Track Time Limited due to High CHT

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Good to know. I know you have a couple but don’t know which ones. Do you have temp gauges for your transmission and diff too?

I have engine oil temp and trans temp. Stock diff temp sensor in the cluster.

Pressure is more critical and I’d be tempted to go with STACK for that but for temp glowshift seems fine to me.

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[NeverSatisfied]

dumb question, but what re you guys using to read oil temperature. I replaced the PP gauges in mt 2017 PP with the GT350 gauges (pressure and temp). I don't want to overthink it if those are sufficient. Temp reads 200* on street. I know I am going to add a transmission and diff gauge once I get around doing cooling system for those.

Glow shift is working ok for me. Even with the gt350 setup you’re displaying a calculated oil temp, not actual

 

[Biggsy]

Thanks gentlemen. When that time comes I’ll start with oil pressure and oil temp to replace the OEM gauges.

Will be going with the Vibrant performance plate since it’s already tapped for sensors. Just wish it was possible to replace the 180* thermostat with 200 or 212 since the car sees street time. I guess I’ll just do the blocker if need be

 

[nbjeeptj]

to get the -12 fittings to work. I had to get -10 mishimoto adaptors then -10 to -12 adaptors.

 

[Ewheels]

I know Vorshlag recommends -12 lines as well. Terry said in most racing applications, it's always -12 or even higher. Kind of surprised Setrab thinks -12 is overkill

 

[GTP]

In search of more airflow, I opened up the back end of the right side Velossatech Bigmouth.

I estimate the upper grille triangle ends are 12 sqIn each. I estimate the exit area of the opened BM is 5 sqIn. So not much gain.

I also moved my ambient air temp sensor in there.

 

[GTP]

DIY sensor port.

 

[GTP]

Okay, so here is my build.

BOM

• Note I kept OEM water/oil cooler
• Setrab Proline COM 52-12965-01 2-pass cooler, mounted horizontally, from Pegasus [photo 1]
• Setrab 180* sandwich plate, 90* fittings, from Pegasus [photo 2]
• Raceflux 12AN hose and fittings from Improved Racing
• Improved Racing rubber isolator set, installed through aluminum strips via 5/8" holes.
• 1/8” 1.5x1.5” aluminum angle 1/16" x 1.5" aluminum strip held to holes at front of subframe with ¼-20 nutserts and screws. Same across front cooler bosses.
• Aluminum strap to anchor forward cooler bosses [photo 3]
• ¼ and 8mm leveling washer sets to help achieve 5” uptilt to cooler [photo 4] Not needed after going to 1/16" alum strip bent to 5* angle, plus the rubber isolators.
• Screen mesh to cover vented belly pan, held with nutserts [photos 5 & 6]
• Stainless fasteners throughout

This project was extremely time consuming, and measured in days. You can take measurements all you want, but once you start fabricating the problems surface. Thankfully there was Ace Hardware a mile away with several aisles of fasteners to choose from. All the employees learned my name, I went in there so many times.

I chose this pricey cooler because it would just fit horizontally and had the highest BTU for its size. The 2-pass version put both ports on the same end for simpler plumbing.

My plan was always to retain the OEM water/air cooler. (Hopefully) that implies a 50-70kBTU cooler should be sufficient. A horizontal and low mount location should not interfere with the OEM stack of AC/trans/water coolers, short of robbing them of some air. The cooler can be re-mounted vertically and low in front of the AC in the future if need be.

The first thing I measured was for adequate clearance to install/remove the FL820s oil filter with the 1.3" thick sandwich plate in place. I anticipated 1/4" clearance, and it ended up with more than that. Whew!

The biggest challenge was finding room for the cooler. It was forward of the subframe, back of the bumper, and almost resting on the belly pan. The cooler’s elevation was level with the subframe but had to be tilted up to get the forward corners to squeeze in between the pan and bumper clip (actually the lower grille). This put a bind into the fasteners for the aluminum angle brace at the subframe and at the cooler bosses with the angle brace. So I ordered the two pairs of leveling washers to overcome this. [Photo 4]
I made the rear supporting bracket from 1/16" x 1.5" flat aluminum strip, and bent up at 5* at each end to get the cooler to tilt up at the same angle as the belly pan.

In the similar Harrop scheme, they claim that the air exiting the horizontal cooler goes out the rear edge of the belly pan under the engine. I was very skeptical about that. Their cooler is at a little higher elevation than mine.

I ventilated my belly pan below the cooler with a router, and a small router bit with oversize ball bearing. The pan’s topside ribs served as a guide for the bit. So now all the vertical ribs have 1/16” of horizontal rib around the opening profiles to stiffen them just a little. Then I secured screen mesh (normally intended for house soffit eaves) to the pan with 6-32 nutserts and SS button head screws. This should keep out everything larger than sand while on the street. [Photos 5 & 6]

I debated whether to force air into the cooler from above exclusively from the lower grille. At first my reasoning was that ram air entering the grille would be at higher pressure than the crossflow air under the pan, and hence that would be the path of airflow. Also, once the ram air hits the obstruction of the AC condenser it would find a less resistive path through the new cooler. I still believe this to be true.

But I decided to try forcing the lower grille air exclusively through the cooler. The downside is that only the upper grille air is available to flow through the original stack of coolers. Which is why I opened up every available hole in both grilles, again using the backside router technique. Grille pony is next!

