it weren't going to fit into the cabin never mind reach far enough to be useable. VDO gauges a bust as well as analogue sensors easy enough to get but no displays, fancy CANBUS jobs but nothing for a simple analogue. Honestly, this kind of thing should be damned near plug and play. Nige, how much cabling would you say is needed to run into the cabin from the blanking plate?

As a temporary set up, there’s no need to run into the cabin. You could cable tie the gauge onto a cable or bracket in the inner wing and connect to the battery positive. Of course, if you want to go permanent I would run the sender cable through the sound tube hole in the passenger footwell

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