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2019 Bullitt, bought new. Plan to keep it...

Issue does sound pretty minor. I would take the oil fill cap off while idling and listen for any unusual valve train noise. Could be something is starting to wear down with chain tensioners, phasers, or actual valve lift components.

I have the Cortex front links with FP Magneride Suspension kit and GT350 Camber plates. With Magneride, increased camber, and the FP bar I did get MOOG links to barely fit after relocating the wires on the struts. The Cortex however fit great with a much easier install. Don't over torque the...

It looks like your tie rods are installed in a high position of the bump steer kit. Looks like it's about the same as stock position. If car is lowered more than an inch, then the tie rods should be mounted lower for the bump steer kit to be effective. Agree that rear camber is too much...

FWIW. My 2002 Lincoln Blackwood came from the factory with a 5.4 L 32 valve motor. This is basically a detuned 2002 Cobra R motor. It also came in Lincoln Navigators. I wonder why Ford went smaller...

If they got that wrong, I wouldn't trust that the toe is set correctly either. This is why I have been doing my own alignments with toe plates and / or strings for many years on many vehicles...

Could spray with plastidip and see if you like it. Pretty easy to peal off back to original

Roush is offering a MagneRide Performance Calibration for $135. I suppose this would end up being similar to the Ford VDM calibration that is only available as part of the full Magneride suspension kit. Has anyone tried this Roush stand alone alternative? Or with their spring kit? FYI. I am...

The Cortex fits excellent, but beware of the torque spec. Stock is 85 lb ft. Cortex is 45 lb ft. There were no instructions included in the box. I tried to tighten the first nut to 85 ft lb and it stripped. I had to use a nut splitter to remove it from the car. A real PITA. If you search on the...

My factory alignment wore the original tires like that. Since setting front to 1/16" in toe in, second set wore evenly. Don't let anyone tell you any amount of toe out in the front is fine for street driving.

Take off the wheels and see it there are rub marks on the inner plastic fender liners.

Use heel of foot on brake. Rotate foot clockwise and use toes to blip gas pedal. This has worked for every car I have owned (quite a few) or driven, including my 2019 Bullitt.

Toe links are cheaper than corded tires and another alignment.

I use the open sided socket and two wrenchs stacked on the shaft. Still wouldn't hold to prescribed torque though. That is a good-n-tight torque spec fastener to me. Tight enoough not to clunk or loosen up is good enough there. Even with "proper" tools, I had to use battery impact to loosen...

In addition to the above... WifeInCar (Normal)

Those look just like 2019 / 2020 Bullitt wheels, except the Bullitt wheels are black, not gray. I like those. They would probably look good on a Bullitt as well. I saw a CS with those wheels and was surprised.

Your toe is incorrect both front and rear. Toe out out front (as you have evident with negative values) will cause the car to want to dart around and wear out the inside wheel tread. The rear does not have enough toe in either, which can cause the car to want to spin. Toe values should be...

If you aren't replacing the toe links, you shouldn't need to remove them from the car, only from the knuckle. I would recommend replacing the toe links with adjustable ones though and eliminate the the adjuster cams. The adjuster cams are pretty terrible and are known not to hold alignment, once...

Could be the driveshaft carrier bearing support also. Mine clunks when I get of and on the throttle at low rpms.

I used the Moog sway bar links when I installed the Ford Racing front sway bar. I later found that the bar ends were not level and were causing the ride height to be lower on driver side then passenger side. I installed an adjustable link on the passenger side and lengthened it about a half inch...