The splash shield that lies on top of the pan can be repurposed as an air divider by lifting up its forward edge. This effectively seals off the new cooler from the other three. The leading edge can be tucked under the bumper absorber to hold it up in place. I simply had to cut a slit into the rubber part so that front vertical strap can pass through it. The downside is that I don’t think I can get the edge tucked under the absorber while replacing the bumper clip. For now, I install the shield/divider, pass the upper strap through it, and then push the absorber into place on the crash bar. Then I install the bumper and press hard against the absorber, hoping that the tabs click into place. I don’t hear any snapping sounds so I don’t know if they engage. But no biggie.

The shield’s rear rubber edge rests on top of the rear edge of the cooler, and I also have a bulb type rubber gasket to seal the rear side of the cooler to the angle bracket [Photo 7]. I will chase down other air leaks after I test all this at the track.

The other big challenge was finding room for, and selecting the best fittings for the sandwich plate. With the OEM cooler in place, things were very crowded around there. I struggled and struggled figuring out which angled fittings would route the hose around the PS wires, OEM cooler pipes, swaybar, pully belt, subframe, etc. Ultimately, I used two 90* elbows off the plate, angled just above the forward OEM water elbow, and over the subframe but under the swaybar. [Photo 8]

By choosing angled aluminum for the main rear bracket I retained the option of converting to a vertical configuration later. [Photo 9] For this the cooler has to be offset towards the passenger side so as to leave room for the driver side ports. Otherwise, the fittings there interfere with the end of the AC condenser. The 45-elbow simply gets swiveled forward to clear that in this arrangement. Hence the same hoses can be used for the vertical configuration.
This option not likely to be used, so long as the car remains cool for 30min sessions.

PHOTO 1

PHOTO 2

PHOTO 3 - Note the end holes were later re-drilled to 5/8" so that the grooved rubber isolators could be pushed through like panel grommets.

PHOTO 4


PHOTO 5

PHOTO 6

PHOTO 7

PHOTO 8

PHOTO 9

 

[GTP]

Seven 20-minute sessions at Gingerman yesterday. 82F ambient.
Mostly clear track, so I could always push 9/10 the entire session.

These temps remained steady:
228 CHT
260 Axle
225 Trans

 

[tosha]

So, I have removed my front bumper to start the ducting project, and need help with inspiration from you folks please - looking for some pictures of ducts that retain A/C condenser. I found some in the threads here, but most have condenser removed. How do you guys work around the stock plastic covers on the sides, keep or remove them? How is the space between condenser and radiator covered? Any advise on good mounting points for the frame for duct sheet metal? What abot the top? Any advise is very much appreciated

@NeverSatisfied , it seems that you have the closest setup to what I'm trying to do. I looked at your pictures of the setrab cooler ducting, but they don't show the main ducting. Do you mind sharing some more please, if you have good ones?

 

[bnightstar]

Seven 20-minute sessions at Gingerman yesterday. 82F ambient.
Mostly clear track, so I could always push 9/10 the entire session.

These temps remained steady:
228 CHT
260 Axle
225 Trans

To not go through the whole thread can you post full list of mods ?

 

[GTP]

To not go through the whole thread can you post full list of mods ?

I have wanted to start a build thread mainly to offer useful tips and tricks, and not to show off since my build is certainly not radical in any way.

These are the mods related to tracking my 2019 GT PP A10:

• No engine mods
• FP CC
• Injen CAI
• Remove engine cover
• Open up all grille cells, including space behind the pony badge
• Velossatech Bigmouth right and left intakes. Right side opened up for a little more air.
• Oil cooler mod as described above
• Euro 0W40 engine oil

• Heat wrap starter, trans lines, exhaust around diff, battery
• 75W140 diff oil

• GT350R sways F&R
• Spherical bearings at Front control arms, Rear LCA, and rear knuckle toe links
• CB005
• Steeda black diff pucks

• 1/2" longer studs
• 275-40/19 with PS4 square
• Hotpart camber plates
• Slotted front rotors
• ZL1 front and rear tow loops
• Bamberg air deflector vanes (see link in signature)

• 2nd set of headrests, with the foam cut to half thickness - provides more helmet room.
• ~1/2" washers added to front seat bolts to tip seat upward more

 

[GTP]

So, I have removed my front bumper to start the ducting project, and need help with inspiration from you folks please - looking for some pictures of ducts that retain A/C condenser. I found some in the threads here, but most have condenser removed. How do you guys work around the stock plastic covers on the sides, keep or remove them? How is the space between condenser and radiator covered? Any advise on good mounting points for the frame for duct sheet metal? What abot the top? Any advise is very much appreciated

@NeverSatisfied , it seems that you have the closest setup to what I'm trying to do. I looked at your pictures of the setrab cooler ducting, but they don't show the main ducting. Do you mind sharing some more please, if you have good ones?

Let's encourage @Scootsmcgreggor to provide us CAD drawings of his awesome bespoke shroud!

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/the-big-fat-track-car-cooling-thread.53695/post-3245490

 

[tosha]

Let's encourage @Scootsmcgreggor to provide us CAD drawings of his awesome bespoke shroud!

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/the-big-fat-track-car-cooling-thread.53695/post-3245490

It's really great, but I don't think he has a condenser, at least not on the pictures. My space in the front is nowhere as clean.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Mine is far from elegant but it’s pretty darn sealed up. Just a bunch of aluminum and 3M tape. I don’t have any totally finished product pictures but this should grove you an idea of my caveman solution… seems to be working

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