Diff bushing replacement, what's the secret?

[VictorH]

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT
So, I was one of those Mustang guys who had the problem with the passenger side active exhaust valve connection shorting out on the body seam.
I clearanced that area, maybe 3-4 years ago (picture #1) but with removal of exhaust I noticed it's still rubbing (but not shorting out yet). You can't see it but the metal is shiny in two spots.

Picture two is additional clearance which I'm thinking should be enough.
Last picture is the Connector which was mangled from round one but it's more messed up now (new one on order from one of our sponsors here).

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[VictorH]

Bushings going in. Much easier than removal.
Couple of observations. Cleaned out each bore first with wire brush followed by 220 grit sandpaper by hand. Wipe clean and dry.
1) Used silicone spray in the bushing bore and liberally on the bushing.
2) White lithium grease on the threaded rod. Friction is not high so this is not absolute.
3) I didn't see the need to freeze the rubber bushings, plus it makes them stiff and less flexible. One step that I don't think is needed, unless for some reason you have super-tight interference fit.

 

[16RPG_Turbo]

Looks good!

 

[VictorH]

Thank you! Final product all cleaned up waiting for diff.

 

[VictorH]

Subframe is back in and torqued.
Was hoping I could replace the rear trailing arm bushings myself but my 12 Ton hydraulic press is not strong enough to push out the bushing. It only squeezes out a little bit of oil from the bottle jack and nothing else happens :(
I might take to machine shop on Monday unless someone has a sure-fire way to remove the bushings myself through some other method.

 

[petronix]

Spray around bushing sleeve, both sides with liquid wrench or whatever penetrating oil is around.
Put in press and tighten down as much as your dare. Get hammer (bfh) and tap on press to give it an extra nudge. This worked for me on both arms. Caution that thing may go flying.

 

[VictorH]

I will give that a try, let the oil soak overnight and see what happens tomorrow.

 

[wingnutt]

Also let’s stop kidding ourselves, if you are at the point where you are replacing your own diff bushings, chances are you will probably use a reciprocating saw and an air hammer again. Now you just have to figure out where the hell you are going to keep putting all these new tools

yes, this…I dare say most of us look for a job that requires another tool to add to the box, even if only for a job or two.

not sure how you gotten along this far without a sawzall, still have my ancient cord powered one in the garage…that we used to build a long home back in ‘07

 

[tdstuart]

not sure how you gotten along this far without a sawzall, still have my ancient cord powered one in the garage…that we used to build a long home back in ‘07

Haha I was born in 04, so the Mustang has been my first project car and I’m either borrowing my dads tools or collecting new ones to get it finished

 

[wingnutt]

Haha I was born in 04, so the Mustang has been my first project car and I’m either borrowing my dads tools or collecting new ones to get it finished

ahhhh, ok then…just chalk me up as Old Man Simpson, I have tools older than you and me put together

 

[VictorH]

Old bushings out, new ones are in. I already knew this but, replacing bushings on any car is just NOT my favorite job by far.
Tried using my press, even with upgraded 20T bottle jack, just got one "pop" and one of the bushings moved 1/8" and that's about it. So, back to the usual, cut out the rubber (boy the voids in those rear bushings are huge), this time used a jig saw with a long blade and used same, but with metal blade, for the metal sleeve. I'm still too cautious with cutting the sleeve, maybe if I do another car or two, I will feel comfortable just hacking all the way through the sleeve.

The rear pivot arm bearings, I did put in the freezer for about 8 hours, then cleaned the arms, applied high-strength sleeve retainer and pressed them in. No problem.
My regular snap-ring pliers were too small (wouldn't go wide enough), had to use the monster set which worked great and the rings popped into their grooves nicely.

In the home stretch now, just reassembly (while waiting for some parts to arrive) and will be closer to getting car back on the road.

 

[wingnutt]

Gotta ask…are you doing this to the 2021 M1 in your profile?

if so…why? Or are you just going to a different style?

 

[VictorH]

Fair question. Are these "upgrades" absolutely necessary? No. Might they be beneficial? Maybe.
I've been down this route before with other vehicles. It's really just about fine tuning the suspension for my liking. My car sees a fair amount of track use, even at events 1,000 miles from me. However, it's a fine line between, modest improvements and a compromise that is way too much for a street car.
Almost all OEMs, even for their performance models, have a very significant focus on comfort and minimizing NVH, but that too comes at a cost. Hoping I'm not sacrificing too much for a marginal increase in performance (granted the diff bushings will do nothing for performance but maybe a bit for longevity of the mounts).
I know initially this will be a bit louder and with a bit more NVH, but will report back as to whether it was worth it or not.

 

[wingnutt]

Roger that

 

[VictorH]

Going back together like a Lego set. Placed axles, with the outer carrier, torqued all the big boy bolts, refilled diff, installed shocks, reconnected the electrical connections.
Now I'm in limbo for a bit.
1) I've run PCF V3 rotors in the past 2 cars for over 15 years. Prior ring replacements were highly available (that was in a BMW). Now I'm being told, the only front replacement rings are in Spain and the rears might not be available at all. I live literally 90 minutes from the factory and I can't get any replacements. Local shop is working on things, but I'm two week in now. Might have to put the stock rotors back on. I think they are the best rotors around, but now I don't think I can recommend them for Mustang folks if the availability is so poor.
2) Small parts coming from Levittown Ford tomorrow which is good.
3) Waiting on Cortex racing rear toe arms, hopefully to arrive later this week. Have been running stock one since day one, but it loses its settings after 8-10 track events.

Getting close but now just waiting for a few more pieces.

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