Cooling Mod?

[Jackson1320]

First Remove the battery box part of the firewall. Then I have A small air cylinder About 3”-4” that I put back behind the head between the firewall. 150psi air and it punches the freeze plug into the cylinder head kinda like a air hammer. then grab it with 45* or 90* needle nose pliers and pull it out. New one bolts in so it’s easy. Shop is in Northern California, Ukiah

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[Jackson1320]

I believe that's what we have at this point. Why honeybadgers build and post season tear downs would be useful. Most aren't going back in after a build unless it lets go. Dont blame them or expect them to either

T'ing in a thermocoupler with a hole tapped into the mmr drivers bank fitting is entirely plausible to measure temps. Remove the line, plug the fittings and then install the bypass line and compare.

Are there any detailed flow of coolant through the block/ heads? Most diagrams show only through the rad/ pump and hoses

Coolant flows in the front of the block then up into the heads. Out the top front of the heads. Drivers side goes back to water pump and/or the radiator. Passenger side goes to the heater core then back to water pump and/or radiator

 

[Jackson1320]

If there is no way to confirm lower temps on cylinder seven and eight after the mod how are people confirming that it actually is working. Just simply that 7 and 8 aren’t burning up?

same test on a subie but this is the theory

 

[Torinate]

First Remove the battery box part of the firewall. Then I have A small air cylinder About 3”-4” that I put back behind the head between the firewall. 150psi air and it punches the freeze plug into the cylinder head kinda like a air hammer. then grab it with 45* or 90* needle nose pliers and pull it out. New one bolts in so it’s easy. Shop is in Northern California, Ukiah

Damn! You make it sound easy!

Unfortunately, you couldn’t be further from to have you do it. How many have you done?

I would love to get this done, maybe for a little peace of mind. May be snake oil as results are not quantifiable, but if it truly helps reduce 7&8 cylinder head temps and provides a little insurance it’s a great mod.

Question though, where does the coolant flow after the crossover between heads? Does it just equalize the head temps between the 2 and therefore get a better reading of actual head temps on 7&8 from 4 where the sensor is?

Any picks of the air tool you use to pop the plug? Can the plug be “lost” inside or is it easy to pull out once it’s inside? How difficult is it to mount the connection onto the head? From the previous video, he froze them to make it easier and still had to use a mallet to get them in. Obviously there’s no room for that still on the car to use a mallet.

Got an install video? Any advice or tips for someone looking to do this?

Thanks

 

[Jackson1320]

Damn! You make it sound easy!

Unfortunately, you couldn’t be further from to have you do it. How many have you done?

I would love to get this done, maybe for a little peace of mind. May be snake oil as results are not quantifiable, but if it truly helps reduce 7&8 cylinder head temps and provides a little insurance it’s a great mod.

Question though, where does the coolant flow after the crossover between heads? Does it just equalize the head temps between the 2 and therefore get a better reading of actual head temps on 7&8 from 4 where the sensor is?

Any picks of the air tool you use to pop the plug? Can the plug be “lost” inside or is it easy to pull out once it’s inside? How difficult is it to mount the connection onto the head? From the previous video, he froze them to make it easier and still had to use a mallet to get them in. Obviously there’s no room for that still on the car to use a mallet.

Got an install video? Any advice or tips for someone looking to do this?

Thanks

You can tie into the heater hose and allow the coolant to circulate which is my preference. If you go one head to the other then you are just getting a better true temp to the sensor. Cylinder looks just like this, I think it was $40. Once you knock it in there’s nowhere for it to go so easy to get. The MMR cooling mod fits in very easy. I could not find my thermo gun so I ordered a new one so I can test the cooling mod. I’ll post video

 

[sigintel]

@Jackson1320
Thanks for contributing!

