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Sandwich plate at the filter. Gauges are from Speedhut.

Does the Fluidyne rad require A/C delete? That means this kit will bolt up. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6642-M50D The cooling capacity of the included oil cooler is mid at best though. Unless I short-shift at 6k, I am hitting 260 oil temp in 10 minutes. I added actual gauges.

This is PR3Z-6881-C bolted to a Gen 3 block??

Hell yeah, awesome. Your trans holding up gives me faith lol. Yep... also way nicer having an aluminum pan. The GT500 valve covers were easy and look great. My run for the oil cooler will be short since I'm using a triple pass with both connectors on one side. Are you adapting the Dark Horse...

Catching up on your thread, this is amazing. Still original trans? Is that an OEM Gen 3 block or other changes? I really want to put the GT500 oil pan and pump on mine, but re-timing is intimidating and it's been running well. Currently working on adding an oil cooler.

This might be a hot take, but the high mileage items on the 4.0 are a pain and the early S197s autos are not great. Unless the car is otherwise extremely low mileage and in mint condition, the money would be better put towards a 2011-2017 V6.

Old bump, but I wanted to follow up. I ended up 3D printing this to mount gauges: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3067918 I used the SpeedHut 2-1/16" gauges.

Hey, sorry I haven't been on M6G in a while. Yes, I am still 100% satisfied with the swap. Just had the car at the track yesterday, and these are definitely better than the slippery sofas side-to-side. I apologize but I did not write down what codes came up. I reset them with Forscan.

I know this post is from a few days ago, but catching up the old CarPro sprayers triggered me. They were so bad.

HB1 in the above diagram is W719298-S439. I have swapped my driveshaft and replaced these bolts. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mikes-guard-gt.202816/#post-4062537

Definitely sounds more like an Ech2o competitor like you said. I think I prefer a concentrate more like Hero or ONR that doesn't have SiO2 in it. I still grab Ech2o for door jambs and stuff like that, but once this bottle's out will probably just stick to Hero.

It sounds like you did fine applying the coating. IMO neither C5 nor ADS Wheel are complicated or difficult to apply. The easiest place to make a mistake is missing or not leveling in small divots or grooves. Just going over areas like that an extra time when applying and buffing is the easiest...

I assume you’re referring to the recommended extra buffing step on Reload? It didn’t really feel like a big lift because I go over the panel again while I’m drying anyway. I’ll grab a bigger bottle of Reload on BF then. A little does go a really long way with it though!

Yes. The Ecoboost did not change until the S650 in 2024. I am referring to any standard Ecoboost not the HPP version with the larger turbo. I'd suggest getting a 2021+ motor or at least one with the newer designed head gasket.

I've used Hero as both a clay lube and a quick detailer. Seems to have tons of lubricity and will last a long time for those purposes. I bet it works great for rinseless with how slick it is also. I am curious how ADS Ceramic compares to CarPro Reload 2.0 if used as a drying aid. Last wash on...

They are 12Nm + 35 degrees Fuel Rail is 10Nm + 90 degrees

Here is mine on the same side for comparison. Maybe I'm missing something in your pic, but I just see a bit of wear on the camshaft. Your cam phasers aren't looking so great though.

I agree. I would dump them. I rabbit holed this because I put S650 seats on my S550. I get wanting a somewhat unique seat choice. Just don't forget that your time has value also.

The two larger plastic harness like connectors you posted would have wires on the back if they were cut. There are lots of the harnesses on eBay. I personally bought a fully intact seat bottom to make sure I was getting everything I needed. The easiest way to avoid this is just to make sure the...