Diff bushing replacement, what's the secret?

[VictorH]

I'm replacing my differential bushings. Will be installing the Keltrack rubber ones. What's taking me longer than it should is just cutting out the rubber of the old bushings.
1) Tried a proper sized hole saw, but it gets so hot from all the friction it just won't do the job. Lubricating with oil helps just a bit but not much.
2) I've seen the "drill it with a drill bit method" but also very slow and not all that effective. (the way I'm doing it).
3) I've seen videos of some guys using a reciprocating saw, but I don't have one and other than this job, don't have any use for it.
4) No, I won't be burning out the bushings as that looks to be too much of a mess.

Any other suggestions/ideas? I can cut the steel sleeve once I have the rubber out, but I've completed one, struggling with the second one and still have two more to go. Anything that might speed up the process would be appreciated. Thankfully, I'll only have to do this once.

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[xr4x4ti]

I know you don't want to hear it, but Sawzall is the best. I show the install in this video of my AWD project.

 

[NGOT8R]

Burn them out with a propane torch.

 

[VictorH]

Appreciate the replies. I managed to get two of the rubber bushing inserts out with persistence, but it sure is slow. Once that's done, cutting the steel insert is not really a big deal even with a hacksaw, which worked for me. Got one insert out, the other one I didn't cut through far enough so now I'm peening the inside around and it's just now starting to slip out a bit.
I guess I'll see how much more pain, I can endure before I go buy yet another tool. Rule of thumb for me is when I start leaving drops of blood around my work area, it's time to wrap it up for the day. So it will wait till tomorrow.

 

[VictorH]

Current state. Two (and a half) to go.

 

[petronix]

You shouldn't need to get all the bushing out if you are removing the sleeve. Drill a hole near the sleeve big enough for saw blade to cut relief in sleeve and knock the whole thing out

 

[16RPG_Turbo]

Yup, I sawzalled mine and then knocked them out. I also put the new ones in the freezer overnight and then a light lubricant in the bore, and it pulled right in pretty easily. I would say getting the factory ones out was definitely the hardest part.

 

[VictorH]

Well, victory today, but it was a battle.
Reciprocating saw was clearly the best way. Rubber cut out in literally 2 minutes per bushing.
The sleeves still gave me some trouble as I was afraid I was cutting too far and would go through the sleeve, but evidently I never did, so getting the bushing sleeves out was still a challenge.
The other part of me doesn't like destroying parts to remove them so that probably contributed as well. Picture is of the last sleeve which of course was the toughest one.
Anyway, happy to have them all out today. Maybe can put new ones in tomorrow.

 

[Mr & Mrs Shrek]

Anyone
Why can't these be pressed out? I have seen a number of threads and wonder why this approach is never covered.

 

[VictorH]

I'll take a stab at that. Firstly the bushings are pressed "outside to inside." That means if you were to try a hydraulic press, you can't get it inside the subframe to press them back out.
Also, even with a bearing press, the flange of the bushing is really thin and it would be hard to find a good/exact fit to press out the bushing and it would likely just bend and not move.
Lastly, the interference fit is monster tight and the amount of friction you'd have to overcome is big and probably not in the realm of hobby mechanics like myself and others.

 

[16RPG_Turbo]

Yes they are a royal pain, but love them so far!!

 

[Cobra Jet]

Anyone
Why can't these be pressed out? I have seen a number of threads and wonder why this approach is never covered.

I would imagine pressing out would work if the cradle is out from under the car to get proper access and leverage. To do it under the car without a lift is not as easy.

Maximum Motorsports came up with a press tool used for Fox body Mustangs years ago that would press the entire bushing with steel shell out from the control arms/rear diff and it worked great. I checked their site but they only have (2) IRS bushing removal tools but these do not appear to be for any S550’s, but for the 03/04 SVT Cobra IRS.

I’m surprised a similar tool can’t be designed for the S550 - but again maybe one doesn’t exist (yet) because of how the IRS cradle is on the S550 making it impractical to do it while under the car?

 

[Cobra Jet]

Yes they are a royal pain, but love them so far!!

That’s a nice Steeda part in your image!

 

[16RPG_Turbo]

Steeda diff support brace, drag spring, drag sway bar and end links, and the replacement subframe bushings.

I replaced the rear lower arms with new Ford arms and ordered the spherical bushings from Steeda only to learn Ford no longer makes S550 rear lower arms; they only make S650 arms, and those bushings are smaller than the S550 bushings.

Steeda let me return the S550 bushings and then I ordered the S650 bushings that I needed, but by the time I received them, I already had the rear sub installed on the car, thanks to the certified HOA letter I received.... HAHAHA

I'm not in a rush but if I decide to install Kelltrac's new rear coilover setup later, I'll probably have the spherical bushings pressed in at that time.

That’s a nice Steeda part in your image!

 

[tdstuart]

As others have said reciprocating saw and an air hammer. You can buy both for pretty cheap at harbor freight and the amount of time, effort, and pain they save is worth the money. Tried avoiding it when I first did this but in the end I said f it and I’m glad I did, made things a lot easier.

Also let’s stop kidding ourselves, if you are at the point where you are replacing your own diff bushings, chances are you will probably use a reciprocating saw and an air hammer again. Now you just have to figure out where the hell you are going to keep putting all these new tools

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