Coolers

[MrMike]

Apologies since this has likely been done to death. I've read some threads and I think I know the answers to these, but just wanted to double check:

Is there a passive rear diff cooling option? I've researched this a decent amount, and I am 90% sure the answer is no. I'd be ok using the GT350 rear ducting / lock out plate but I don't think the GT350 diff cooler fits a regular GT. I feel like just changing to heavier fluid would likely be enough for me for some time, but if a passive product exists (that works with the GT350 valance / closeout panel) I'd be interested.

Is there a passive transmission cooling option for the MT82? I don't care if I have to remove fog lights or bumper swap. I see the GT350 and Mach 1 having one and it makes me think it's something needed for track use. If I'm overthinking it, I'm fine being called out on that also.

The Morimoto Ultimate kit is a little pricey, but seems like a safe way to get a rad / oil cooling upgrade on a non-PP car.

Brakes and associated cooling have tons of options -- not worried about that.

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[Biggsy]

Apologies since this has likely been done to death. I've read some threads and I think I know the answers to these, but just wanted to double check:

Is there a passive rear diff cooling option? I've researched this a decent amount, and I am 90% sure the answer is no. I'd be ok using the GT350 rear ducting / lock out plate but I don't think the GT350 diff cooler fits a regular GT. I feel like just changing to heavier fluid would likely be enough for me for some time, but if a passive product exists (that works with the GT350 valance / closeout panel) I'd be interested.

Is there a passive transmission cooling option for the MT82? I don't care if I have to remove fog lights or bumper swap. I see the GT350 and Mach 1 having one and it makes me think it's something needed for track use. If I'm overthinking it, I'm fine being called out on that also.

The Morimoto Ultimate kit is a little pricey, but seems like a safe way to get a rad / oil cooling upgrade on a non-PP car.

Brakes and associated cooling have tons of options -- not worried about that.

outside of changing the diff cover to one that aids in cooling the only other option is a diff cooler like the Full tilt boogie or MMR one or piece together your own.

Others have made a trans cooler set up. similar to that of the diff cooler kit. Here is a link to what @Scootsmcgreggor did and his Parts list.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/s16-mustang.15784/post-282813

 

[MrMike]

outside of changing the diff cover to one that aids in cooling the only other option is a diff cooler like the Full tilt boogie or MMR one or piece together your own.

Others have made a trans cooler set up. similar to that of the diff cooler kit. Here is a link to what @Scootsmcgreggor did and his Parts list.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/s16-mustang.15784/post-282813

Thanks man. I was looking at the MMR one if I had to go active for the rear diff, then I found their rear cover also: https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1447

I like all the fins, dunno how I missed that the first time. I could definitely get some airflow up there with the GT350 closeout panel. The FP one I saw before (M-4033-G4) doesn't have any fins.

 

[Biggsy]

Thanks man. I was looking at the MMR one if I had to go active for the rear diff, then I found their rear cover also: https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1447

I like all the fins, dunno how I missed that the first time. I could definitely get some airflow up there with the GT350 closeout panel. The FP one I saw before (M-4033-G4) doesn't have any fins.

@TeeLew shared a link here to one that has actual data

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/track-time-limited-due-to-high-cht.166499/post-3794857

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

At least based on the tracks I drove there wasn’t going to be any passive cooling efficient enough to keep temps down for me. So active it was.

as an aside and shameless plug my trans cooler setup linked above is for sale if anyone is interested. I also built a diff cooler very similar to the FTBR one which is also for sale. Both very effective and only a couple events on them.

 

[MrMike]

@TeeLew shared a link here to one that has actual data

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/track-time-limited-due-to-high-cht.166499/post-3794857

Fins look even better on that than the MMR one but big price tag especially considering it's in EU.

 

[Biggsy]

Fins look even better on that than the MMR one but big price tag especially considering it's in EU.

Agreed. I feel like if you are trying to make a certain weight then that is the way to go over a cooler which weighs more.

 

[luc]

Apologies since this has likely been done to death. I've read some threads and I think I know the answers to these, but just wanted to double check:

Is there a passive rear diff cooling option? I've researched this a decent amount, and I am 90% sure the answer is no. I'd be ok using the GT350 rear ducting / lock out plate but I don't think the GT350 diff cooler fits a regular GT. I feel like just changing to heavier fluid would likely be enough for me for some time, but if a passive product exists (that works with the GT350 valance / closeout panel) I'd be interested.

Is there a passive transmission cooling option for the MT82? I don't care if I have to remove fog lights or bumper swap. I see the GT350 and Mach 1 having one and it makes me think it's something needed for track use. If I'm overthinking it, I'm fine being called out on that also.

The Morimoto Ultimate kit is a little pricey, but seems like a safe way to get a rad / oil cooling upgrade on a non-PP car.

Brakes and associated cooling have tons of options -- not worried about that.

Are you planning to track your car ?
If so how, open track or W2w ?
For the street or even 20/25 minutes open track sessions, no need for diff or trans cooler
For the diff changing to 75/140 and wrapping the exhaust pipes around the diff is sufficient
Oil cooler: i installed the Harrop because i like the way it seat parallel to the ground and therefore do not send heat to the radiator
Do you have a regular gt or a pp/2/Bullit?
If regular gt, you have plenty of more pressing issues to address before tracking it
And obviously the most important factor is how fast are you?
Beginner, advanced? Racer ?
I see that your car is a regular gt. Therefore your main issues are going to be brakes and radiator way before anything else

 

[MrMike]

Are you planning to track your car ?
If so how, open track or W2w ?
For the street or even 20/25 minutes open track sessions, no need for diff or trans cooler
For the diff changing to 75/140 and wrapping the exhaust pipes around the diff is sufficient
Oil cooler: i installed the Harrop because i like the way it seat parallel to the ground and therefore do not send heat to the radiator
Do you have a regular gt or a pp/2/Bullit?
If regular gt, you have plenty of more pressing issues to address before tracking it
And obviously the most important factor is how fast are you?
Beginner, advanced? Racer ?

