Question On Steeda Diff Bushing Inserts

[kz]

I had to remove the front subframe bolts completely, and loosen the rear bolts quite a bit to get the front to come down far enough. Obviously, just make sure you are supporting the differential with a jack and let it come down slowly

Thanks - I have done is already twice (loosened subrame / removed bolts) while replacing rear springs and installing subframe bushing supports but I've seen people saying that that front diff bolts are difficult to install on 18+ since whatever limits the space there is different from 15-17. Thanks again.

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[Bluemustang]

They left one part out of that statement: with your stereo turned up there is no nvh..lol

Or your exhaust lol.

 

[SteedaTech]

Hahahaha. Zero NVH is a complete lie.

From Steeda USA
take 3-4 hours to install and force you to permanently modify the rear IRS suspension with a sawzall, Steeda's does not! Our kit installs in under 1 hour, adds little to no increase in NVH , is adjustable and can be easily removed - it simply doesn't get any better than this!

Blue Mustang thanks for the heads up. I will pass this along to Steeda UK

Steeda Tech

 

[Bluemustang]

From Steeda USA
take 3-4 hours to install and force you to permanently modify the rear IRS suspension with a sawzall, Steeda's does not! Our kit installs in under 1 hour, adds little to no increase in NVH , is adjustable and can be easily removed - it simply doesn't get any better than this!

Blue Mustang thanks for the heads up. I will pass this along to Steeda UK

Steeda Tech

I have the Steeda diff inserts on my car. I would personally just modify the description on Steeda's website to state there may be minor NVH associated with it. It's mostly diff whine. It isn't bad enough that I wanted to go through the trouble of removing them. That said, the competitors diff inserts will cause this diff whine also. I think it's just the nature of it.

 

[BluePonyGT]

I had to remove the front subframe bolts completely, and loosen the rear bolts quite a bit to get the front to come down far enough. Obviously, just make sure you are supporting the differential with a jack and let it come down slowly

Anyone installing a set of these should really think about a couple of things if they need to drop their subframe bolts:

1. One should definitely install the alignment and support kit if you're going to this trouble to get bushings in. Seriously, do it at the same time. The alignment kit alone revealed my rear subframe was off-center by almost 5/16" when I put them in and it made some big improvements afterwards.
2. IF you're thinking about swapping your rear springs this is the time to do it. i already installed the alignment and support kit almost 2 years ago, so this will be the 2nd time I'll be dropping my rear sub-frame. So progressive springs will be going in the same time as this bushing kit.

Just have a stout 2nd jack (transmission jack would be perfect) that can keep that diff supported but give you the flexibility to move it around a tiny bit, raise and lower a measured amount, etc. Transmission jacks are perfect for that.

Oh and follow the directions. Steeda's instructions are pretty good.

 

[JP_Stang]

^ This! I too waited until I collected the alignment kit, subframe bushing supports and diff bushings before tackling this job.

 

[WD Pro]

Thanks guys

I already have the steeda H ready for fitting (when the car arrives ...) and have the diff support bushes, subframe alignment kit and IRS braces in my steeda watch list.

My plan was to do everything once the exhaust comes off to fit the H pipe

WD

 

[NastyPumpkin]

I have tried all 3. The red has some NVH (not too bad). The Black & Aluminum have a lot, both about the same NVH.

 

[Bluemustang]

Honestly for 95%+ of people these are not necessary and are only going to give you diff whine. These are really for drag racing and increasing efficiency to put power down. I don't see a lot if any tangible improvements for a street or track car.
I did notice differences in how it felt post-install but I did it at the same time as rear lower control arm bearings so not a fair comparison.

 

[shogun32]

I would personally just modify the description on Steeda's website to state there may be minor NVH associated with it. It's mostly diff whine.

I can corroborate. It's intermittent and very clearly audible. If it was constant then yeah I'd probably drive one crazy. But it seems to be on->off throttle transition that instigates it and at certain diff RPMs that set up the harmonics. About 2 seconds and it goes away.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

For what it's worth, I did BMR inserts (got the kit dumb cheap) and it added more gear noise than I cared for. They are a harder material than the Steeda red but less than the blacks. But what I did to help was add a heavier gear oil from BG.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p2/...FORD_MUSTANG_REAR_AXLE_LUBE_CHANGE_KIT.html#/

I got the 75-140.


This cured most of the noise. I could only hear it with the radio pretty much off and cruising off the throttle (free flowing exhaust). This was on my 2015 GTPP. I plan on doing the Steeda red inserts on my 2018 GTPP.

 

[Ghost50]

I have the black installed along with the upgraded hardware and I love them.

Yes there is some gear whine. The only time I really notice it is if I’m on the highway without the radio on and in 5th/6th gear.

I installed them about a year ago and I’d owned my car at the time for about eight months and one of my stock rubber ones was already torn. And I’d only had several track passes on it.

When coupled with the other stuff I’ve got in the suspension it was another step in helping eliminate that driveline sloppiness.

Eventually I’ll change the driveshaft and shifter too.

 

[gixxersixxerman]

Anyone saying “zero” noise either lying or just maybe can’t hear that frequency. It’s there but it’s not bad. The thud I’ve picked up putting it in first or second is way more noticeable. I only have the rear pucks in, I haven’t installed the front though I’m thinking of doing it this weekend and modifying the rear puck to fit the right rear mount. It’s tabs look different then what’s in the installation guides and videos. Like a rubber tab much bigger then the cut out on the red bushing. Right now it’s just tightened on it but I plan on redoing it and maybe installing the bmr bolt kit. While everything else is Steeda, hard to spend 100$ on 4 bolts. I know they are awesome, and all, and don’t have to drill.. but just can’t do it

 

[shogun32]

Eventually I’ll change ... shifter too.

Steeda shifter rear bracket fixes that right up for a very modest cost.

hard to spend 100$ on 4 bolts

All the Grade 12 kits are $50 and the BMR one is less as I recall.

 

[GregO]

Just installed Steeda Reds. The cradle has BMR Stage 1 lockout with Steeda aligment pins and billet shock mounts a few years back.
Yes there was an increase in gear whine.
Is it crazy, NOPE.
I'm now interested in changing out my Motul Gear 300 75W-90 to Gear Competition 75W140.
Would I do this again ? If it prevents the OEM Diff bushings from ripping apart, Hell Yeah.
Ozzy's Boneyard, Hair Nation and Liquid Metal take care of a little gear whine perfectly.......
My better half hates the car anyways. This is a win win.

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