 

[Boosted21]

You can tie into the heater hose and allow the coolant to circulate which is my preference. If you go one head to the other then you are just getting a better true temp to the sensor. Cylinder looks just like this, I think it was $40. Once you knock it in there’s nowhere for it to go so easy to get. The MMR cooling mod fits in very easy. I could not find my thermo gun so I ordered a new one so I can test the cooling mod. I’ll post video

Hey Jackson, I’m about to supercharge my 2021 gt and I’m thinking of getting this mod. Did you ever check the temps with that thermal gun and if so what were the results?

thanks

 

[Jackson1320]

i forgot. ill try to get some answers today

 

[Boosted21]

i forgot. ill try to get some answers today

Thanks I’d appreciate it. I ordered one but decided to cancel because I can’t find any good data about it even from MMR. I don’t want to spend the money for no reason.

 

[Boosted21]

i forgot. ill try to get some answers today

Also what’s your opinion on oil breathers for the crankcase. It seems controversial. It makes sense to want to relieve blow by in the crankcase when boosted but how much blowby would actually blow a gasket? I don’t like trusting check valves either I bought I UPR crankcase breather that has a ball check valve but I’m thinking about canceling it. I saw a comment on YouTube that made a solid case against them.

 

[AvalancheSVT]

guys, ford has been making this engine design since the early 90's. that's over 30 years. the 3rd gen coyote is in a long line, like over a dozen generations, of engines using this design.

it is a good low cost high value thing to do if the motor or trans is out, though.

 

[Boosted21]

guys, ford has been making this engine design since the early 90's. that's over 30 years. the 3rd gen coyote is in a long line, like over a dozen generations, or engines using this design.

it is a good low cost high value thing to do if the motor or trans is out, though.

Everyone is saying that but if that’s the case why is it so hard to find any data about it? It’s been around for years so you’d think there would be a few videos proving its function. For me I want my car to be as reliable as possible when boosted so anything I can do to make that happen I’ll do. I want to believe that it works I just like to see some evidence. The video in this forum with the Subaru didn’t look like much temp difference at all would be nice to have seen the car driven to see what the temps were right after.

 

[AvalancheSVT]

Everyone is saying that but if that’s the case why is it so hard to find any data about it? It’s been around for years so you’d think there would be a few videos proving its function. For me I want my car to be as reliable as possible when boosted so anything I can do to make that happen I’ll do. I want to believe that it works I just like to see some evidence. The video in this forum with the Subaru didn’t look like much temp difference at all would be nice to have seen the car driven to see what the temps were right after.

if you're boosting then you're outside of normal engine operation and should do the mod.
all it does is make sure coolant flows through both heads equally front to back.

if you're stock and not doing track days this is probably a waste.
if you do track days its a maybe.
if you're boosted you should definitely do it.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

You could also use the flip to that. Say its been years and if there was no benefit many users would have stated that, or had someone post they melted 7/8 with the mod. I haven’t come across that, it may be out there. I was planning on doing the mod, tranny was going to be out anyway, so it was a no brainer. My local dyno guy said they hadn’t seen an issue with number eight since they started doing the mod on there installs several years ago. Over the years I’ve dealt with the affects of cooling not being adequate, wether its cars, boats, equipment, whatever. I just can’t justify not spending what in most cases is virtually no cost in the big picture when it comes to upgrading the cooling for peace of mind on just about anything.

Everyone is saying that but if that’s the case why is it so hard to find any data about it? It’s been around for years so you’d think there would be a few videos proving its function. For me I want my car to be as reliable as possible when boosted so anything I can do to make that happen I’ll do. I want to believe that it works I just like to see some evidence. The video in this forum with the Subaru didn’t look like much temp difference at all would be nice to have seen the car driven to see what the temps were right after.

 

[Grimreaper]

Iirc honeybadger was going to run this with sensors fitted but removed it. Dont recall if he had a reason. Believe the oil crossover was more verifiable as a benefit for true track rats.

i do wonder if #8 is a product of emissions and then us pushing things beyond what was designed. in stock form #8 is trimmed to run leaner than the rest near redline, about 5% less than #4. only tune from Ford ive seen this imbalance zeroed out on is the voodoo and cobrajet and some early roush/whipple blowers (not ford tune)

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