Open track, 20-25 mins normal sessions.

It's a regular GT -- what issues are you referring to that are more pressing? Suspension is FP track pack, brakes have tons of options and are easy.

I've never seen the Harrop oil cooler before but I like it, good suggestion!

Beginner, and I have no interest in being faster than intermediate. I have tracked bike before only, not car. Cooling is super simple on bikes by comparison, and I want to keep my Mustang for a very long time.


Edit: Just saw your edit. I'm planning to do radiator and oil cooler at the same time, was planning on the Mishimoto Ultimate bundle I noted in my OP.

 

[luc]

Open track, 20-25 mins normal sessions.

It's a regular GT -- what issues are you referring to that are more pressing? Suspension is FP track pack, brakes have tons of options and are easy.

I've never seen the Harrop oil cooler before but I like it, good suggestion!

Beginner, and I have no interest in being faster than intermediate. I have tracked bike before only, not car. Cooling is super simple on bikes by comparison, and I want to keep my Mustang for a very long time.


Edit: Just saw your edit. I'm planning to do radiator and oil cooler at the same time, was planning on the Mishimoto Ultimate bundle I noted in my OP.

If i was you I would stay away from Mishi and use the factory pp radiator and the Harrop cooler
1 of the benefit is that you get rid of the stock oil to water cooler
Ford track suspension is a great kit. It’s what i use
For brakes, go for the 6 pistons Brembo from the pp

 

[EFI]

Thanks man. I was looking at the MMR one if I had to go active for the rear diff, then I found their rear cover also: https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1447

I haven't heard good things performance wise about the MMR diff cover (looks and build is top notch however). The extra fluid hurts more than it helps, and the flat cover is actually a deterrent compared to the curved OEM piece. Check out youtube videos from Banks diesel when they tested some clear covers to see how the fluid works.

 

[EFI]

and the Harrop cooler

I don't quite get how that flat mounted cooler would get any airflow, especially sitting tight up against the undertray? If it was all open underneath I get, but 1) how does the airflow going through the lower grill make a 90* turn downwards to get through the cooler? And 2) where does it go after going through the cooler when it hits a literal wall in the underbelly pan?

 

[MrMike]

If i was you I would stay away from Mishi and use the factory pp radiator and the Harrop cooler
1 of the benefit is that you get rid of the stock oil to water cooler
Ford track suspension is a great kit. It’s what i use
For brakes, go for the 6 pistons Brembo from the pp

Is the PP radiator a straight swap with the existing hoses or does it require supporting changes like aftermarket rads? I know Ford Performance used to sell it as M-8005-M8 but they discontinued it. Basically can I just order a PP rad from Rock Auto and slap it in there?

I haven't heard good things performance wise about the MMR diff cover (looks and build is top notch however). The extra fluid hurts more than it helps, and the flat cover is actually a deterrent compared to the curved OEM piece. Check out youtube videos from Banks diesel when they tested some clear covers to see how the fluid works.

Yeah I saw those comments in the other thread where the FluiX was linked. Unfortunate. The fins underneath of the FluiX seem to really be what's needed for a passive cooler.

I don't quite get how that flat mounted cooler would get any airflow, especially sitting tight up against the undertray? If it was all open underneath I get, but 1) how does the airflow going through the lower grill make a 90* turn downwards to get through the cooler? And 2) where does it go after going through the cooler when it hits a literal wall in the underbelly pan?

I found pictures of it in another thread here just a min ago: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-hand-experiences.90359/page-30#post-2405221

I was kind of wondering the same thing, especially if you have a secondary (PP2-style) or larger splitter.

The Mishi design is self-explanatory but would pass some heat to the rad.

 

[EFI]

I found pictures of it in another thread here just a min ago: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-hand-experiences.90359/page-30#post-2405221

This picture right here tells it all. It literally sits on the underbelly, so there's nowhere for the airflow to go but backwards into the cooler. Almost like you should cut out a small rectangle in the underbelly to match the cooler and give the air a clear path to escape, but then not sure how that would affect overall airflow since there would be air under the car that might get drawn in and up or mess with the airflow going down through the cooler.

 

[luc]

I don't quite get how that flat mounted cooler would get any airflow, especially sitting tight up against the undertray? If it was all open underneath I get, but 1) how does the airflow going through the lower grill make a 90* turn downwards to get through the cooler? And 2) where does it go after going through the cooler when it hits a literal wall in the underbelly pan?

There is way more air going through the grill than can go through the radiator ( it’s why ducting the radiator increase cooling) therefore some of this air go downward and through the cooler
There is about a 2” gap between the bottom of the cooler and the undertray and the undertray is not sealed at all so no problem for the air to escape
I also believe that the air flowing underneath the car has a higher velocity than the air flowing through the grille and cooler and therefore there is a low pressure that suck the air escaping from the undertray
I have an oil temperature gauge with the sensor mounted in the out (from the engine) line to the cooler and the maximum temperature i ever saw, track day in 100* + weather, pushing the car on 305 squared nt01, was 260*

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