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Cooling Mod?

Jackson1320

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I’m sorry I don’t know where you got this information. but it’s Inaccurate. More than inaccurate it’s absolutely false. This is a easy cheap modification that will keep your engine running at a even temperature. cylinders seven and eight Run hotter than all the other cylinders. Both you and your ecu have no way of knowing Until you break a piston, crack a ring land, dropped a valve seat, blow a head gasket, crack a head.
If your car has an aftermarket tune of any kind this modification is Worth every penny. There are hundreds of posts about this problem.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...KHVevCqkQ1QIwFnoECBsQAQ&biw=375&bih=749&dpr=3
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Jackson1320

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The GT350s and the 03-04 Cobra are the cars that actually need the head cooling mod. The 5.0s don't necessarily need this mod but it's something to do when your transmission is out.
I’m sorry I don’t know where you got this information. but it’s Inaccurate. More than inaccurate it’s absolutely false. Before now I actually thought lethal had some knowledgeable employees. This is a easy cheap modification that will keep your engine running at a even temperature. cylinders seven and eight Run hotter than all the other cylinders. Both you and your ecu have no way of knowing Until you break a piston, crack a ring land, dropped a valve seat, blow a head gasket, crack a head.
If your car has an aftermarket tune of any kind this modification is Worth every penny. There are hundreds of posts about this problem.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...KHVevCqkQ1QIwFnoECBsQAQ&biw=375&bih=749&dpr=3
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/cylinder-8-down-on-compression-and-misfire.136918/
 
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Draklia

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This is scary to me a little thinking how I hot lapped my procharged 2016 at the drag strip this summer. Went out to the 1/4 mile strip 4 times this summer. I always got there at opening before the crowd grew so I could get the most runs around in and then go home when staging filled up with cars. It was always over 90f (some nights close to 100f) out and one night I think I got 11 runs in 1.5 hours. The transmission tunnel was so hot driving home that I’m thinking it cooked my center console USB as that’s the last night music would play from that connection. I was glad that I did the OPG install, but had forgotten this cooling mod was a thing.
 

15GaurdGT

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If you're making more power. Do this mod!

This is #8.

Procharged only making a little over 600.

IMG_20201017_182941_442.jpg
 
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Someone needs to make an installation kit that has everything needed to do it with the engine still in. The kit itself is $200 for the parts.

@Jackson1320 what do you charge in your shop to do this?
 

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Andrew@Lethal

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I’m sorry I don’t know where you got this information. but it’s Inaccurate. More than inaccurate it’s absolutely false. Before now I actually thought lethal had some knowledgeable employees. This is a easy cheap modification that will keep your engine running at a even temperature. cylinders seven and eight Run hotter than all the other cylinders. Both you and your ecu have no way of knowing Until you break a piston, crack a ring land, dropped a valve seat, blow a head gasket, crack a head.
If your car has an aftermarket tune of any kind this modification is Worth every penny. There are hundreds of posts about this problem.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...KHVevCqkQ1QIwFnoECBsQAQ&biw=375&bih=749&dpr=3
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/cylinder-8-down-on-compression-and-misfire.136918/
I am aware of what it does. I never had a 5.0 owner tell me they had a head cooling problem with their motors. Me being a 2003 Cobra owner my self I know first hand the cobras are plagued with this issue if you pull the valve covers the drivers side shows substantial signs of heat than the passenger side. I get calls from 03/04 Cobra owners and GT350 owners all of the time asking for the remedy for this probably because these cars spend more time on the track. It will of course work on the 5.0s but it is not certainly needed unless you are heavily tracking your car and making serious power. Give me a call i'll be happy to explain to you what it does and if it is needed for your application. tel:1.561.753.8105
 

Jackson1320

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I am aware of what it does. I never had a 5.0 owner tell me they had a head cooling problem with their motors. Me being a 2003 Cobra owner my self I know first hand the cobras are plagued with this issue if you pull the valve covers the drivers side shows substantial signs of heat than the passenger side. I get calls from 03/04 Cobra owners and GT350 owners all of the time asking for the remedy for this probably because these cars spend more time on the track. It will of course work on the 5.0s but it is not certainly needed unless you are heavily tracking your car and making serious power. Give me a call i'll be happy to explain to you what it does and if it is needed for your application. tel:1.561.753.8105
if you’re coyote does a pull once then has cool down time. than you don’t need the cooling mod.
If you do a roll race on the freeway and they wanna run it back now you are at risk and this mod is for you.
if you track your coyote definitely get the cooling mod.
I know what it does And no thank you already have it
 
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Torinate

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QUOTE="Jackson1320, post: 3053958, member: 44765"]
2 hours labor
[/QUOTE]

2 hours labour to me is well worth it! Wish you were at least reasonably close by. For that money, I would think there would be a few people looking to have this done. Where’s your shop? Honestly though, I have no idea how you do it with the motor in etc... but after doing one, I would think you pick up tricks on doing them and they get easier.

So basically a $500 mod give or take for a little More peace of mind of not blowing up. I too would love to see some form of results though if people who have done this and had positive experience. It’s hard to quantify though.

Anyone else out here done this mod and have noticed anything?
 

thelostotter

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I installed the MMR kit while rebuilding my NA engine after I lost cylinders 7-8. It was pretty simple with the heads on the workbench, seems like it would really suck to do the job with the engine in the car.

I don't really have a way to verify that they reduce the temps on the rearward portion of the driver side head, but I really don't want to rebuild it again so I spent the money for the kit blindly hoping it at least does something.
 

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sigintel

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@Jackson1320 has an excellent grasp of this. After running a 2015 w Whipple on road courses in hot arse Texas, I really wish I had done this mod even though trying to keep CHTs below 235-242 sustained on track. 7,8 dropped below 180 compression after 2 seasons. Had to back Whipple off to 4.0 pulley and add more cooling. Still cooked 8 off.
 

Bmaughan

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If there is no way to confirm lower temps on cylinder seven and eight after the mod how are people confirming that it actually is working. Just simply that 7 and 8 aren’t burning up?
 

Grimreaper

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If there is no way to confirm lower temps on cylinder seven and eight after the mod how are people confirming that it actually is working. Just simply that 7 and 8 aren’t burning up?
I believe that's what we have at this point. Why honeybadgers build and post season tear downs would be useful. Most aren't going back in after a build unless it lets go. Dont blame them or expect them to either

T'ing in a thermocoupler with a hole tapped into the mmr drivers bank fitting is entirely plausible to measure temps. Remove the line, plug the fittings and then install the bypass line and compare.

Are there any detailed flow of coolant through the block/ heads? Most diagrams show only through the rad/ pump and hoses
 

ice445

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Is this also needed for Gen3 5.0?
Needed no, valuable yes. They didn't change the head cooling design. Running boost imo is the best reason to do this mod, since more power = a lot more heat to disperse in the same time frame. NA its not really a big deal. E85 also would make this a non issue.
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